Best full tang stainless bowie <$300?

The Holosun 508T (I have both the red and green versions) is an excellent optic. It’s sort of an Aimpoint killer. Nothing will top an Aimpoint (like a T1 or T2) but Holosuns come close, with more features at half the price. PM me for the place to buy these at the best price on the internet.

Another great red dot is the Aimpoint PRO. It’s big and bulky and meant for a rifle (I have these on a few ARs) but well priced and the build quality is off the charts
I saved the emails I received for the new thread posts on red dots. Thank you rlewpolar, and Cobalt. This information is very helpful. As for my CC pistol, the Kydex IWB holster is cut for an optic. Honestly, even though it's an extremely reliable 4" double stack 9mm, it's a really inexpensive 9mm pistol. I might clean it up and sell it, especially since it comes with a custom Kydex holster, that is perfectly moulded for my light+laser combo, which I would sell with it. I could then buy a better 9mm CC pistol. Since I'm a big guy, I've learned that I would actually prefer to carry a full size pistol (4.5" to 5" barrel), as they're actually more comfortable to sit down with. I also have an inexpensive compact 9mm CC pistol (with the same light+laser combo and custom Kydex IWB sheath). I really hate that handgun. It's completely useless to me. That said, someone else would definitely want the total package, so I'd sell it as well. Despite their renowned reliability, I'm not a Glock guy, due to the strange grip angle. I've heard good things about Canik, Walther, Smith & Wesson M&P, Heckler & Koch, & Springfield XDM's. Those would likely be my choices.

BTW, if either of you are having difficulty finding custom Kydex holsters, I formed a relationship with a customer manufacturer, who genuinely makes the best custom Kydex holsters and knife sheaths I've ever seen. His Kydex holsters are thicker, and less expensive than any mass marketed Kydex holsters. He can make any type of holster, based on your pistol make and model, plus accessories, as long as the accessories are from well known name brands. For Kydex knife sheaths, you would have to send him the knife or knives. That said, I guarantee he can make a better Kydex knife sheath than Cleveland Kydex, or any other Kydex knife sheath brands, and the sheath will cost significantly less $. If you'd like a referral, PM me.
 
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How about a dry bag like kayakers use?
Put all your water sensitive RLSS gear in there and not worry.
Or even a waterproof hard container.

I mean, I get it, DDD wants a new knife. That’s why we’re all here lol.
But after 8 pages it seems pretty clear to me that we are chasing a unicorn.
Bowie & stainless don’t seem to go together. Less than $300, even more so.
So, what to do?
First let’s decide priorities (no wrong answers here, think of it as a fork in the road).
New knife or well prepared RLSS truck tailgate kit?
If the choice is new knife, then Bubba’s your cuzzin & the choices are many (with the caveats above).
Once one lets go of the stainless requirement the options open up.
As for rust, if you can maintain your firearm and tools, you can maintain a camp knife. I saltwater boat fished for years before the internet with a Schrade Sharpfinger. It looked like an old hammer & got used plenty for cutting bait and cleaning piles of 5-8 lb bluefish. The only time it got orange rust was after a day of too much sun and beer. That powdery coat of orange came off with some 000 steel wool and WD 40. It’s a tool after all.

Look at what the Vikings accomplished with carbon steel and open boats :)

If the choice is RLSS ready truck, then DDD is half way there with his Ontario machete. Add a 18” camp axe and call it done.* In another thread I suggested a GB Small Forest Axe without realizing how stupid the prices have become. I’m sure similar exists.

*Throw in a saw as well. SvenSaws don’t take up much room. Better a 24” bow saw but I don’t know how much space there is.
I don't think he is the OP. So we have two different people looking for different knives with kind of the same theme.

And there are plenty of sub $300 full tang stainless bowies. That are fine to use.

The cudermans the muleas the jokers Aitor? all do sub $300 bowies in stainless.

Those same companies also do the same quality stainless knives in drop points and all sorts of shapes for people who don't like bowies.

And there has been options for over $300 super steels and carbon with the cavat that you might need some rust prevention.

So hardly an impossible choice.

Stainless sub $300 bowie. Works fine.

The issue we have is as knife nerds we think that a 440 or bohler range of stainless steel in a non full tang isn't going to work for survivaling

And honestly it will probably do fine. Unless you absolutely manhandle it.
 
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I don't think he is the OP. So we have two different people looking for different knives with kind of the same theme.

And there are plenty of sub $300 full tang stainless bowies. That are fine to use.

The cudermans the muleas the jokers Aitor? all do sub $300 bowies in stainless.

Those same companies also do the same quality stainless knives in drop points and all sorts of shapes for people who don't like bowies.

