Becker BK7 snapped while processing wood

Yeah makes sense. Thank you.
So if you don't hold the handle and thus don't provide a second fixed point...

Striking a blade without any kind of hold on it is NOT a good idea no matter where you hit it.

... then hitting on that end should be the same as hitting towards the tip?

Refer to the picture in post #1

Tip=yes
Handle=no

Keep your baton on that side of the wood.
Watch this video:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k4b0nIB7T7w[/QUOTE]
 
I never quite get why someone would want more of the same...

And the suggestion to conceal the break, so that other customers can't notice a pattern, is pretty awesome too...

Gaston

I never quite get why someone only posts here when there's a warranty issue. If there's hate in your heart, I guess you have to let it out! :D
 
I never quite get why someone only posts here when there's a warranty issue. If there's hate in your heart, I guess you have to let it out! :D

Gaston444, step up, or stop. noted.
 
I don't get it either...
Especially since he only likes ridiculous Rambo knives and never uses any...

 
based on the other post "I have a TOPS silent hero and it has quickly become my favorite blade. But I was recently processing some Florida pine and the blade bent. But in the blades defense, it was some very tough, resin hardened stuff (lighterknot). The piece was probably 4 inches wide. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced a Silent Hero failing or having any trouble. Thanks. "

southern pines tend towards hardwoods. their knots are like rocks. if the knife doesn't move freely through the wood, never force it.

batoning on the handle side is "not done"... there are some good batoning videos. tip only, yah?

the best way imho to split up small wood like that is with a light (aluminum) wedge, and a 3-4 lb hammer. works. always.

still, KaBar should have you covered. please, just don't baton that way.

and yes, technique does override blade quality.

imho

goodluck...

I realize I'm a bit late to the party...but life...keeps me busy.

Before reading any of the posts, I looked at the pictures and said to my self, "Self, that pine has a lot of resin in it. That's no bueno." So, good on Ethan for offering to help. Also good to note possible poor batoning technique. I would go further than Bladite and suggest poor choice of wood. Pine resin makes for some really tough wood and is hard on a knife. It also makes the wood burn hotter and faster, two things I'm not looking for in firewood. Speaking of firewood, I'm in the camp that I process most firewood with fire. I use the smaller branches for kindling and anything smaller than 8" or so goes straight into the fire. Anything bigger needs and axe, not a knife. Why make life harder than it has to be?

Customer taken care of, and hopefully lessons learned by lots of folks. Sounds like a "win" to me.
 
I don't get it either...
Especially since he only likes ridiculous Rambo knives and never uses any...


Omg, that thing is a whole lot of f#%!&#* ridiculousness. Bet he's never used it once, I doubt he really could use it if wanted too. :p
 
A suggestion (aside from piling on and saying "use the right tool for the job" - I think we've all been guilty of not following that advice):
If you want to make smaller pieces, don't try splitting larger pieces in half. "Chip away at the stone" by knocking off a small chunk at a time.
I've "disassembled" logs that are >10" diameter x 18" length by squaring them off a bit, then batoning the "corners" off (sloppily, which ends up making new corners that can also be batoned off).
It seems like it would take longer than just splitting in half and splitting in half again, but I don't think it does.

As for an axe being too big to split wood?: Huh? I have a felling axe that I use for splitting dry logs all the way down to kindling with no problem. For the smaller stuff, I just choke up on the handle and give the wood a good thump. It falls right through.
I find I have more control with the felling axe than trying to use a hatchet (unless I'm camping, the Becker is reserved for sitting in front of the fire and making kindling to keep my hands busy once the fire is going).
 
That one is a known troll in many s/f's. He can be found on many ignore lists, mine included. :rolleyes:

Yup. He's trolled many a manufacturer subforum here. CPK, CRK, this place, Busse, if there was an Esee subforum he'd troll that too, and I am sure there are others. He trolls certain manufacturers in other manufacturer's subforums even. At some point the community is going to get tired of it.
 
Hey Logan.....

