Axe? Please educate me

[Murphjd25]

I would definitely be interested in a full size axe or splitting maul. Always got wood to split around here. Subscribed.

 

[HKP7K3]

I would love a small camp axe or easy to carry hatchet for hiking in D3V. A small, thin profile hatchet seems to really fit the strengths of D3V. I was thinking along the lines of the RMJ Bushcrafter which is all steel with handle scales. I think Lorien and CPK could hit something like this out of the park.

 

[HKP7K3]

Like this!

 

[never.truly.lost]

Here is my current most user friendly general purpose camp axe; a 2lb Plumb with great profile hung on a Gransfors Scandi Forest Axe haft.
Nice and narrow profile on the handle (FK for reference*)

 

[Lorien]

I'd like to design an axe with a 2lb head that weighs 1.5lb

 

[Grenock]

I'd like to design an axe with a 2lb head that weighs 1.5lb

They already make those.......

 

[WValtakis]

I'd like to design an axe with a 2lb head that weighs 1.5lb

That sounds like witchcraft that would need a little help from Mecha ...

 

[Lorien]

That sounds like witchcraft that would need a little help from Mecha ...

well, actually...there is an unrelated project in the works...

 

[ronnie hood]

Hmmmm.
With the way this is headed call it the cliché

 

[Meridian]

Something similiar to this style is great for wood working and camp work.
https://www.helkonorthamerica.com/store/p83/Rheinland_Pack_Axe.html

I think a bearded axe head would be great as well, as it would increase edge length.
I am really looking forward to see what this project turns out if it materializes.

 

[TRfromMT]

So, I've been wondering if a haft could be machined from micarta. Wood takes maintenance and as a natural material is subject to quite a bit of variability. Wood that meets CPK standards will be hard to come by.

Micarta on the other hand...

Imagine ECAM in an axe handle, or a rubber or ebonite inlaid version.

 

[JustinFournier]

So, I've been wondering if a haft could be machined from micarta. Wood takes maintenance and as a natural material is subject to quite a bit of variability. Wood that meets CPK standards will be hard to come by.

Micarta on the other hand...

Imagine ECAM in an axe handle, or a rubber or ebonite inlaid version.

We need a new source of that micarta.

 

[Mike Pierson]

The subject came up about a CPK axe. Honestly, it sounds like fun.


Would some of you guys educate me on the subject matter and perhaps point me in the right direction? What makes a good axe? What makes a bad axe? What kind or kinds should I make?

Heavy,
my heaviest axe gets used The Most.
I use & own over 10 axes, but the last axe I bought is my most used axe -
it gets used hard everyday. I would buy another but it is not cheap...
It has a slightly shorter handle than all my dbl bits, and the head alone is over 4.5 lbs.
The weight does ALL the work for me.
This Axe has a robust cutting angle/edge and has thin cheeks.
I am splitting wood & not cutting down trees, all my wood to be split is dried for over 1 year.
It would be hard to make a better axe than the ARVIKA, but I would be in for "one more" if it is designed similarly.
Don't need a hatchet, but a good axe- yes!
D3V? Oh hell yes!
Hope this helps!
http://hultsbruk1697.se/products/the-arvika-5-star-racing-axe/

 

[madcap_magician]

I would love a small camp axe or easy to carry hatchet for hiking in D3V. A small, thin profile hatchet seems to really fit the strengths of D3V. I was thinking along the lines of the RMJ Bushcrafter which is all steel with handle scales. I think Lorien and CPK could hit something like this out of the park.

I agree with this, although in my case it'd be more like a small crash axe like a Jenny Wren or something like that. But RMJ-style construction with a full-tang axe and micarta or G10 scales seems best fitted to Nathan's manufacturing process, rather than trying to source or manufacture traditional axe handles.

 

[Fonedork]

I like hatchet

 

[outlandish710]

race axes look great.

they're not suited for general work / occasional abuse but there are other axes with similar patterns, i.e. short blade, hollowed cheeks and/or or banana pattern grind:
Kelly Axe

Kentucky pattern (banana)

extreme example of hollow cheeks

hacha urnieta from Basque country. note hollowed cheeks and general light concave profile. this pattern is supposed to be superior for hardwood felling.

I have a few german pattern axes. They have long, front-heavy bits. the extra reach is nice it doesn't make up for for worse ergonomics / stability.
Regarding the steel and the pattern, the thinner you can get that axe, the better. Just copying a pre-existing pattern and leaving it at same thickness would be boring. 3V, L6, 52100/AEB-L, high nickel german steels (50NiCr13 or similar) maybe. Or something with both nickel and vanadium, idk. Abrasion resistance shouldn't matter much. There's abrasive dirt/sand in the bark of some trees but it's easier to just remove it before chopping.

 

[HKP7K3]

I'd like to design an axe with a 2lb head that weighs 1.5lb

Easy. Fill the head and handle with helium!

 

[Lorien]

hacha urnieta from Basque country. note hollowed cheeks and general light concave profile. this pattern is supposed to be superior for hardwood felling.

boing!

 

[Brummie]

I'm no expert on axes, but one thing I don't like are in-betweeny axes like the GB Small Forest Axe. By which I mean, axes that are too long / heavy for accurate one-handed use (at least for me), but not long / heavy enough to really benefit from a full 2-handed swing. I know lots of people love the Small Forest Axe, but personally, I'd rather go from a hawk or hatchet to something at least the size of a the Scandinavian Forest Axe.

 

[Mecha]

boing!

My thoughts exactly.