Bass Pro Buck 110 w/CPM154

The carbides formed during the extremely rapid solidification are fine in size FOR CPM154 (2 to 4 microns), and are uniformly distributed throughout the microstructure.
Compare this to the larger carbides (up to 50 microns or more in size), and the characteristic alloy segregation or banding which results from conventional steelmaking methods like used for 154CM.
 
Scott Hartman said:
Compare this to the larger carbides (up to 50 microns or more in size), and the characteristic alloy segregation or banding which results from conventional steelmaking methods like used for 154CM.
Click to expand...

This does not really mean that 154CM has 50micron carbides. I understand this that conventional steelmaking method may results in carbide size up to 50 microns plus this method is used in 154CM, but I guess it depends on Carbon contents. D2 may have 50 micron carbides, but it is not nesseserely true for let say Sandvic 12C27. This is why as I understand is is critial to use PM with steels like CPM S90V and ZDP-189 with huge carbon contents, but 154CM has Carbon content usual for premium stainless steel.

This is why I am wondering what is carbides size in 154CM.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I made some pictures

Here Bass Pro folding Hunter - Buck 110 with CPM 154 stee and polished gray coating.

Buck-110-CPM154-04.jpg


Blade is really polished or it is coating making it polished, but on other Bucks 110 grinding lines are visible a bit. On this one it is almost mirror polished.

Buck-110-CPM154-05.jpg


I am wondering what is this coating - it looks hard and durable, is it TiAlN?

It does look black until you compare it to Cabela's Alaskan Guide CPM S30V with TiAlN coating, which is really black.

Buck-110-CPM154-02.jpg


And this is all my collection of Buck 110. Currently I am doing some tests to see how different this steels actually are. This is why there are vertical marks on the blades.

Buck-110-CPM154-01.jpg


So, far they shouw no significant difference in sharpening, may be CPM S30V and BG42 shows better respons to sharpening then 420HC. I will resharpen new knife and will add it to testing.

Initial sharpness out of the box shows this disribution:

70 +
80 ++++
90 +++
100 ++++++++
110 ++++X+
120 ++++++++
130 +++
140 ++++
150 +++
160 +
170 +

Median 110 on 41 measurements. Which is better then after diamond rod 1200 grip, but worse then after 6 micron diamond powder - somewhere in between. Which is good.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
MY goodness Nozh2002...

Those are perhaps among, if not, the best pics I have seen here.
Great data, but those are flat out beautiful knives.
 
Those are great photos and great knives:thumbup: :thumbup: ...the rest of the information makes me feel like Jessica Simpson in the Direct TV ad where she says..."I totally don't know what that means..but I want it":D ;) :D. Preston
 
Buck_110 said:
Vassili:
Are you going up to 1200 on the CPM blades? You'll probably retain an edge longer if you don't go up to 1200. Are you testing the wear resistance of the edge, or just the initial sharpness? If the edge has great initial sharpness, but no wear resistance, I personally don't believe that to be advantageous. A bit coarser grit is going to provide a better balance of both properties.
Click to expand...

After 1200 Diamond Products EzeLap I usually polish it with diamond powder 6 micron and then 1 micron this time I will try 0.3? (50000Mesh) to see what will happen. After sharpening it this way I will cut 1/8" basswood and will see what happen. In general I am just curios what will this test give me.

Then I may try to sharpen them on 1200 only and see bluntering dynamic in that case.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
pjsjr said:
Those are great photos and great knives:thumbup: :thumbup: ...the rest of the information makes me feel like Jessica Simpson in the Direct TV ad where she says..."I totally don't know what that means..but I want it":D ;) :D. Preston
Click to expand...

HA HA HA HA!!!!!!!!!!!! TFF!!!!
THANK YOU PRESTON!!!!
Just came back to this thread to look at the awesome pics and reading what the heck I don't understand
I felt like I was back in class, nodding knowingly but having no clue as to what the hell the teacher was saying. Then sweating that I was gonna be asked a question.

"1080i resolution??"
I covet her...
 
She'd be alot like Vassili's knives and photos...easy to look, at delightful to hold.:thumbup: :D :eek: :D:thumbup: . Preston
 
Buck_110 said:
Are you putting a convex or flat "V" ground edge on? If you convex the edge properly, you wont have a "shoulder" between the blade grind and edge grind; like a flat "V" ground edge creates. Without this "shoulder," the convex edge will be a better cutter. A convex edge is also stouter, and wont roll like a long, lean, razor thin flat ground "V" edge. I doubt you'll have rolling problems with CPM steel, but rather chipping problems instead; if leaned out and thinned too much.
Click to expand...

