The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Hey all I'm kinda new to knives although I do own a kabar short I'm trying to find a good batoning/bushcraft knife I like the esee5 and 6 but am still looking any one suggestions please
My kabar would be fine but the false edge I highly dislike
I think batoning with an axe is the the best option...
[video=youtube;hOMxnWPgUlk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOMxnWPgUlk[/video]
Thx for all the suggestions axes can be a bit heavy when backpacking so I'm not really interested there thx though for all suggestions I'm looking at th bk 15 at 60 $ from kabar its 50% off on kabar.com. But it's not really a batoning knife
Yeah thats probably the least baton friendly Becker. I hear its a fantastic all around camp knife but since you specific want something to baton I'd really go for something with a stouter tip and less swedge.
Baton smaller pieces or can take off smaller slices from the edge.
Batoning is a skill you may never need to use.
So on the constant argument that knives are not made for batoning I would like to discuss the Froe. The Froe is a large, sharpened forged steel bar with an eye for a perpendicular wood handle that was meant to baton through wood. It was mostly used for wooden slats/shingles, but could be used for larger work. Now this blade was forged like an axe head, so it wasn't a super steel and doesn't come near today's knife blade durability. Of COURSE knives (certain ones) are intended also for batoning! Find one in good steel and at least 6 inches (personal preference) and don't try to baton a log in half but edge piece by edge piece and you will be fine. You can actually baton with a butter knife but I wouldn't bet my survival on it lasting, lol...
True, and an axe will always be the better tool for the job. That does not mean that a knife is not a great all around tool when weight is a concern for carry. Like all multiple use tools it is not perfectly ideal, but does the job adequately and should be recognized as more than capable in regards to batoning...A froe would be heat treated for toughness - more like an ax than a knife. It would be far more durable than a knife and far more idiot-proof. It is made to twist/pry in the cut to break off the work - something to avoid with a knife.
A place to start: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Froe
The irony in this post is hilarious. The "right tool for the job" in regards to splitting would in fact be an axe or hatchet. And if you're going off that video as anywhere near the proper method for splitting wood with a hatchet then I highly suggest you watch a video with someone that actually knows how to use one.This is why I hate splitting with a hatchet. Too slow and clumsy. With my knife it literally takes half the time or less to split out kindling. "Use the right tool for the job" as they say.![]()
The irony in this post is hilarious. The "right tool for the job" in regards to splitting would in fact be an axe or hatchet. And if you're going off that video as anywhere near the proper method for splitting wood with a hatchet then I highly suggest you watch a video with someone that actually knows how to use one.
ocnLogan, I couldn't agree more with your last paragraph. I too put hatchets and large knives in the same category and find their performance simalar. I prefer large knives over a hatchet. For me, they are safer. A while back, I had to take a basic camping/wildlife course for my job. We were instructed to bring a hatchet to the class. It was a nightmare, a disaster waiting to happen. Hatchets are just to close to the body with all the weight to one end. People were almost striking themselves in the head while pulling the axe back to strike. Glancing blows were barely missing legs. The instructed forced everyone to baton with their hatchet. While I love my GB small forest axe and use it often, that's the shortest I'll go in an axe.
Why on earth would you need to pack a flat surface with you? There are several ways to split wood without having it standing upright and if I had a video camera I would be more than happy to educate you on how myself. In the meantime, read anything by Kochanski, Sears, Kephart, Mears, and you will learn many different methods of processing wood with an axe or hatchet. If you insist on videos, there are several out there as well. IA Woodsman, Mears, Robinet, MCQ Bushcraft, Canterbury, are just some of many on YouTube that will show you various effective techniques on this.The real irony is read the story under your post. My question is do you pack a sturdy flat surface to stand wood on to split while on over night hikes? And how do you get your logs and branches to stand on their own for splitting? Or do you hold it with the off hand and swing away?
You can baton on any surface, in limited space, without a sturdy level splitting surface and logs that won't stand on their own anywhere on any trail. I'm not seeing how a hatchet would be the proper tool. If you could be so kind to show us a hiker on a hike trip doing it proper that would be awesome.
Why on earth would you need to pack a flat surface with you? There are several ways to split wood without having it standing upright and if I had a video camera I would be more than happy to educate you on how myself. In the meantime, read anything by Kochanski, Sears, Kephart, Mears, and you will learn many different methods of processing wood with an axe or hatchet. If you insist on videos, there are several out there as well. IA Woodsman, Mears, Robinet, MCQ Bushcraft, Canterbury, are just some of many on YouTube that will show you various effective techniques on this.