Beckerhead Mon/Wed Alternate-side Snarking

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daizee said:
Evidence!
The little board is just the right size for the biggest thing I'll use it for: a 2LB block of cheddar!
Which goes on the chili, of course.

IMG_20120911_195944-small.jpg


mmmm....

Got a new post up in the makers gallery too.

-Daizee
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Care to share how you put that together? I have some ideas, but not sure on the best way to go about doing something like that. I've got some nice walnut and ash that I'd like to piece together that would make a great looking cutting board.
 
mrn8 said:
Care to share how you put that together? I have some ideas, but not sure on the best way to go about doing something like that. I've got some nice walnut and ash that I'd like to piece together that would make a great looking cutting board.
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Oh yes, it's quite easy!
The summary is simple, and I'll see if I can find a pic or two:

1) select your woods. If you can start with pieces with realtively smooth upward-facing surfaces, this will be a help. So will flat, parallel sides. Much less prep work, tho if you have a small bandsaw or tablesaw with a fence you could rip your own in a jiff. The pieces don't all have to be the same length at this point. It's easier to trim them to match after they're one piece (within reason...)

2) find a FLAT surface on which to do your gluing. I use a 12" square marble tile as a poor man's surface plate. Then I'd put down wax paper or something

3) Lay out your wood, cutting side DOWN. Shmear quality wood glue all over the mating surfaces between the pieces and press them together gently

4) clamp with bar clamps. at least two. more if appropriate. Make sure you tighten them enough that glue squeezes out of all the joints - you'll clean that up later.

5) go to bed

6) bound out of bed, run down the stairs like a kid at christmas, and pull the clamps off. (this is very important, hence the explicit step)

7) trim the ends to length with whatever tool you have. If you're using a band or table saw, you'll put the cutting side down 'cause it's flattest.

8) Sand. The bottom doesn't have to be perfect, but I've done the top at 80, 120, and 220. Also all the visible perimeter and the corners as well. I have a nice little random orbital sander. Use fresh abrasive or you'll be at it for hours.

9) wipe with a damp rag or paper towel, then cut the raised grain off with steel wool. Wipe clean.

10) when dry, apply mineral oil. Do this several times.

11) Cut the cheese.


Here's the lamination process for the first one I made (larger, oak and mahogany):

IMG_20120615_143750-small.jpg


and sanding the small one - not much to look at, but there's the sander and board pre-oil:

IMG_20120909_173824-small.jpg



I put little rubber sticker feet on the 4 corners to make 'em stay put on the counter. They've held well so far.
If you have either good scrap wood to start with (my case), or a saw to trim things quickly, this is a nice project that can be completed in only 2-3 hours of actual working time. Most of the extra time is spent picking wood or waiting for the glue to dry.
 
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Would've been it's own thread if I had the sense to get pics, but since I didn't, I'll just have to tell you all about it. Monday night the Major and I had set out to work our Scouts on how to start a fire with nothing but a knife and a firesteel. IAWoodsman had a post awhile back on the subject, and it got me to thinking that our boys could use some practice, so Monday night we sat outside and had everyone start a fire using nothing more than natural materials, firesteel, and a knife (or the scraper on the firesteel) and it was a huge success. In attendance were two BK16's, a BK14 (which was the fave for use) and a BK11. I brought along some fatwood so they would have a little extra edge, but with that, some cattail fluff, and some tree bark, everyone was able to get a fire going. It was a great time, and we even got some of the other adult leaders to give it a go.
 
Excellent, thanks! I wasn't sure if you ran a dowel through the boards for extra strength, but if wood glue will hold well, it's much easier that way.
 
mrn8 said:
Excellent, thanks! I wasn't sure if you ran a dowel through the boards for extra strength, but if wood glue will hold well, it's much easier that way.
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Wood glue, properly applied, is often stronger than the wood itself (depending on the wood, I presume). Obviously you want to make sure the wood is thick enough to offer enough laminating surface too.
Unless you're making a chopping block for your kitchen axe, you should be set.
 
DerekH said:
Would've been it's own thread if I had the sense to get pics, but since I didn't, I'll just have to tell you all about it. Monday night the Major and I had set out to work our Scouts on how to start a fire with nothing but a knife and a firesteel. IAWoodsman had a post awhile back on the subject, and it got me to thinking that our boys could use some practice, so Monday night we sat outside and had everyone start a fire using nothing more than natural materials, firesteel, and a knife (or the scraper on the firesteel) and it was a huge success. In attendance were two BK16's, a BK14 (which was the fave for use) and a BK11. I brought along some fatwood so they would have a little extra edge, but with that, some cattail fluff, and some tree bark, everyone was able to get a fire going. It was a great time, and we even got some of the other adult leaders to give it a go.
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That's cook, DH. Any time teaching kids how to do without technology to survive is well worth it. Last weekend, I had my son start our first campfire using the waxed cotton balls he made and a firesteel. Then we went from pencil-lead, to pencil, to thumb, to split log-sized wood in very short time. Now I have to teach him how my make good coffee and bacon.

daizee said:
Wood glue, properly applied, is often stronger than the wood itself (depending on the wood, I presume). Obviously you want to make sure the wood is thick enough to offer enough laminating surface too.
Unless you're making a chopping block for your kitchen axe, you should be set.
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What I have is 1x boards that I only need about 2/3 the length for another project. I think I'll do a cutting board with the rest.
 
Titebond 2 or 3 are the best glues I've found for things like cutting boards.
if you want to cut down your sanding time, about 1/2 hour after the glue-up, scrape off the rubbery squeeze-out.
 
I was playing with my daughter in the living room today when I noticed we had a little visitor sitting on my couch. I was able to catch him and I set him down in the sink for a quick pic before I released him outside. BK-14 for size comparison:

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Got my Fenix LD10 in today. Love this thing. Here it is side by side with the JetBeam BA10:

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Slightly shorter than the JetBeam:

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Silverthorn said:
Whats the difference in life span, lumens and price Dubs ?
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Fenix LD10 was $39.99 shipped, the JetBeam BA10 was $25 shipped, on clearance. Lumens for the Fenix, 2 modes with 6 types of output.

General mode - 9 lumens (34 hours) - 47 lumens (6 hours) - 94 lumens (2.2 hours) - SOS signaling. Turbo mode - 120 lumens constant (1.5 hours) - strobe. All figures using 2500 mah Ni-mh battery.

BA10, Modes: Lumens: Run Time:
High___160____1 hr 15 min
Lo_____12_____30 hrs.
 
The Warrior said:
Fenix LD10 was $39.99 shipped, the JetBeam BA10 was $25 shipped, on clearance. Lumens for the Fenix, 2 modes with 6 types of output.

General mode - 9 lumens (34 hours) - 47 lumens (6 hours) - 94 lumens (2.2 hours) - SOS signaling. Turbo mode - 120 lumens constant (1.5 hours) - strobe. All figures using 2500 mah Ni-mh battery.

BA10, Modes: Lumens: Run Time:
High___160____1 hr 15 min
Lo_____12_____30 hrs.
Click to expand...


Sounds complicated to me, but I like the octogonal bezel.
Gimme high & low, non-rolling bezel, and quality glass and I'm happy. I don't currently have any two-mode lights.
 
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