AX SHARPENING WITH POWER TOOLS

SC T100 said:
I like, prefer, and use files/stones most often. However, I have a few heads right now (Craftsman boy's axe, and a no-name of unknown quality) that I simply cant file no matter which ones I use. The heads are just too hard and I can't get the file to bite unfortunately. My files are vintage us Nicholsons and a big Heller that's never really let me down until now. It may getting dull unfortunatley :(. I managed to file the Craftsman initially, but only to get an "okay" profile on it more suited to splitting. It has a really nice high centerline, so to really get it to be a nice thin chopper, I think I'm going to need to grab the angle grinder and 36-grit flap disk to thin it out. I won't be near the edge and will keep it cool with water and a rag. (Full disclosure, I have blued a thin wire edge on an axe a while back with the flap disk when I wasn't being careful). I didn't ruin the temper of the edge itself, but it can happen for sure.

I've even tried stones...the Lansk Heavy Duty and the Baryonyx American Mutt coarse stones. They work, but slowly. It would takes hours and hours to get to where I want the head with the stones alone. My last resort is now the angle grinder int he interest of effort required. The axe should hold an excellent edge though based on this!
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Those really hard axes will ruin a file for sure. The traditional sand stone grinding wheels are just the ticket for those heads.

I have a big wavy Heller that was just a rocking good file but mine is starting to go also. Just don't come across them everyday. Much sadness....
 
Square_peg said:
When I have a bunch of pulaskis to sharpen for our local trail crew I reach for the angle grinder and flap discs. Like other powered methods you don't have to ruin temper if you're careful - and I am. You can power thru a pile of pulaskis in no time. If we didn't use power tools it just wouldn't get done.

Pile_o_Pulaskis.JPG
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100% agree. And that's awesome.
 
I would think that multiple factors come into play when describing using wire wheels. RPM on the motor is one, but that is only the speed of the arbor. Some other factors that immediately come to mind that might also be considered:
  • The speed of the wheel at at the point of contact (eg surface feet per minute). SFPM increases with the radius.
  • The stiffness and density of the wire.
  • The resistance of the material being taken off.
  • The power of the motor.
My two cents.


Bob
 
Square_peg said:
Hey, SC T100, what does your Craftsman look like? Got a picture?
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I do! But I currently don't have a way to post it since Photobucket nuked hosting, for which I then nuked my Photobucket account. I'll be setting up a new account with Flickr or Imgur soon, so I'll throw a pic up soon.
 
garry3 said:
Those really hard axes will ruin a file for sure. The traditional sand stone grinding wheels are just the ticket for those heads.

I have a big wavy Heller that was just a rocking good file but mine is starting to go also. Just don't come across them everyday. Much sadness....
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Agreed...I wish I had one of those big, water-slicked grinding wheels on a treadle (is that the right word?). I'd happily take the time with that.

And my Heller has taken down some seriously good steel...a huge Sager, a few hard Plumbs, an old Kelly, some hatchets, and a couple of Councils. It's starting to go, but it's such a nice file I may have to send it off to be sharpened. I think there's a company in California that does for a fee by the inch. It's an acid-etch process if I remember correctly. I've been seriously contemplating sending off my whole lot of vintage US files to be sharpened. I have put them in vinegar for a light "honing" but I think it's time for the pros to handle them.
 
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SC T100 said:
And my Heller has taken down some seriously good steel...a huge Sager, a few Plumbs, some hatchets, and a couple of Councils. It's starting to go, but it's such a nice file I may have to send it off to be sharpened. I think there's a company in California that does for a fee by the inch. It's an acid-etch process if I remember correctly. I've been seriously contemplating sending off my whole lot of vintage US files to be sharpened. I have put them in vinegar for a light "honing" but I think it's time for the pros to handle them.
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That service does work. It restores them to almost new. Alex Weygers described doing this in the home shop with battery acid. I'm curious if vinegar could do the trick.
 
Square_peg said:
Have you soaked a file? For how long and with what result?
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I acid etched a wood rasp once, I had some nitric acid that I wanted to make into ferric nitrate for staining maple. Tried some old chainsaw files first for several hours or a day, and pretty well dissolved them (this solution was around 15% or a bit more as I remember). So I soaked the rasp for maybe 30 minutes, worked really well.
 
I've refrained from dropping any of my older vintage files in vinegar. Maybe I need some fresh vinegar before I start though. But then again I'm also the guy that needed a science lesson to convince me I didn't almost ruin a head by leaving it in vinegar too long. :oops:
 
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