Bark River Bravo 1 - Very Torn Now.... HELP!

[FMAKNut]

In the pic the tip looks a bit above handle. I wonder if that had anything to do with the breakage. Just something to note aside that it's a huge ol' log. Sometimes bad technique lends to bad results.

 

[Rupestris]

Back to the OP, Buy the B-1. If you don't like it you can sell it for just about what you paid for it. I'm sure someone would be happy to trade you for an F1.

That's part of the beauty of this community. I've never been stuck with something I regret buying. Even if you take a loss, its minimal and worth the couple dollars to experience a particular model for ones self.

Buy a Bravo-1. The one I have is a keeper. I suspect yours will be too.

Chris

 

[Brian Sargent]

There's a video of a trail master breaking in the same way, at the same spot. Definite design flaw.

I don't know what you're trying to tell me about the test you're posted. I know that bussekin are the best and toughest. That's why my next knife will be a busse. I don't have a need right now though, I'm a user, not a collector. I'd have gotten one instead of the fallkniven, but I didn't want to wait weeks for the right model to be available.

You said the skeleton tang didn't seem much stronger than a stick tang and didn't buy the Bravo1 because of it.

This was before the D-test was out. But what put me off was the tang:So much material is removed inside the handle that it looks not much stronger than a stick tang. So I decided to get a Fallkniven A1 instead and haven't looked back.

So you bought a stick tang any way and then post a picture of one breaking. Now you are saying the Cold Steel has a design flaw because of that picture.

My point is that a skeleton tang and a stick tang are strong enough.

 

[Brian Sargent]

There's a video of a trail master breaking in the same way, at the same spot.

Can I get a link please.

 

[wildmike]

Those reviews from Noss are BS!

You shouldn't chop with a 4" blade anyway. Wrong technique for the tool. Use a baton instead and you'll have no problem. plus you'll use far less energy. With less chance of injury.

I served in USMC First Force Recon. We often tested equipment form many different makers and suppliers, of all types. We also tested new techniques for performing hazardous tasks that the brass wanted us to try out. It isn't a stretch at all to believe a knife similar to the Bravo 1 was tested. Me I prefer a 5" blade so I picked me up one of the Scagel hunters they are making for KSF.

I have no doubts the knife will do all i ask of it.

I also have a standard F1 and it is a tremendous knife for the money.

 

[michaelm466]

I'd keep the pre-order, one advantage of BRKT over Fallkniven is the lifetime warranty vs a 2 year warranty. As far as the "test" a one sample test is like meeting one person from a country and then making generalizations about the entire culture on that one experience. It's not statistically relevant or scientific, no control for force or angle of the hits etc. I'd put about as much stock in it as one experience from one person on here who said don't get it broke on me, compared to the dozens that recommend it, and no more just because he video taped it.

 

[penetrator]

You said the skeleton tang didn't seem much stronger than a stick tang and didn't buy the Bravo1 because of it.



So you bought a stick tang any way and then post a picture of one breaking. Now you are saying the Cold Steel has a design flaw because of that picture.

My point is that a skeleton tang and a stick tang are strong enough.

Are you implying the Fallkniven A1 has a stick tang? Dude. This is a stick tang:

This is the A1 tang:

(Actually the F1 but you get the idea.)

Here's the trail master video:

[youtube]KmO0XSWhV04[/youtube]

You might wanna turn down your volume.

 

[FMAKNut]

I'd keep the pre-order, one advantage of BRKT over Fallkniven is the lifetime warranty vs a 2 year warranty. As far as the "test" a one sample test is like meeting one person from a country and then making generalizations about the entire culture on that one experience. It's not statistically relevant or scientific, no control for force or angle of the hits etc. I'd put about as much stock in it as one experience from one person on here who said don't get it broke on me, compared to the dozens that recommend it, and no more just because he video taped it.

I like your analogy. Another thing to add is that where do you send a Fallkniven for warranty repair? If you are in the US, you'll end up shipping it international. Tell me if I'm wrong, but that's my understanding with Fallkniven.

 

[Brian Sargent]

Are you implying the Fallkniven A1 has a stick tang? Dude. This is a stick tang:

This is the A1 tang:

(Actually the F1 but you get the idea.)

Here's the trail master video:

[youtube]KmO0XSWhV04[/youtube]

You might wanna turn down your volume.

Ok it's more substantial than a true stick tang .... so what is it called actually?

Hard to tell from your tiny picture of the wrong knife how big it actually is.

The A1 is shaped exactly the same?

Your video proves want happens when someone uses the wrong tool for the job.

That is a huge log and a huge baton ... he can barley hold the baton.

He'd be wailing for awhile on that even with a nmfbm.

 

[Brian Sargent]

I like your analogy. Another thing to add is that where do you send a Fallkniven for warranty repair? If you are in the US, you'll end up shipping it international. Tell me if I'm wrong, but that's my understanding with Fallkniven.

