Becker BK10... Hollow Tang???

bush-haus said:
You can abuse both the ESEE and Becker knives considerably before they will fail. They are both made out of tough steels--albeit they don't compete with other super steels. While ESEE uses 1095, Kabar uses 1095 Cro-Van (1095 with higher amounts of Vanadium, Chromium, and Nickel).

My point in the post was that you mentioned choosing between the ESEE 5 or the Becker BK10. They are not of the same thickness, the former being 1/4" vs 3/16" of the Becker BK10. Both are sturdy and can be used and abused. The ESEE 5 is comparable to the BK2--it's a great knife but it will never be accused of being a great slicer due to the 1/4" blade and wide obtuse grind geometry. The BK10 is thinner, making it more slicey, therefore more functional.

If you are going for a knife that can cut a Buick in half, go with the BK2. If you want a similar profile with a thinner, more slicey blade, get a BK10. Your initial concern of the skeleton tang shouldn't a concern. Kabar has done a ton of testing before putting these out in the world. You'd have to be hitting it with metal, baton and hit a rock or knot, or almost TRY to break it. They will fail, but use a knife to cut, and you're good.

We use Beckers harder than your average knife because we know they can take it. Note that we do this knowing we substantially increase the potential of failure. If it fails, you were probably knowingly taking this knife to it's breaking point.

And to your point about the handles, the Becker handles are fantastic for long-term use.
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Yeah, all true. I get exactly what you're saying...

Thank you...

This knife is essentially going to be a "trail knife". Something I can take into the woods, attach a firesteel to and really only have for emergencies. Gotta be able to chop and generally beat the shit out of without worry. I've got the BK 10 on the desk over here and I was obviously attracted to the lighter weight and the nicer blade geometry, but I'm wondering if the Bk 2 or some Esee might be better for the intended purpose in this case. Wish I had a retailer around here that carried both (Iowa). Or the money to buy all of them... Ha!

Honestly, I would just take my camp 10 out on the trail, but my brothers don't want to be seen with someone who has a 10in. blade strapped to their waist...

Scaredies!!!
 
MolokaiRider said:
Forget about the Schrade. They are not the same company as before, and produce substandard products.

Esee makes a good knife. That said (as mentioned earlier) they have poor cutting geometry compared to a BK10.

If I were you, I’d grab a 10, a set of micarta handles, and a Kydex sheath from Azwelke.

It’s a great package.View attachment 1497785View attachment 1497786View attachment 1497787
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That stupid semi- hollow/ half-scandi grind or whatever they put on that schf 38 -What the heck??! Why can't they just put a saber grind on there?? Heard that's what they used to do with the Jessica-X, then changed for whatever reason... Did they change the grinds on some of their other knives as well??

Seen some people convexing both their Beckers and their Esees to nice effect...

-T
 
For reference, I have beat the ever lovin’ snott out of my BK9 as most of us have. It’s 3/16” thick, just like the BK10. I’ve had it for 10 years. I have split countless logs. Matter of face that’s all I do with it is baton logs. All I need to do is sharpen it periodically.
Certainly won’t tell you what to like and dislike, but I have a 1/4” blade and there’s a reason I don’t carry it. A 5” long, 1/4” blade is good for keeping your bag/belt heavy—and not much else.

Beckerhead #32
 
bush-haus said:
For reference, I have beat the ever lovin’ snott out of my BK9 as most of us have. It’s 3/16” thick, just like the BK10. I’ve had it for 10 years. I have split countless logs. Matter of face that’s all I do with it is baton logs. All I need to do is sharpen it periodically.
Certainly won’t tell you what to like and dislike, but I have a 1/4” blade and there’s a reason I don’t carry it. A 5” long, 1/4” blade is good for keeping your bag/belt heavy—and not much else.

Beckerhead #32
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Kinda what I was thinkin'...

Thank you!!
 
And a short blade like the BK10 won't give so much leverage to a whack on the spine like a BK-9 will. It's a really tough knife. It's also a knife. If you want a piece of armor plate strapped to your waist, go for it. But I can't imagine that would be good for your back. You'll need two to be symmetrical. Now you're winded and your buddies have the campfire started already by the time you gasp your way to the campsite, making you wonder why you hauled such a heavy firesteel scraper in the first place.

re: beveling
Yes, give a little 45-degree or just a rollover. Like you'd countersink a tang hole. You'd totally countersink a tang hole. Be proud, don't deny it. Stresses in material are carried around the surfaces, as those are the locations of greatest compression and elongation. Sharp corners concentrate those stresses. Don't give 'em a chance.

Just so happens that I had Brian Goode's IG post up in another window right now. See how he countersinks his tang holes? Be like Brian: https://www.instagram.com/p/CKfDmLjDCCC/
 
bush-haus said:
For reference, I have beat the ever lovin’ snott out of my BK9 as most of us have. It’s 3/16” thick, just like the BK10. I’ve had it for 10 years. I have split countless logs. Matter of face that’s all I do with it is baton logs. All I need to do is sharpen it periodically.
Certainly won’t tell you what to like and dislike, but I have a 1/4” blade and there’s a reason I don’t carry it. A 5” long, 1/4” blade is good for keeping your bag/belt heavy—and not much else.

