Beckerstone National Snark.....CHAT

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thrillbilly said:
A lot of Team Lift items aren't designated as such because of Weight, but because they are Bulky/Large and difficult to lift in the ''proper'' manner by one person.
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TB knows.....he is one of those things that requires a Team Lift. Friggin' ogres.
 
dubs - I have to ask what you're wanting to do with it.
first, do you want to stain it, or just seal it.
if just sealing wood with a little color and no worries about hard use, Watco "danish oil" is the easiest thing I know of -- it works great for countertops & the like and is dead simple to touch up in the future.
if staining, minwax is decent stuff, follow the instructions on the label and hit it with 2 layers of poly urethane afterwards.
if it's going to be used in an outdoor or otherwise wet environment, spar varnish is the way to go (it's not as hard or durable a finish, but has some flex so it can handle temperature and humidity extremes better)
my preferred method for finishing wood with poly is to put some in a jar mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits -- that's the first coat or 2. thinning it lets it soak in deeper. after that, 2 more coats of full strength.
I don't sand past 220 grit before staining, and only lightly scuff with steel wool or 400 grit paper between coats.
If you're working with something more open grain than pine, after the first thin coat, I'll wet sand with 400 grit paper and the poly -- this fills the pores of the wood with sawdust and sealer so your top coats lay down flatter.
 
Pine can be tricky Dub. It gets a spotchy look if you don't watch out. I've had good luck with Watco Danish oil. Comes in several colors and is a one step stain/finish.
 
Thanks 1066vik. I want to stain/seal the handle on my Marbles Camp cleaver. It's pine.
 
I'll have to look into that. Thanks gents, appreciated. I wanted something that would somewhat protect it from the elements. This Camp Cleaver is coming along quite nicely, except I'm having a hell of a time getting all the paint off. I've sanded on the same area for an probably an hour, and it still doesn't come off. I used Citrustrip to get the varnish and paint off the wood. It's making me wonder if some of the residual paint didn't soak into the soft pine? 100 grit wasn't even getting it out.
 
tradewater said:
Pine can be tricky Dub. It gets a spotchy look if you don't watch out. I've had good luck with Watco Danish oil. Comes in several colors and is a one step stain/finish.
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I was reading about the splotchy stuff. They recommended a conditioner before staining. Danish oil it is.
 
I hand sanded it to 220, was hoping that was good. 100, 150, to 220. Spent a lot of time on that handle. I modded it, filed, and sanded it. I just have to apply a finish to it, and do something to the blade. I was going to do a mustard patina, but am thinking I may do an apple cider vinegar soak. I liked the result of that on my Sub Zero.

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That axe looks pretty sweet Dubz.

I need to work on my pawn-shop axe some more, and give it a good sharpening.
 
I'm back in the house finally. Been a fun last couple of days with the Fam Damily. :D

Will be back in full swing in a day or two.

Using knives is fun.

:D

Moose
 
Moosez45 said:
I'm back in the house finally. Been a fun last couple of days with the Fam Damily. :D

Will be back in full swing in a day or two.

Using knives is fun.

:D

Moose
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Good to see ya back Moose. Yeah, yeah, I know, kiss ass. :D
 
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