First of all I am sorry this happened to you....... l baton judiciously all the time and have yet to experience a failure..... that said there could well have been a small chip in the blade which created a stress fracture which in turn caused catastrophic failure......

I noticed that there is a lot of what I suspect is baton detritus on the thumb ramp which would indicate that you batonned between the handle and the target area.... This is one of the best ways to create a failure....... Please contact Ka-Bar at 800 282-0130 and they will help you.....If you get a chance please contact me at423 295-2500 this evening.... after seven EST and I would like to talk about how it happened and help you avoid a similar event in future..... I am looking forward to talking to you......

Ethan

This is the type of thing I love to see in an American company, There is a problem and its addressed to work toward a solution.... Well done:thumbup:

As for items that are commercially processed; if you buy enough of the same product over a long period of time you are bound to get a lemon. You have to look at it this way; Google Becker failures, I know they are few and far between.... take it for what its worth and dont be so quick to bash, let the manufacturer make things right.

Ive had failures with time tested products.... some through fault of my own and some that were just a lemon.

As to what others have said, maybe you would want to go with a BK2 or BK9 if you will be doing a large amount of bat toning, I have both knives and love them but use them for different tasks..... JMO
 
soooo...did the OP contact KB or Ethan? Outcome?

and Gaston can't use his knives. They are all warped, it seems.
 
I realize I'm a bit late to the party...but life...keeps me busy.

Before reading any of the posts, I looked at the pictures and said to my self, "Self, that pine has a lot of resin in it. That's no bueno." So, good on Ethan for offering to help. Also good to note possible poor batoning technique. I would go further than Bladite and suggest poor choice of wood. Pine resin makes for some really tough wood and is hard on a knife. It also makes the wood burn hotter and faster, two things I'm not looking for in firewood. Speaking of firewood, I'm in the camp that I process most firewood with fire. I use the smaller branches for kindling and anything smaller than 8" or so goes straight into the fire. Anything bigger needs and axe, not a knife. Why make life harder than it has to be?

Customer taken care of, and hopefully lessons learned by lots of folks. Sounds like a "win" to me.

Glad to see that Ethan/Kabar are going to get things sorted out :). I was pretty sure they'd handle it well (from seeing other past situations like this), but its always good to reaffirm something like that :thumbup:.

I was going to mention that about the wood too. It looks almost like the wood is solid (or at least with a higher percentage than normal) resin. It makes GREAT firestarting material, but it is harder to process down.

I used to baton all sorts of crazy things, as it was new, fun, and "cool" (and, I owned a BK2... what else do you do with a BK2 if not baton). Then I got a BK9, and batoned even BIGGER things, and never had a problem. Somewhere in the midst of all of that batoning, I found that it sometimes wasn't worth the effort that it took to split a piece.

For me, right now I typically only baton to start a fire. I also usually only baton straight grained smallish (2-4in diameter maybe?) wood for those situations. Just something big enough to get me enough kindling thats dry for a fire. While I know I can baton larger pieces, I've just gotten lazy, and found that I don't need to spend the time any energy for it most of the time (doing what I do).

If I were "processing" wood for something larger than a camp fire (like if I heated my house with wood), I'd be mostly using a chainsaw, splitter, and/or axe. Not because I feel that I am morally superior or something like that. Just because I'm lazy, and those are the fastest ways to get what I would need. That said, after I used all of those tools to cut and split everything, I'd keep a fixed blade in the kindling box to make more kindling if needed in a safe manner right by the stove.

TLDR: I think batoning is a great controlled way to make kindling. Just isn't the greatest/most efficient method to make "firewood".
 
/me ? i don't baton, because i'm lazy, and i can find dry tinder and twigs in quantity a lot faster :D

but when i do baton, i split 7.5 foot logs over and over to make boards

though i use wedges, including wedges made on the spot from found hard wood, shaped with axe and 4 and 10 lb hammers :D

no pile ons. it's a good time to learn. the canonical batoning video should appear any minute now. it explains the right way, and the wrong way

KaBar at this point has probably made more Beckers than any company previously aligned with Becker has. that's pretty damn cool.
 
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