Beckerhead #32
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Out of curiosity: Have you ever checked out any of the Ontario knives?? Really love the look of the Ranger Series. Relative same weight of the BK10 most of them. Different grind of course (Flat), so for sure that would make a difference. Prominent finger choils on those, however. Can't stand finger choils...

Just curious!
 
daizee said:
And a short blade like the BK10 won't give so much leverage to a whack on the spine like a BK-9 will. It's a really tough knife. It's also a knife. If you want a piece of armor plate strapped to your waist, go for it. But I can't imagine that would be good for your back. You'll need two to be symmetrical. Now you're winded and your buddies have the campfire started already by the time you gasp your way to the campsite, making you wonder why you hauled such a heavy firesteel scraper in the first place.

re: beveling
Yes, give a little 45-degree or just a rollover. Like you'd countersink a tang hole. You'd totally countersink a tang hole. Be proud, don't deny it. Stresses in material are carried around the surfaces, as those are the locations of greatest compression and elongation. Sharp corners concentrate those stresses. Don't give 'em a chance.

Just so happens that I had Brian Goode's IG post up in another window right now. See how he countersinks his tang holes? Be like Brian: https://www.instagram.com/p/CKfDmLjDCCC/
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Ahaha!

Roger that, Man!

Love your style!

Thanks for the info!


-T
 
GeofS said:
T T.M.A. have you checked out the BK7 also?
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Man! I haven't taken at a good look at the BK 7, yet. Although I am aware of it. Correct me if I'm wrong: Same as the BK 10 just and inch and a half longer??

Saw a guy on youtube that actually said he prefers the way the BK 10 performs to the BK 7...

Wish I had a supplier nearby so I could check all these out...

Might have to make a trip!!


-T
 
BK-7 is excellent. It's also a weird compromise size. The clip point is more elongated and arguably more attractive, but otherwise very similar.

I de-ramped and choiled mine, because I kept choking up on the blade around the ricasso and shaving my finger. I know you're not a choil man, but sometimes the balance of the knife demands a higher grip and then they start to make sense.
 
T.M.A. said:
Man! I haven't taken at a good look at the BK 7, yet. Although I am aware of it. Correct me if I'm wrong: Same as the BK 10 just and inch and a half longer??

Saw a guy on youtube that actually said he prefers the way the BK 10 performs to the BK 7...

Wish I had a supplier nearby so I could check all these out...

Might have to make a trip!!


-T
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In numerical order...
RT8sNtP.jpg
 
I think the grind on the 7 is higher than on the 10 - at least on my samples, and apparently on GeofS's too. That should mean more efficient slicing with the 7, but better splitting with the 10.
 
T.M.A. said:
Out of curiosity: Have you ever checked out any of the Ontario knives?? Really love the look of the Ranger Series. Relative same weight of the BK10 most of them. Different grind of course (Flat), so for sure that would make a difference. Prominent finger choils on those, however. Can't stand finger choils...

Just curious!
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I have an Ontario Ranger Afghan. The ergos are not nearly as comfortable as Becker knives.

Beckerhead #32
 
GeofS said:
In numerical order...
RT8sNtP.jpg
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I'm getting super jelly right now... Haha!

Super interesting to see them all next to each other in a more "real life" context.

That BK 2 is definitely stout. Wow. Shorter blade than the BK10, but is it also wider?? Kinda looks like it... And you didn't remove any of the thumb ramps, I see. You don't mind them? Or, perhaps, you find them helpful/ useful??

What wood is that on the handles?


-T
 
daizee said:
And a short blade like the BK10 won't give so much leverage to a whack on the spine like a BK-9 will. It's a really tough knife. It's also a knife. If you want a piece of armor plate strapped to your waist, go for it. But I can't imagine that would be good for your back. You'll need two to be symmetrical. Now you're winded and your buddies have the campfire started already by the time you gasp your way to the campsite, making you wonder why you hauled such a heavy firesteel scraper in the first place.

re: beveling
Yes, give a little 45-degree or just a rollover. Like you'd countersink a tang hole. You'd totally countersink a tang hole. Be proud, don't deny it. Stresses in material are carried around the surfaces, as those are the locations of greatest compression and elongation. Sharp corners concentrate those stresses. Don't give 'em a chance.

Just so happens that I had Brian Goode's IG post up in another window right now. See how he countersinks his tang holes? Be like Brian: https://www.instagram.com/p/CKfDmLjDCCC/
Click to expand...

I'm confused about the "leverage on the spine..." part.

-You're saying that because the BK10 is shorter than the 9 that it actually takes less stress on impact...?

-T
 
bush-haus said:
I have an Ontario Ranger Afghan. The ergos are not nearly as comfortable as Becker knives.

Beckerhead #32
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Yeah, the Ontario RTAK is like that too. Just an uncomfortable badly designed grip.
 
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