Axe Head patterns for chopping

I hope this isn't sacrilegious, but I was thinking about buying a head and grinding down the heel and toe. What do you think?
 
I'll give that some thought. I am a user not a collector. "Nice" to me means useful. I can't fall (fell?) a tree where I live. That lets out green wood, so I really have no use it for. Maybe I'll haft it and see how she works. Maybe I'll put it back on EBay where I got it. I do appreciate everybody's advice. I didn't realize it had over a 5" bit. If I had, I would have added that to my post when I asked for advice. I saw "Legitimus" and got all excited. I think that's why the saying is "measure twice, cut once".
 
FYI, I explained the situation to the seller on EBay, groberts1. He said "no problem", and immediately refunded my money. He is now on my EBay "watch this seller" list, and I'm going to make an effort to buy from him in the future. The search goes on for a narrow bit.
 
vcbvcbvcb said:
FYI, I explained the situation to the seller on EBay, groberts1. He said "no problem", and immediately refunded my money. He is now on my EBay "watch this seller" list, and I'm going to make an effort to buy from him in the future. The search goes on for a narrow bit.
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Most sellers are very reasonable if you are up front and honest. Be sure to look out for emails or messages from eBay. I recall a similar situation where I wasn't refunded fees for the sale until the seller took some action to confirm the sale was cancelled.

What in the logic of finding a narrow bit, I'm curious? I'm guessing it was recommend in the other thread. My assumption is that the logic behind it is better penitration in hard seasoned woods, but this is the first I've heard of this concept.
 
Square_Peg recommended it. More psi on the edge. Makes sense to me. I guess an extreme example would be a spike on a tomahawk will penetrate much deeper than the blade.
 
The next suspect. It's one of the cheaper one and in a little rougher shape than most, so I wouldn't be ruining a collector's piece. It's bits are 4 3/8, 4.5 LBS, 11" long. I'm thinking about grinding it into a Puget Sound pattern. I figure I could get it down to 3 3/8".

 
Operator1975 said:
I would get a saw and get after it.
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If this response goes all the way back to the thread explanation of reducing the size of windfall (or otherwise) logs so as to be able to carry them out of the bush then handsaw (or even economy chainsaw) is the only real way to go. A lot faster and wastes much less wood. Old bucksaws are hardly 'new fangled' and displaced axes, for cutting to length, already 125 years ago.
 
The theory makes sense, its basic physics. The same force spread over a smaller area will result in a greater amount of force over a lesser area. The problem I see is that you are basically working with two axis here the distance between heal and toe and the thickness of the bit. Before modifying a vintage axe, I would suggest you work on filing your bit for a thin smooth transition into the cheeks. I can attest to how much this can affect an axes ability to chop. One of the only new axes I purchased came with a nice profile but a thick dull bit. As I worked the bit profile down over time I could feel and see a noticeable difference in how it chopped. I would start here with whatever axe you pick. Either way you will want good steel, well tempered and a nice thin bit with a very sharp edge.
 
300six, and Operator, Yes, battery is allowed. Remember, I'm doing this for firewood and axercise too. Next trip I'm taking an axe, my silky katanaboy saw (20") and my brother's chain saw. I'll buck with the axe until I'm finished sweating, then I'll use whichever saw appeals to me. I'm not dependant on the axe, but I don't want to use a design that simply bounces off hardwood, which is what happened last time. My goal is to use an ideal axe for bucking + a hand saw + a chainsaw.
 
Hacked, will do. I won't have the new bigger axe by next trip, so I'll thin down my Husqvarna multipurpose axe and give it a shot. The limiting factor there is the 26" length and 2 pound head.
 
Your issue wont be with the axe, but with the wood and thats why everyone is steering you away from the axe and towards the saw. If you are allowed to take a chainsaw then the discussion is over. Get after it.
 
Any way for you to post a photogragh of the bit on the axe you were using? That and the angle that the axe strikes the wood are likely to make a bigger difference than the pattern of axe IMO. I still process wood with an axe for my firepit simply for fun and for exercise so I understand where you are coming from. It's not the most efficient method but it gives me an excuse to use the axes I've restored and is a workout al the same. At times it has been seasoned hardwood and while it takes more effort to get through I've never had an issue of the axe bouncing off. The only other thing that comes to mind is there not being support under the timber you are working on. If the tree bounces when you step on it it for example, the axe will not be near as effective.
 
Yes, I'll post both of them tonight. I know what you mean about the log bouncing. It drives me nuts to watch a YouTube video wherein someone is demonstrating the chopping capability of an axe or hatchet on a branch that's bouncing up and down an inch every time they hit it. The log was solid on the ground and about 12" in dia, 15' long and very very heavy.
 
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