Batoning SR101

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Honestly the only characteristic of sr101 that I don't care for is that it likes to oxidize if you don't pay mind to it if you strip it.

But for my heavy users, it's not a big deal because they don't get time to rust.
 
That's a lotta work, but I like the outcome of the tiger stripes!
Nice...
Thanks for the pics CD!
 
MacLaren1 said:
Aw shucks yeah.....I wish I could go back to even 2002. I was 30 years old and single, and my pockets would jingle....
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Too much information, lol!
Keep that pocket jingling to yourself, haha!

If I could go back, I would spend a bit less
time memorizing ballistic data, and learn a lot
more about how to make money, oh yeah &
how to save money!

And I may have skipped work on that Monday long ago
when the trucker tried to kill me on my bike on my way
home from work..
Tho something worse might have happened...

Tho, If I could go back I'd buy an Argonne Assualt / Attack (the one with the full guard!)
The set of killer Bees & the anniversary Flying Mojo, with serrations...!

That's life tho eh?
Gotta play the hand we're dealt!
Plus, I'm no salesman... Buy high, sell low (no not "high" high, but pay more sell for less)

Well, have a good one all y'all!
 
6850 said:
Too much information, lol!
Keep that pocket jingling to yourself, haha!

If I could go back, I would spend a bit less
time memorizing ballistic data, and learn a lot
more about how to make money, oh yeah &
how to save money!

And I may have skipped work on that Monday long ago
when the trucker tried to kill me on my bike on my way
home from work..
Tho something worse might have happened...

Tho, If I could go back I'd buy an Argonne Assualt / Attack (the one with the full guard!)
The set of killer Bees & the anniversary Flying Mojo, with serrations...!

That's life tho eh?
Gotta play the hand we're dealt!
Plus, I'm no salesman... Buy high, sell low (no not "high" high, but pay more sell for less)

Well, have a good one all y'all!
Click to expand...

Lol.....too much info?
All that meant was that I had money when I was single lol....."pockets would jingle because they had money" lol
I'm not even gonna try and imagine what you were thinkin!!! Lol..:p:D
 
MacLaren1 said:
Lol.....too much info?
All that meant was that I had money when I was single lol....."pockets would jingle because they had money" lol
I'm not even gonna try and imagine what you were thinkin!!! Lmao.....
Click to expand...

Haha, I'm sorry Bud, I was just kidding around, lol!
You're a good sport!
Happy Holidays Mac1!
 
clampdaddy said:
I have some from when I first stripped it and sanded out the grinder gremlin marks, but then I did a mustard tigerstripe patina on it. I got tired of that look and I've sanded it out and done more dehorn work (what you saw in the other photos) since then but I can get some new pics when I get home from work if you want. Since my hand rides further back when chopping I only did the rear talon and pommel. But anyway, here's what I have on hand at the moment.

View attachment 801411 View attachment 801412 View attachment 801414 View attachment 801415
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wow, looks great. I will let the finish on mine wear naturally, but the dehorn I may have to do.
 
Cobalt said:
wow, looks great. I will let the finish on mine wear naturally, but the dehorn I may have to do.
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When I chop with mine my hand rides back far enough that the pommel would really wear on the butt of my hand there twards the rear of the palm. For me, dehorning that part actually did more for comfort than even the talon.
 
clampdaddy said:
When I chop with mine my hand rides back far enough that the pommel would really wear on the butt of my hand there twards the rear of the palm. For me, dehorning that part actually did more for comfort than even the talon.
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So you thinned out the micarta right below the rear hollow rivet, it looks like. Which makes sense, because I can feel that part in my hand as well.
 
jimmay said:
My Carothers field knife chipped out pretty good while cutting up a doe last year. Chopped through the pelvis and the edge chipped out in several places and rolled in several more. I stropped it to bring most of it back and broke out the belts to give it its edge back. There's only one spot that I didn't get completely out but it'll work. I have quartered almost as many pigs with it as my MSe this year.

On a side note I cleaned my sons buck the next day with my Mean Street Ergo and the blade just needed to be washed. Still cut arm hairs after cleaning it. I normally use a hacksaw for the pelvic but with all of the knife reviews and abuse videos I thought that I would do some real world to me testing just to see if they lived up to the hype. Lesson learned is use the right tool for the job.

Nathan makes some badass comfortable knives without a doubt, but. I honestly think that my field knife ( my only Carothers so far) is a little brittle for full on "do everything". I know that there is a fine line between making a knife blade hard enough and making it brittle. I have nothing "bad" to say about my field knife. It will cut, skin and separate joints just fine but I won't chop bone with it (or any knife) anymore. I have destroyed a lot of production knives in my time and have not hesitated to use it to dress any animal.
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I read this post with great concern because what you wrote there sounds pretty bad to me, so I wanted an opportunity to address it.

