Becker Brute Concensus

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The issue of how I made my point regarding the Ct out performing the Brute had been dead and dealt with for 10 days when cliff made 3 posts in a row bringing it back to light.

I don`t have any stock blades. I think that they can all be improved on and by discussing/sharing this info, maybe some makers/mfg will look at making these changes or considering them in the future.

My Brute does not chop well because Cliff says it does, it chops well because of a simple modification that helped it to reach its potential, I did not consult Cliff on this matter.

But I did talk with Cliff about the RTAK and the recommended edge thickness for chopping on that blade.(in the general discussion forum under the title: "silk purse out of a sows ear")http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=335833&highlight=silk+purse

I do not remeber saying that the brute would be good for vegetation, so I think we agree on that.

I use my blades everyday, as many here do I`m sure, I do not wait for or rely on someone telling me my blade is good or bad, even though in the past I have used Cliff`s reviews to look at various products, I no longer do that, and do not feel the need to further highjack this thread discussing why.
 
Yeah, this should be taken off forum. There's enough bulls**t going on in this world to have to read it here too.
 
longbow50 said:
Yeah, this should be taken off forum. There's enough bulls**t going on in this world to have to read it here too.


Agreed,

everything here could have been done better, I accept responsibility for my part in it.

chalk this one up to experience,

No mas
 
Yeah, this discussion is getting a little too personal and off-track. I'm going to leave it open for now, but if it goes personal again, I'll have to lock it.

~B.
 
scfishr said:
The issue of how I made my point regarding the Ct out performing the Brute had been dead and dealt with for 10 days
There was no mention of it in this thread where you attacked another forum member for noting performance on stock blades which was opposite what you saw on modified blades. The fact alone that you were comparing modified to stock would make such a line of reasoning invalid anyway, not to mention the fact that you ignore different woods (you can easily see two blades swap performance if you go from seasoned oak to live pine), different methods, different physical ability, etc. .

Have you at some other place described exactly what modifications you made including the measurements which show that both blades were thinned to the same profile, ok, but there was no mention of it here nor no link made. While it is obvious to you as you did it, lots of people will see this thread as their first post and then read what you say with no background information at all. Consider then what they take from the thread.

I had this discussion with Will York a few years back, it spread into a few threads, the idea was how do you deal with issues like resharpening and then modifications because you can radically alter the stock performance. I can take a $10 machete and a $1000 custom and sharpen the machete so it outcuts the custom, this could easily be misinterpreted by a reader especially if I didn't make it really clear that it was not a blade comparison but a geometry one.

When dealing with productions and customs, you also want to have an open dialogue with the makers, with the blades you critize for having a low cutting ability have verified that the geometry that you got initially was the expected one? There are variances in knives, get them under thin and they can fail prematurely, over thick and they won't cut well, this happens even with the best customs.

Back to the origional post, if you want something similar to the Brute but a lot cheaper, Tramontina and Martindale both made really nice solid bolo's. The Martindale is 3/16" with a distal taper, the tramontina is 1/8". Both are likely to require sharpening and odds are 15 minutes of file work, or a couple of minutes on a belt sander to set a proper edge. Daren Cutsforth sells the Martindales and could probably reset the edge initially.

The Tramontina bolo has been one of my primary brush knives for a few years now, the SHBM works better on thick woods, but the bolo handles limbing just as well, had more reach, and quite frankly is less of a concern when grubbing low around rocks, I have wore off more than 1/4" of steel from resharpening, but who cares, it is like $10.

-Cliff
 
Cliff,

Thanks for taking the time to communicate your thoughts.

I have found the Tramontina`s on sale for 8.00 bucks a piece, went ahead and ordered 4 different sizes, I have 3 boys that will love helping me to clear a trail.

I believe that your response is based on fact and experience.

We were not talking about the same thing, even though we were talking about the same thing.

Communication is KING.

i hope the fella that started this thread is able to make a better decision inspite of the long way around the trail.

This stuff is too much fun to get hot and bothered,

To anyone that I may have offended, I apologize, accidental, incidental or otherwise,

Have fun and rock on :D
 
For large brush blades check ebay from time to time, you can find blades there really cheap if you are willing to live with nicked handles, blade rust and so on. You can often pick up blades so cheap that you are essentially just paying for shipping. Blade rust is a real winner as often it makes blades get heavily discounted and most times it is just cosmetic.

-Cliff
 
Wow some heated discussion here. I still feel that the Brute is one hell of an all round survival blade....Brute by name, Brute by nature !;):thumbup:
 
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I just love necro treads, I really do :)

On a side note, there have been a lot of them lately, haven't there ?
 
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