No I am not so skilled enough in the art of sharpening to maintain convex edge. I have a hope that when I do sharpening on leather because it is softer then stone, I get some kind of slightly convex shape - it smoothes sholders a bit, but it is not real convex edge which as I understand only best sharpeners can achive.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Initial sharpness out of the box shows this disribution:
70 +
80 ++++
90 +++
100 ++++++++
110 ++++X+
120 ++++++++
130 +++
140 ++++
150 +++
160 +
170 +
Median 110 on 41 measurements. Which is better then after diamond rod 1200 grip, but worse then after 6 micron diamond powder - somewhere in between.
Click to expand...
OK..I'll take a shot at interpreting the Vasilli graph (Just a WAG mind ya!):

The vertical scale from 70 through 170 is the sharpness measurement, maybe a digital scale readout (in grams) showing force needed to cut thread or wood.

41 measurements were made:
70 grams- 1 test scored this sharpness
80 grams- 4 tests scored this sharpness
90 grams- 3 tests scored this sharpness
100 grams- 8 tests scored this sharpness
etc.

The median result was 110 grams (marked with an "X".)

This out-of-box sharpness was better than that obtained from sharpening with a 1200 grit diamond rod, but not as sharp as that obtained from 6 micron diamond powder.
 
Oh, I am really sorry, I should explain you more... Kind of being in this process for a while I take many things as an obviouce.

Thanks a lot matt321. My mistake.

Yes, it is kind of household science I try to came up with for bit more then a year to have some way to measure condition of the edge. On not really precize spring scales from kitchen I am cutting not really even cotton thread and measure weight. To be able to see edge condition I make 21 or more measurements like this put them on the gridpaper making some kind of chart which I belive describes edge condition.

Right now I am testing my 4 Buck 110 to see is there any difference between 420HC, BG42, CPM S30V and CPM154 and also try to understand this method of testing too.

Here more about this:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=443670

I will post all results when I will get them.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
My Bass Pro 110 finally arrived and it looks just like the one posted by Vassili, wood grain is different but close enough. Looks to be rosewood and is very similar to the wood in my Cabela AG110.

Great photos Vassili. I was going to post similar shots but you've got the same knives (substitute elk horn and ni-ag bolsters on the custom) and obviously a better camera/lighting -- I'll need to work on the lighting. The custom I recently ordered with BG-42, ni-ag and KOA Flame wood is intended to be a carry knife. I'll post some group shots when that arrives.
 
chickentrax said:
...:eek: ...I must agree! :) :thumbup: Vassili, what camera do you use???
Click to expand...

I have Canon XTi which is very good. But to make good pictures lighting is much more important then camera, I use 3 Canon flashes - 2 slaves from the close distanse on the sides with white filters made out of packing foam (you may see light spots at the left-bottom corner and right side of the photo) and master on the camera which light knife from the top but not directly - bouncing from the white screen. With this setup anybody can do same shots - pretty easy and very fast. As well as any pictures - your friends or famaly - similar lighting setup (but master bouncing from the sealing) make pictures look much better.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I continue to bring shame to all of us Buckminsters.

After an inexcusably long absence, I read this topic and noted with great interest that the Bass Pro Shops 110 probably really is CPM 154 and not "just" 154CM.

Obviously, I must have one.

So you'd think I'd just save my pennies and order it, right?

Nooooooooooooo. Instead, I ordered a Benchmade Osborne Ambush.

I am ashamed. I have no excuse, but I suspect the reason it happened is because my buddy recently acquired a Benchmade Fecas Snipe (partially serrated) and is considering getting a plain edge of the same. I had Benchmade envy, pure and simple.

But that is no excuse. Now I must again start saving pennies and rebates and cashback bonuses so I can do the right thing and snag a Bass Pro 110.

As additional penance, I learned two nights ago that one of my best friends has never owned a Buck 110. He is almost 40, comes from a hilljack/redneck town and county, but has never owned the official knife of his people. I'm going to fix that for him the next time I can find one with a good rebate or sale price.
 
rhino said:
He is almost 40, comes from a hilljack/redneck town and county, but has never owned the official knife of his people. I'm going to fix that for him the next time I can find one with a good rebate or sale price.
Click to expand...

Rhino....tooo funny!:rolleyes:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top