BAD first impressions

Nice work, HD. I always look forward to your posts. The comparisons, observations and questions regarding the edges and steel are great. I have a time with certain knives' edges and wonder how it is that they work out so well for others - you can shave hair with them but they make you work a little harder (than other knives) cutting wood. There are some that are obvious but others not always so much so.
 
my INFI stays sharp longer than my high carbon tool steels.

i use a sharpmaker.

i'm sure someday busse will come out with a knife that has a scandi grind just for all the bushcrafters out here.he's running out of designs so it has to happen someday.

he showed us a quick look at a busse nesmuk proto but i'm still waiting on it
 
It's the geometry that cuts, not the steel. The steel is purchased that can be optimized for the geometry. I can't remember who said that first - I think it was Cliff, but he was right...

The primary grind on the BAD would be less than the Scandi, but the secondary bevel would be more, at least on mine they are. What I have done on my knives is to either send them to Tom Krein for a high hollow grind to make it easy to put a smaller edge bevel on, or thin the edge bevel on my edgepro or bench stones. I usually send the really hard to grind steel (D2, ZDP, etc) off to Krein, but INFI I usually thin out myself. By thinning myself, I retain all of the strength of the primary grind, and still get great cutting efficiency. INFI can take a thinner edge, and it retains it longer as well than a thicker edge. It shouldn't be hard to get past the Scandi grind in terms of cutting efficiency once the secondary bevel gets as thin or thinner.

I also find a polished edge works very well on INFI also.
 
sodak said:
I usually send the really hard to grind steel (D2, ZDP, etc) off to Krein, but INFI I usually thin out myself. By thinning myself, I retain all of the strength of the primary grind, and still get great cutting efficiency. INFI can take a thinner edge, and it retains it longer as well than a thicker edge. It shouldn't be hard to get past the Scandi grind in terms of cutting efficiency once the secondary bevel gets as thin or thinner.

I also find a polished edge works very well on INFI also.
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I've been working on it myself:thumbup:

As much as Busse's cost compared to similar sized knives I can't justify spending more to have a better working edge put on them. Most of the Bark Rivers I have bought came with a very "working" edge geometry on them and the Koster Bushcraft which is also out of very hard steel (3v) came sharp. I did have to do a lot of work on my Fallkniven F1 to get it right but it was less than half the cost of the Busse.

I got it really polished out now but I haven't tried it out again yet. But honestly I have never had any knife with the secondary V grind that cut as well as a scandi or convex no matter how much I worked on it.

Doesn't mean it's a bad knife mind you, just means it's more suited for jobs that edge toughness (like cutting wood with dirt on it or boning some meat) is more of a factor than cutting efficiency.
 
Convex any Busse and performance improves by 100%. They will hold polished edges just fine. Busse is starting to come out with knives that are already convexed. And its about time.
 
Nice review, thanks for that.

The BAD is considerably harder than other Busses, so should keep its edge longer in wood. Might also be more of a pain to sharpen. Wish I had one to find out...

It might also not be wise to try cutting concrete blocks with it, due to that hardness, although Busse will still honour the warranty no matter.

I agree, as do many Busse owners, about the choil on smaller knives. I like the knife so much though that I'll put up with it.

I've got a full-height grind AD (better than the usual sabre-grind), and have thinned the edge out a fair bit; still flat though. I did it with a lansky set followed by diamond pastes and stropping. It's seriously hair-popping and easily takes the tops of hairs off on courser hairy areas(!)

I've a thread on it here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=512223

It does lose a little of it's 'pop' after a fair bit of whittling in hard wood, but even then still shaves and comes back to full pop with just a few strokes on a loaded strop. I find it keeps its edge favourably compared to my F1, RSK and Barkies.

I would like to see what it would perform like with a much thinner profile. I too have knives that tend to out perform it (a little) in some uses simply due to having a full, thin convex. I really would like to get hold of a BAD and convex it to the edge.

A lot of Busse owners who actually use them thin the edges or convex them. It makes a *big* difference - it's the first thing I do every time.

I also thinned the edge of my Heavy Heart Fusion Steel Heart a lot and polished it to hair-popping. After chopping and batoning a lot of nasty, hard and knotty firewood (about 20 logs up to 6" thick and 3' long initially) it could still shave, albeit a bit roughly. Again, after 30 seconds on the strop, it was back to full sharpness.
 
