Axe Head patterns for chopping

vcbvcbvcb said:
Can anybody interpret this?

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SAGER CHEMICAL PROCESS
WARRANTED
(YEAR)

based on this example, showing 1918 as the year:
$_1.JPG
 
These axes of yours appear to be plenty sharp. Is there a chance we're overlooking something obvious. Striking at any log cross grain at 90 degrees is gonna bounce whatever you use. You've gotta pretend to be a beaver of sorts and strike oblique (say 30 degrees off vertical) in order to get axes to bite. Even with Ironwood (which is known to dull axes very quickly) striking at 30-45 degrees off vertical will get you lots of penetration with any sharp axe.
 
OK, who knew? I was pretty close to 90 deg. Do you have an opinion of the last head? I'm thinking about buying it. Thanks
 
You mean that dent in the center of the one cheek? Not a problem. I think it's an impression from the clamp that held the axe in a grinder. I lot of old axes have them, sometimes in different shapes.
 
Thank you all for the advice. I won the auction. Now the proud owner of a 3 3/4 LB sager Chemical Puget Sound ax head. Got a good deal too, I think.

 
Thanks for the Puget Sound suggestion, I'd never heard of them until you mentioned it. It has 3 1/4" bits, which are the narrowest I could find. Now to decide on a handle length. I have only hafted one hatchet, which I did very slowly and it came out pretty good. The handle came from handle house. I was thinking of making one from scratch out of oak, but it's soooo heavy. Thanks again.
 
That should do well for you. If you have a vise I recommend that you sharpen it before hanging it. If you don't have a vise then hang it first and clamp it to your bench or table for filiing and sharpening.
 
Square_peg said:
Strike at 45°.

Read this. Some excellent basic axe knowledge.

http://cedarriverforge.com/Photo-index/axephotos/Woodsmanship.pdf
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That book is a blast from the past! I need to find or make some of those "new" Michigan style wedges. Thanks for posting, I looked for print copies but no luck, may try to print out. These would be great to hand out to the youngsters, much more practical information than the tripe I see peddled as survival or bushcraft these days!
 
vcbvcbvcb said:
Thanks for the Puget Sound suggestion, I'd never heard of them until you mentioned it. It has 3 1/4" bits, which are the narrowest I could find. Now to decide on a handle length. I have only hafted one hatchet, which I did very slowly and it came out pretty good. The handle came from handle house. I was thinking of making one from scratch out of oak, but it's soooo heavy. Thanks again.
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Oak is not as heavy as hickory, almost, but not quite.
 
Hum, what I have is "Scrub Oak". Does that work? BTW, I need an EBay support group. I just bought another ax/hatchet hybrid. Help, I need to stop!!!
 
vcbvcbvcb said:
Hum, what I have is "Scrub Oak". Does that work? BTW, I need an EBay support group. I just bought another ax/hatchet hybrid. Help, I need to stop!!!
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What does this look like an AA meeting? So long as you don't try to buy any of the axes I'm trying to buy I'm good with your new found addiction.
 
Good consultant, lousy sponsor, suspect enabler. I just bought a Rixford with a 2 1/2 LB head and 18" handle. I've searched and can't find any other 2 1/2 pound rid heads. Know anything about Rixford?
 
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