And there has been options for over $300 super steels and carbon with the cavat that you might need some rust prevention.

So hardly an impossible choice.

Stainless sub $300 bowie. Works fine.

The issue we have is as knife nerds we think that a 440 or bohler range of stainless steel in a non full tang isn't going to work for survivaling

And honestly it will probably do fine. Unless you absolutely manhandle it.
I'm still leaning towards the Joker Nomad 6.5", unless someone has a better suggestion that's in the $150-200 range.
 
I'm still leaning towards the Joker Nomad 6.5", unless someone has a better suggestion that's in the $150-200 range.

I definitely confused you with OP, sorry about that, this AISI 440C bowie may work for one or both of you:

ME-977-G10A_01_maserin-me-977-g10a-01

ME-977-G10A_06_maserin-me-977-g10a-06
 
I like the Maserin and Cudeman fixed blades, but all their fixed blades appear to be low ground.
 
Low ground? Do you mean low saber grind?
What do you all think of Kizlyar knives? They have some great blade designs. However, they typically use AUS-8 or 420HC. My understanding is that AUS-8 is a slight step down from 440C, and Bohler N695 is a slight step up from 440C. Bohler N695 seems to be on par with AUS-10, which was the stainless steel I was looking for.
 
Low ground? Do you mean low saber grind?
I've always been wary of D2 steel, but it seems like a good option, provided it's actually D2 steel. D2 is partially stainless. If the blade is coated, it should be fine. I see so many survival knives listed as D2, but I have no idea if the steel mixture is actually D2. It seems to be the go-to steel for inexpensive Chinese knives. I suspect some knife companies do it better than others, but I don't know which manufacturers I can trust.
 
What do you all think of Kizlyar knives? They have some great blade designs. However, they typically use AUS-8 or 420HC. My understanding is that AUS-8 is a slight step down from 440C, and Bohler N695 is a slight step up from 440C. Bohler N695 seems to be on par with AUS-10, which was the stainless steel I was looking for.

I have had many aus8 knives and all have been tough. I own 420hc and like it as well. I own N695, but havent used it much. But I tend to like all the aus series, and 440 series and bohler makes excellent steel. Would not worry me to much.
 
I have had many aus8 knives and all have been tough. I own 420hc and like it as well. I own N695, but havent used it much. But I tend to like all the aus series, and 440 series and bohler makes excellent steel. Would not worry me to much.
Thanks. Kizlyar is a bit more expensive than Joker. I'll have to compare the different models.
 
I have had many aus8 knives and all have been tough. I own 420hc and like it as well. I own N695, but havent used it much. But I tend to like all the aus series, and 440 series and bohler makes excellent steel. Would not worry me to much.
Apparently D2 steel has 12% chromium, which is enough to be considered stainless. I did not know that. I thought it was a tool steel. I suspect with 1.5% carbon, it will still rust. I'll have to look into a bit more. If a D2 knife is tougher than N695, it would be a good option, provided I can actually sharpen it without an electric belt or grinding wheel sharpener.
 
Apparently D2 steel has 12% chromium, which is enough to be considered stainless. I did not know that. I thought it was a tool steel. I suspect with 1.5% carbon, it will still rust. I'll have to look into a bit more. If a D2 knife is tougher than N695, it would be a good option, provided I can actually sharpen it without an electric belt or grinding wheel sharpener.

High carbon stainless steel definition typically is 12.5 to 13% Chrome content. So D2 falls just under that. However, my experience with both D2 and ats34 which has more chrome is that they are very close in resistance to corrosion. D2 done right is an excellent steel. Unfortunately, pakistan is giving it a bad name.
 
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High carbon stainless steel definition typically is 12.5 to 13%. So D2 falls just under that. However, my experience with both D2 and ats34 which has more chrome is that they are very close in resistance to corrosion. D2 done right is an excellent steel. Unfortunately, pakistan is giving it a bad name.
It seems that way. Very few of the reputable knife manufacturers, make D2 blades. And when they do, they're typically folders.
 
High carbon stainless steel definition typically is 12.5 to 13%. So D2 falls just under that. However, my experience with both D2 and ats34 which has more chrome is that they are very close in resistance to corrosion. D2 done right is an excellent steel. Unfortunately, pakistan is giving it a bad name.
I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one. High Carbon steel is 0.6% to 1.5% carbon. 1095 high carbon steel is 0.95%. Even the toughest tool steels, don't have a carbon content above 1.5%. If someone was to actually mix 13% carbon with iron, is suspect it would crumble. I'm not a metallurgist, but I don't think it could be feasible.
 
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