True.

The Bark River warranty is amazing.

 

[penetrator]

Finally got the big picture to load:

The tang is the same on all the fallknivens. Basically the outline of the handle minus .2" or so. With radiused corners instead of 90 degree stress risers.

And you can make excuses all you want for knives breaking ... I'd rather have a knife that I haven't seen broken yet. I searched for some time, and I have not found pics or even reports of a Fallkniven failing. Same for Busse. So that's what I'm going by.

Edit: as for the warranty thing, my view is echoed by the cinema classic, Tommy Boy:

Ted Nelson, Customer But why do they put a guarantee on the box?
Tommy: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of shit. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.

 

[FMAKNut]

Tell me if I'm wrong: Shouldn't the baton strikes start centered above the area of entry until the blade is flush in the wood?

 

[Rupestris]

Your video proves want happens when someone uses the wrong tool for the job.

That is a huge log and a huge baton ... he can barley hold the baton.

He'd be wailing for awhile on that even with a nmfbm.

I gotta agree. I'm not a huge fan of battoning anything but I've done it. I've used a Mora Clipper with success but I know the limitations and wasn't trying to split a log that size with a baton that size.

He'd have been better off using a smaller baton to split the piece he had in his right hand. Going at the center of that 5"+ log is more than I would have attempted.

 

[Ankerson]

Tell me if I'm wrong: Shouldn't the baton strikes start centered above the area of entry until the blade is flush in the wood?

Yes and there should be plenty of blade on both sides of the wood for the baton to strike, if not then the wood is too thick for the blade.

 

[FMAKNut]

Finally got the big picture to load:

Edit: as for the warranty thing, my view is echoed by the cinema classic, Tommy Boy:

Ted Nelson, Customer But why do they put a guarantee on the box?
Tommy: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of shit. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.

That's one view to have, but if a company continuously failed and had a good warranty like BRKT's, would they still be in business?

 

[kingsqueak]

A dumb question I suppose.

Why the obsession with splitting such large logs?

I'm no lumberjack, but the only wood I've split over the years was to make it fit in a stove or fireplace better and to ease the stacking of it all to get air around it and season it.

I'm overlooking something here I think, but none of that really applies for a survival fire eh?

When I've been camping I just throw whatever on the fire, be it a yule log sized chunk or not...if it's dry, it burned. Hell with some of my fires, it burned anyway.

 

[FMAKNut]

A dumb question I suppose.

Why the obsession with splitting such large logs?

I'm no lumberjack, but the only wood I've split over the years was to make it fit in a stove or fireplace better and to ease the stacking of it all to get air around it and season it.

I'm overlooking something here I think, but none of that really applies for a survival fire eh?

When I've been camping I just throw whatever on the fire, be it a yule log sized chunk or not...if it's dry, it burned. Hell with some of my fires, it burned anyway.

Because when putting knives through animals, the results seem to always be the same. When put through wood, the results seem to vary more. :foot:

 

[Rupestris]

Yes and there should be plenty of blade on both sides of the wood for the baton to strike, if not then the wood is too thick for the blade.

See? Some people get it.

A dumb question I suppose.

Why the obsession with splitting such large logs?

I'm overlooking something here I think, but none of that really applies for a survival fire eh?

The idea is, you're stuck in a situation where there is no kindling and every piece of wood in the area is wet on the surface. You need to get to some dry wood.

EDIT: Wow. I just sounded like a proponent of battoning!

I'm not. If there are pieces of wood the size of the log shown in the video then there is kindling around or smaller sections that can be split for dry wood.

 

[Brian Sargent]

Finally got the big picture to load:

The tang is the same on all the fallknivens. Basically the outline of the handle minus .2" or so. With radiused corners instead of 90 degree stress risers.

And you can make excuses all you want for knives breaking ... I'd rather have a knife that I haven't seen broken yet. I searched for some time, and I have not found pics or even reports of a Fallkniven failing. Same for Busse. So that's what I'm going by.

Edit: as for the warranty thing, my view is echoed by the cinema classic, Tommy Boy:

Ted Nelson, Customer But why do they put a guarantee on the box?
Tommy: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of shit. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.

OK, you've proven that FK knives don't break, idiots baton huge logs, Cold Steel stick tangs are like crap in a box, and have feelings that the Bravo1 skeleton tang isn't much better .....

 

[penetrator]

That's one view to have, but if a company continuously failed and had a good warranty like BRKT's, would they still be in business?

Good question. Depends on how many duds they send out. And how many of these actually get used. I'm guessing a significant percentage of expensive knives disappears in drawers or gets only very light use. The BRKT issue has been discussed at length in this thread:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781983

I didn't want to start a batoning discussion. But consider this: you have two knives that perform about the same for most tasks, but one breaks from batoning, the other doesn't. Which one would you buy?