Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
Jeff Clark :
Excellent, that is one of the main problems. It is all well and good to come up with a range of testing methods that give robust results, but if you are the only one who can make sense out of them then there is a bit of a problem.
Greenjacket :
Pretty much, there were no major surprises. It fell into line with what I had expected based on the respected geometries with a few minor interesting parts. The only thing that I felt was odd was the extent of the tip bending on the SOG, I was not surprised that it bent, but that it could bent as much as it did without breaking. I would guess that maybe the tip was a little soft.
It should be noted that the edge grind on the right hand side of the SOG skewed towards the tip and effectively left the tip chisel ground which is probably why it bent so badly. I intend to center the tip up a little and repeat the 2x4 digging. However since it had taken a set previously through the tip, it won't react as course as will a NIB blade.
Update :
I did a minor flame test on both handles. It consisted of simply letting a wooden match burn out underneath them, with the flame just touching the grip material. The SOG grip smoked immediately, but didn't melt nor burn. Lots of blackening though, and a very aggressive dimpling pattern resulted, which interestingly enough feels very good in hand. I then repeated this on the checkering part and this suffered more damage which you would expect given the higher surface to volume ratio, still didn't catch fire.
When exposed to the lit match, the MPK's grip didn't smoke as much, nor did it melt nor catch fire. The handle also took a more aggressive texture and blackened. Grabbing the handle right after the flame burnt out was possible indicating a very low thermal conductivity, which you would expect (SOG grip was the same). It would actually be nice to use in this manner in cold weather. However I would not really recommend it because you are removing grip material, and repeated heatings will effect the structure of the grip obviously.
I also did a quick check to see if the rust resistance of the SOG was up to handling extended exposed to salt water. I used a mixture of 1tsp of table salt to 1 cup of water. I wrapped the blade in tissue paper and wet it down with 1/4 cup of the salt water mixture, simulating a wet sheath. The blade was left stand tip down, for 24 hours, in a 2l pop bottle which contained the run off from the tissure paper.
The blade had been sharpened before the soaking and tested at 2.4 +/- .3 cm on the 1/4" poly, consistent with the previous sharpenings. After the soaking the edge had degraded to 3.5 +/- 0.7 cm. Blunter but not by a huge amount considering the spread of the results, 31 +/- 17 % degredation. However after cutting some 3/8" hemp the edge quickly degraded at a very fast pace. Two cuts were made and then I could not make a complete cut even with 65+ lbs of force, four trials were attempted.
After the hemp cutting I measured the edge aggression on the poly and found a huge change, it was about 5 cm near the base right in front of the serrations, but soon took off to needing 8 cm , which was basically the rest of the blade. Basically the corrosion set inversely proportional to the distance from the tip which makes sense since that part was resting in the salt water solution directly.
The dependance of the edge degredation on edge position was consistent with the visible rust evident on the blade. Near the tip the entire edge was covered in a light brown sort of fog. As you moved back along the blade the rust was contained to just spotting. The majority of the spots were from .5 to 1 mm across, there were ~100 of them on the right side of the blade, only about 25 on the left. The blade had also corroded along the flats on the areas where the coating had been removed from previous cutting.
I have also performed similar soaks on ATS-34, VG-10, D2 etc., they will all take much more damage than the SOG 440A blade. Much more surface area will be covered and deep pitting will also be induced. The edge damage is excessive and a decent amount of material has to be removed before the edge will reform clean. Of course rusting is a very random process, I intend to repeat this a few times, changing the nature of the soaking to see how the blade reacts.
-Cliff
I find that I can easily translate his numbers back into the practical and subjective arena.
Excellent, that is one of the main problems. It is all well and good to come up with a range of testing methods that give robust results, but if you are the only one who can make sense out of them then there is a bit of a problem.
Greenjacket :
... these results are not exactly earth shattering.
Pretty much, there were no major surprises. It fell into line with what I had expected based on the respected geometries with a few minor interesting parts. The only thing that I felt was odd was the extent of the tip bending on the SOG, I was not surprised that it bent, but that it could bent as much as it did without breaking. I would guess that maybe the tip was a little soft.
It should be noted that the edge grind on the right hand side of the SOG skewed towards the tip and effectively left the tip chisel ground which is probably why it bent so badly. I intend to center the tip up a little and repeat the 2x4 digging. However since it had taken a set previously through the tip, it won't react as course as will a NIB blade.
Update :
I did a minor flame test on both handles. It consisted of simply letting a wooden match burn out underneath them, with the flame just touching the grip material. The SOG grip smoked immediately, but didn't melt nor burn. Lots of blackening though, and a very aggressive dimpling pattern resulted, which interestingly enough feels very good in hand. I then repeated this on the checkering part and this suffered more damage which you would expect given the higher surface to volume ratio, still didn't catch fire.
When exposed to the lit match, the MPK's grip didn't smoke as much, nor did it melt nor catch fire. The handle also took a more aggressive texture and blackened. Grabbing the handle right after the flame burnt out was possible indicating a very low thermal conductivity, which you would expect (SOG grip was the same). It would actually be nice to use in this manner in cold weather. However I would not really recommend it because you are removing grip material, and repeated heatings will effect the structure of the grip obviously.
I also did a quick check to see if the rust resistance of the SOG was up to handling extended exposed to salt water. I used a mixture of 1tsp of table salt to 1 cup of water. I wrapped the blade in tissue paper and wet it down with 1/4 cup of the salt water mixture, simulating a wet sheath. The blade was left stand tip down, for 24 hours, in a 2l pop bottle which contained the run off from the tissure paper.
The blade had been sharpened before the soaking and tested at 2.4 +/- .3 cm on the 1/4" poly, consistent with the previous sharpenings. After the soaking the edge had degraded to 3.5 +/- 0.7 cm. Blunter but not by a huge amount considering the spread of the results, 31 +/- 17 % degredation. However after cutting some 3/8" hemp the edge quickly degraded at a very fast pace. Two cuts were made and then I could not make a complete cut even with 65+ lbs of force, four trials were attempted.
After the hemp cutting I measured the edge aggression on the poly and found a huge change, it was about 5 cm near the base right in front of the serrations, but soon took off to needing 8 cm , which was basically the rest of the blade. Basically the corrosion set inversely proportional to the distance from the tip which makes sense since that part was resting in the salt water solution directly.
The dependance of the edge degredation on edge position was consistent with the visible rust evident on the blade. Near the tip the entire edge was covered in a light brown sort of fog. As you moved back along the blade the rust was contained to just spotting. The majority of the spots were from .5 to 1 mm across, there were ~100 of them on the right side of the blade, only about 25 on the left. The blade had also corroded along the flats on the areas where the coating had been removed from previous cutting.
I have also performed similar soaks on ATS-34, VG-10, D2 etc., they will all take much more damage than the SOG 440A blade. Much more surface area will be covered and deep pitting will also be induced. The edge damage is excessive and a decent amount of material has to be removed before the edge will reform clean. Of course rusting is a very random process, I intend to repeat this a few times, changing the nature of the soaking to see how the blade reacts.
-Cliff