- Joined
- Jun 12, 2009
- Messages
- 125
OK,
I have seen this topic come up a couple times, and I am mystified...
So, if you all would be kind enough, educate me about this controversy surrounding batoning...
Some people think it is abusive?
Some people think it is the only way to fly?
I saw a picture with a sign dividing the camp into those who baton and those who don't. Sounds like a jest, but is it pointing at a deeper conversation?
I guess I am pro the batoning....
I guess I also see it as a fact, not a debate, maybe I am missing something.....
Marion
MDP,
Out of curiosity, was this query to ascertain if you should adapt your products, or to attempt to settle the core elements of the nature of this batoning "dispute?" I myself was unaware it was anything more than personal preference and knowing the limits of one's own equipment.
Are you interested in reaching some consensus regarding criterion for or against batoning? I have examples of each, I can't say my experience advances the position one way or another. However, I will express the view that the knives for which batoning may be necessary to cut relatively small saplings or dry kindling due to their short, light blades are exactly the knives that tend to be optimized to reduce cutting resistance and increased edge holding (thinner blade grind geometry, relatively high final hardness, little emphasis on toughness). This is not universally true, but reflects a trend I've observed.
I've seen a few fairly fancy factory knives fracture at the hilt or mid-way along the blade body at or near the point of percussion where the baton was concussed enthusiastically, with the crack propagating from an originating fracture at either the spine or at the edge. Some might say this is good evidence that any vigorous banging is abuse and even your standard $100+ factory-fare "field" or "camp knives" can fail under such use. The knife buying public's over-fascination with blade hardness may have much to do with these types of failures. In simple terms, achieving a high hardness is fairly cheap, heat cycling a batch of blades many times to achieve a final temper is time consuming and thus costly.
Some of the better made knives with differential tempers, annealed to achieve a softer, rather more springy temper can generally be slapped around fairly brutally without catastrophic failure. I myself would prefer to have an edge, point or main bevel that rolls over, bends or dings instead of chipping out or fracturing. Better a blunt or bent knife than a broken implement that used to be a knife.
If you know you will be facing some menacing tree branch that needs cutting, it would be wise to bring along a proper chopping instrument (a large heavy knife blade with a proper convex grind, a hatchet, an axe), or a folding/collapsible saw, while keeping the smaller knives for tasks which they are better suited for.
To the best of my knowledge, no one bothers battoning sturdy knife blades of 8" or more unless the purpose is to demonstrate equal parts machismo and masochism via the splitting of well dried log rounds, a feat better suited to purpose-built splitting axes and mauls.
Smaller blades for which batoning may be necessary to cut through the odd sapling tend to feature thinner edge grinds and often even higher final edge/blade hardness than well made larger bladed knives. The shorter blades are often deemed less apt to fracture in "normal" use, which generally excludes chopping and batoning from the criterion of what constitutes use which is "normal."
With warm regards,
-E