We make a lot of knives in a heat treat optimized 3V. Some of the smaller knives that won't normally see much impact are austenitized at a higher temperature in order to form a plate martensite (rather than the mostly lath that 3V normally forms) that offers a little better "crisp" edge, though less toughness. It is a little harder, but it is the structures formed, not the hardness, that differentiate it from our usual heat treat tweaks. The old Field Knife used that HT. It also supported a narrower edge so at first we were sharpening them at 15 DPS. This is much thinner and more acute than some folks over here might be familiar with. That particular knife was advertised as being a good cutter with good edge retention in a package that was relatively indestructible, but not intended as a rough use knife. My video showed shaving very thin slices off a sitting unsupported tomato.

That said, that knife is intended to tolerate rough bone contact. The sort of damage you describe from the sort of use you describe is not what I would expect to see, based on my own use of that knife in similar usage. "chipped out in several places and rolled in several more" sounds bad to me, but there may be a difference in your use of those terms and my own. When I think "chipped out" I'm envisioning significant edge damage and bits of steel missing. Possibly damage going up into the primary grind, considering the relatively thin dimension behind the edge.

Given my confusion I wanted to address the potential of other folks being similarly confused. So I took an old Field Knife (sharpened at 18 DPS) and cut a 1/4-20 bolt with it as a demonstration to show what I mean by "tolerates rough use". It's not indestructible. I make some rough use knives but this isn't one of them. And it does take some edge damage going through a 1/4" bolt. It is chipped. But I wouldn't call it chipped out. It will be resharpened and be fine. When I think "chipped out" I'm envisioning a more significant blow out than that.


I'm only posting here because this is a fairly unflattering review and I felt compelled to address it. Jerry makes some very durable knives. He knows I love them. But they can also be a little thicker and more obtuse. My work is not intended to be the same sort of thing and it will behave differently (for better and for worse) so it's possible you might be comparing two knives with significantly different edge geometry. If you were to sharpen your Field Knife to 24 DPS it would behave much differently.

If you're not satisfied with your knife you can return it for a refund. If your knife needs to be resharpened you can send it back for some love. If you're concerned there's something wrong with it and would like us to take a look at it we would be more than happy to. Please let me know if there is anything I can do for you.
 
Cobalt said:
So you thinned out the micarta right below the rear hollow rivet, it looks like. Which makes sense, because I can feel that part in my hand as well.
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No, I didn't touch the micarta. Just knocked the edges off the steel itself, but now that you mention it I may have to check that out as well. Lol!
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
I read this post with great concern because what you wrote there sounds pretty bad to me, so I wanted an opportunity to address it.

We make a lot of knives in a heat treat optimized 3V. Some of the smaller knives that won't normally see much impact are austenitized at a higher temperature in order to form a plate martensite (rather than the mostly lath that 3V normally forms) that offers a little better "crisp" edge, though less toughness. It is a little harder, but it is the structures formed, not the hardness, that differentiate it from our usual heat treat tweaks. The old Field Knife used that HT. It also supported a narrower edge so at first we were sharpening them at 15 DPS. This is much thinner and more acute than some folks over here might be familiar with. That particular knife was advertised as being a good cutter with good edge retention in a package that was relatively indestructible, but not intended as a rough use knife. My video showed shaving very thin slices off a sitting unsupported tomato.

That said, that knife is intended to tolerate rough bone contact. The sort of damage you describe from the sort of use you describe is not what I would expect to see, based on my own use of that knife in similar usage. "chipped out in several places and rolled in several more" sounds bad to me, but there may be a difference in your use of those terms and my own. When I think "chipped out" I'm envisioning significant edge damage and bits of steel missing. Possibly damage going up into the primary grind, considering the relatively thin dimension behind the edge.

Given my confusion I wanted to address the potential of other folks being similarly confused. So I took an old Field Knife (sharpened at 18 DPS) and cut a 1/4-20 bolt with it as a demonstration to show what I mean by "tolerates rough use". It's not indestructible. I make some rough use knives but this isn't one of them. And it does take some edge damage going through a 1/4" bolt. It is chipped. But I wouldn't call it chipped out. It will be resharpened and be fine. When I think "chipped out" I'm envisioning a more significant blow out than that.


I'm only posting here because this is a fairly unflattering review and I felt compelled to address it. Jerry makes some very durable knives. He knows I love them. But they can also be a little thicker and more obtuse. My work is not intended to be the same sort of thing and it will behave differently (for better and for worse) so it's possible you might be comparing two knives with significantly different edge geometry. If you were to sharpen your Field Knife to 24 DPS it would behave much differently.

If you're not satisfied with your knife you can return it for a refund. If your knife needs to be resharpened you can send it back for some love. If you're concerned there's something wrong with it and would like us to take a look at it we would be more than happy to. Please let me know if there is anything I can do for you.
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Never heard of your knives sir but that's very classy of you to address this and offer solutions. Will have to check out your work
 
The fact that I haven't heard of him should only be interpreted as my ignorance. So much of the high end knife world I don't know.
 
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