Beckerhead Knife Making and Modification Thread

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At the suggestion of....myself, and so we don't alienate people who want to snark in the snark thread, especially poor Gunyon, who's forbearance is wearing thin with all this talk about craft in what should be a comic relief thread, this thread will be dedicated to the (as the title suggests) making and modification of knives. Let's try and keep it relevant to BK&T, Beckerheads and such. I realize a lot of us have started making from scratch (not me.....yet), and I certainly think that sort of thing is welcome, but let's try and get some Becker content in here now and then. Obviously, I don't wanna step on anybody's toes and feel free to start your own threads if you're modding, but throw a link or pic or something here as well. I'm hoping that the pros and semi-pros in the 'Head community will chime in as well; I know I've benefited greatly from the knowledge of our custom makers.

I think I'm gonna reserve the next post for some permanent links for some of those threads lost to about page 50 or so, and the 3rd post will be...you guessed it: a question for y'all.
 
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OK, first topic: How would you suggest finishing homemade canvas "my"carta? I've successfully made some (I think) but I'm concerned that the cotton will bleed color onto my hands, as it's showing a little proclivity to do so already.

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I also don't want the purple dye to bleed into the orange cloth. Like I said, it's cotton duck canvas made with 3M fiberglass resin. Anyone got some ideas?
 

james terrio

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...poor Gunyon, who's forbearance is wearing thin with all this talk about craft in what should be a comic relief thread, this thread will be dedicated to the (as the title suggests) making and modification of knives...

Does that mean I shouldn't be a smartypants in this thread about craft? *sigh* I'll give it a try...

...I'm concerned that the cotton will bleed color onto my hands, as it's showing a little proclivity to do so already...

One of the many problems with making "my-carta" is that you really don't know all the chemistry you're dealing with, and how it will all react together. There's a reason the "real" top-quality stuff is patented and people pay good money for it ;)

If the dye from the cloth you used is actually bleeding out after being exposed to the epoxy you used, that's not a good sign. I wouldn't do anything at all with it until it settles down. If I were you, I would keep it in a dry/room-temperature place away from UV light until it stops changing properties. Then again, strong UV radiation might be just what it needs to set... we just don't know at this point (that's unlikely, but you get the idea). It may take 2 days to cure up, or it may never cure up. Humidity is going to be a factor... lower is usually better in that regard. Until the piece is really for-sure solid and stable, there's no point even cutting it, much less putting it on a knife.

I'm sorry to be such a Debbie Downer so early in this promising thread, but... you asked. :eek: Who knows, it may set up just fine and turn out to be tough as woodpecker lips.
 
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It won't bleed and you will get some stubborn foggy spot which is a pain in the butt to get rid of.
 
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Does that mean I shouldn't be a smartypants in this thread about craft? *sigh* I'll give it a try...
You...or anyone else....is/are totally welcome to be a smartypants. So long as you provide something to the discussion. And by something, I mean anything, relevant or not.

One of the many problems with making "my-carta" is that you really don't know all the chemistry you're dealing with, and how it will all react together. There's a reason the "real" top-quality stuff is patented and people pay good money for it ;)

If the dye from the cloth you used is actually bleeding out after being exposed to the epoxy you used, that's not a good sign. I wouldn't do anything at all with it until it settles down. If I were you, I would keep it in a dry/room-temperature place away from UV light until it stops changing properties. Then again, strong UV radiation might be just what it needs to set... we just don't know at this point (that's unlikely, but you get the idea). It may take 2 days to cure up, or it may never cure up. Humidity is going to be a factor... lower is usually better in that regard. Until the piece is really for-sure solid and stable, there's no point even cutting it, much less putting it on a knife.

I'm sorry to be such a Debbie Downer so early in this promising thread, but... you asked. :eek: Who knows, it may set up just fine and turn out to be tough as woodpecker lips.
I thought your name was James....
I think it's set up, I was just wundrin' how one finishes it after it's been shaped. Au Naturel? Some carnauba wax? Coupla coats of poly? It seems pretty stable, it's just that when I wiped it with alcohol to remove the sanding dust and to show the color, it bled onto the paper towel a little.
 

james terrio

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...I was just wundrin' how one finishes it after it's been shaped. Au Naturel? Some carnauba wax? Coupla coats of poly?

Ask ten makers and you'll get ten answers ;) The whole idea behind stabilized materials and laminates like that is they don't really need a surface finish to protect them, like most natural woods do. I generally sand 'em with higher and higher grits until I get tired of sanding 'em, and then wipe 'em down with Danish oil and burnish them a couple times to make the colors "pop" and increase the sheen.
 
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Ask ten makers and you'll get ten answers ;) The whole idea behind stabilized materials and laminates like that is they don't really need a surface finish to protect them, like most natural woods do. I generally sand 'em with higher and higher grits until I get tired of sanding 'em, and then wipe 'em down with Danish oil to make the color "pop" and increase the sheen.
OK, that's what I was wundrin'! Danish oil is a finish....sounds like a good plan.
 