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hollowdweller said:
I've been working on it myself:thumbup:

As much as Busse's cost compared to similar sized knives I can't justify spending more to have a better working edge put on them. Most of the Bark Rivers I have bought came with a very "working" edge geometry on them and the Koster Bushcraft which is also out of very hard steel (3v) came sharp. I did have to do a lot of work on my Fallkniven F1 to get it right but it was less than half the cost of the Busse.

I got it really polished out now but I haven't tried it out again yet. But honestly I have never had any knife with the secondary V grind that cut as well as a scandi or convex no matter how much I worked on it.

Doesn't mean it's a bad knife mind you, just means it's more suited for jobs that edge toughness (like cutting wood with dirt on it or boning some meat) is more of a factor than cutting efficiency.
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3V is a tough steel to beat, no pun intended. It's one of my favorites also.

As for the grinds, I like the V grinds simply because I'm good at them, but also, with a narrow primary grind, I find there's less binding. I do find, however, it's often a personal thing, so YMMV, as always. A lot of people do enjoy the scandis and convexed, but I can't be of any help evaluating INFI with a convexed grind. I'd be very interested in your impressions once you get it done. I think 3V is also good at both toughness and edge retention, if you ever get them close in geometry, I'd love to see what your thoughts are comparing them in both areas. :thumbup:
 
When you have a rounded plunge like the one on that AD you have to have a choil so you can't see the 1/2" of wasted edge that it causes.

I've never liked the look of the AD. I love my GW, and on our last campout my Battle Mistress got used for splitting more than the axe did.
 
Fiddleback said:
When you have a rounded plunge like the one on that AD you have to have a choil so you can't see the 1/2" of wasted edge that it causes.

I've never liked the look of the AD. I love my GW, and on our last campout my Battle Mistress got used for splitting more than the axe did.
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I went out and tried the convexed Game Warden also. My camera battery is charging right now I'll post some pics later but I'd agree with you FB the Game Warden seems to be the better blade in a lot of ways. On mine the handle is larger and more rounded than on the BAD.

The GW I have is (I think) .200 and the BAD is 1/8"?? Wondering if all Busse slabs are the same size and the thinner the steel the thinner the handle??

Anyway with the BAD it is not near as comfortable as the fat and rounded handle on the GW.

The convexed GW cut somewhere between the Northstar and the BAD. No hand cramping. Part is the fatter handle and part is the smaller choil so you have more leverage. With the BAD you have to cut farther out the blade which pushes the knife backward more if anyone can understand what I mean:confused:
 
I get ya HD. Gotta few shots of the .200 GW? Particularly the spine? Im thinking mine is thinner. Im not sure on its thickness. I will snap some pics.:thumbup:
 
here it is next to my compass for scale
101_1346.jpg

spine
101_1347.jpg

in hand
101_1350.jpg

for kicks:D
101_1351.jpg
 
Hollowdweller,

How well does the knife do on a firesteel. My GW's spine sucks bad at getting a spark from a firesteel :thumbdn:
 
I think thats due to the structure of INFI. High carbon steels throw the best sparks. I havent even tried my GW, but the SAR5 I had wouldnt throw a spark for nothin.
 
you should have tested an EXTREEEME RATIO!.

I think, for all intents and purposes, all of your tested knives do just about what a knife that size is expected to.
 
busse sure does make convex grinds if im not mistaken its the competition models. You can also convex it yourself. I have many busses and other knives and i prefer the busse. Some knives might have a better edge but the busse will outlive them easily. I doubt those other 2 knives could withstand what the Infi steel can. But most busses are meant for hard work
 
Fallons Knives said:
Some knives might have a better edge but the busse will outlive them easily. I doubt those other 2 knives could withstand what the Infi steel can. But most busses are meant for hard work
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Right. Depending on what the definition of "hard work " is:thumbup:

If it is digging, or pounding thru stuff, or whacking deer pelvis bones I'd go for the Busse.:thumbup:

If the work involved cutting efficiency and cutting for a long time without discomfort like food prep, or building a shelter, or whittling limbs in half then I'd choose the ones the cut better and are more comfortable:thumbup:
 
Excellent review Sir!
If it helps, I have not had a Busse yet that did not receive an almost immediate reprofiling.

And, When I have done that their cutting efficeincy has doubled for me - but my experience is limited to a BATAC & a Basic.

It was work though to get them down there - but worth it.
I'm with you, not enough $ or patience to send to someone else to re-profile it for me - just did it myself - a lot more fun that way anyhow :thumbup:

Again, great review, would love to hear how it works going forward.

sp
 
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