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Thanks for linking my thread Mike.

I just added some more content.

Jeremy
 
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Thanks for linking my thread Mike.

I just added some more content.

Jeremy

Excellent! Imma check it out right now.

Maybe you should have mixed some hardener in with the resin. :D
Oh....No wonder it's still all goopy and kinda floppy....hardener, huh? Was that the stuff in the little tube? I thought that was just the "20% MORE for the SAME PRICE!" marketing hype. Next time, I guess....
 
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Thanks Mike!!

I feel special now :D

Ill get some more pictures up showing the progress i made in a few.. Its not as much as id like, i been busy!!
 

Guyon

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Okay, I'll play. I have a Marbles machete tradewater picked up for me at SMKW. After using it all of once, the crappy handles are loose. I have some mahogany I'd like to use for replacement, but I wonder about the best (easiest) way to pin the new scales. Aluminum bolts I grind down smooth?

One of the many problems with making "my-carta" is that you really don't know all the chemistry you're dealing with, and how it will all react together. There's a reason the "real" top-quality stuff is patented and people pay good money for it ;)

Tell me about it. I've been eyeing the TKC scales for a full-size Becker, but I can't rationalize $60 for scales.
 
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Okay, I'll play. I have a Marbles machete tradewater picked up for me at SMKW. After using it all of once, the crappy handles are loose. I have some mahogany I'd like to use for replacement, but I wonder about the best (easiest) way to pin the new scales. Aluminum bolts I grind down smooth?



Tell me about it. I've been eyeing the TKC scales for a full-size Becker, but I can't rationalize $60 for scales.

It would probably be easier to just get some brass or steel pins. nothing to grind down then. I have some brass pins in 1/8"... if you would like a piece send me your address and ill send it out next time im at the post office. You will just have to cut it to size. If interested let me know how many inches you need for the handle on the machete.

I was told to also use epoxy, so i got some T-88 epoxy and ill be using it and the brass pins on the ones i do.
 
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Okay, I'll play. I have a Marbles machete tradewater picked up for me at SMKW. After using it all of once, the crappy handles are loose. I have some mahogany I'd like to use for replacement, but I wonder about the best (easiest) way to pin the new scales. Aluminum bolts I grind down smooth?

If you're epoxying the new scales on, the pins just add a way to keep the scales from shifting during the glue-up, and to prevent shear forces from knocking the scales off...Obviously this is coming from a near complete amateur, but I'd go with epoxy (to hold them on reel gud) and some brass (or SS) pins in whatever size the holes are that are already there. I find brass rod (& tube!) at the local ACE hardware store.

Tell me about it. I've been eyeing the TKC scales for a full-size Becker, but I can't rationalize $60 for scales.
Yah, it's much easier and cheaper to buy canvas, resin, make a mold and spend your afternoon making and shaping your own.....I mean, why buy them when you can make something half as nice for twice as much and cover the stuff in your garage with resin dust as an added bonus? Don't ask me....'cause obviously that math is way beyond my comprehension. Evidently.

It would probably be easier to just get some brass or steel pins. nothing to grind down then. I have some brass pins in 1/8"... if you would like a piece send me your address and ill send it out next time im at the post office. You will just have to cut it to size. If interested let me know how many inches you need for the handle on the machete.
I was told to also use epoxy, so i got some T-88 epoxy and ill be using it and the brass pins on the ones i do.

But you'll still have to grind (or file) them flush. Nice thing about brass is it's relatively soft, and pretty easy to work with a file.
 
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But you'll still have to grind (or file) them flush. Nice thing about brass is it's relatively soft, and pretty easy to work with a file.

Indeed. I meant he wouldnt have to grind them like he would a bolt.

But yea, i plan on filing them flush most likely. Or using a dremel sanding drum until the get pretty close to flush and finishing them off with the file..... Im not to this point yet though so i have no real experience yet LMAO
 

daizee

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I sand to 360 or 600 and then wax to bring out the color. Eventually the oils from your hand provide the darkening. Haven't had any color leakage yet on 710's mycarta - you prolly just have to wait a few more days as JT says. The block looks great, btw.

In on 1!
I'll post something here shortly for funsies.
 
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I sand to 360 or 600 and then wax to bring out the color. Eventually the oils from your hand provide the darkening. Haven't had any color leakage yet on 710's mycarta - you prolly just have to wait a few more days as JT says. The block looks great, btw.

In on 1!
I'll post something here shortly for funsies.
Thanks!
So what type of drill (or end mill) might one use on 1095CV to open up the bolt holes? I'm trying to get them to ¼" but feel like it might take until tomorrow if I apply gentle pressure for the rest of the night.
 
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Thanks!
So what type of drill (or end mill) might one use on 1095CV to open up the bolt holes? I'm trying to get them to ¼" but feel like it might take until tomorrow if I apply gentle pressure for the rest of the night.

Now im going to go down and see how hard it is to drill a hole larger in hardened 5160 just for funsies LMAO and because my arm is tired from filing LOL
 
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