Best Slingshot?

**Bump, because slingshots are awesome**

I recently picked up a Flippin' Out "Axiom" sling:

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I have one of the "Scout" models that I picked up last year, and I've been really impressed with it. So of course I eventually started looking at some of their other models, and thinking that a slightly smaller, slimmer sling would be a nice addition to the quiver - easy to slip in a pocket, etc. which is why I settled on the Axiom (they make some even smaller models). I put new bands on it today and spent some time shooting it. It's a really great little sling, made out of indestructable polycarbonate, and easy to carry.

Here are a couple comparison shots with the Scout, for anyone thinking about getting one of these (Scout on the left):

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While it may be hard to tell in the pic, the Scout is slightly longer and wider, with more fork spread than the Axiom. But the real difference is in the grip and overall thickness between the two, which can be seen here:

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Next project is building a catchbox/target for shooting inside to get me through the winter... :rolleyes:
 
Okay, I'm sold on the theraband slingshots and want to buy one. My main use will be hunting rabbits while camping/survival and plinking. I have a budget of $30 and am looking at Triplewireslingshots on Ebay. He uses HDPE and plywood. I have a few questions:

Is HDPE a decent material? Will it hold up to hard use?

What is the difference between the Hammerhead style and regular style?

I don't care about finish. I just want a utilitarian slingshot that is powerful and accurate. Which slingshot is the most conducive to power/accuracy for under $30?

I already cast bullets so will do lead ammo for the sling too. I'm probably just going to get a 2 cavity lee mold. What diameter would be best for rabbit?

Thanks!
 
Its all abought the bands. The slingshot is just a frame to hold the bands. So what ever frame lets you hold consistant, and comfortable is the right one.

Flat bands are the fastest/ most powerfully for there pull. Tubes last the longest. The small diameter tubes are called China tubes and are a fare compromise in power and longevity. Chained Rubber bands have also been used with fair success and are very thrifty.

Rubber delivers power slightly different than a bow. It is more about length of pull than pounds of draw. Thin rubber retracts faster than fat rubber. Also because the rubber has less mass than the projectile, it takes time/distance to build up to speed. Of course stretching the rubber to its max every time shortens its life. I make bands that will work for most folks. They can be stretched to around 47"max. The bands work fine for 28" to 34" as set.
You can tune the slingshot to get better power by shortening them. Tera-band (the flat bands) has a stretch factor of about 5 to 1. To make then last longer I use a 3.9 to 1 stretch factor. I draw 28" so I shorten my bands to 7.25 fork to pouch. This make for a fast shooting band that last about 1000 Shots. Most of the time when the rubber starts to fail it is near the pouch, right at the tie off. You can remove the bands and retie them adjust them on the slingshot and get another few hundred shots. Keep the bands out of the sun light when your not using them. Storing them in the frig will make them keep for a long time.
Hope this is helpful.
Semper Fidelus.
Mike
bikermikearchery
 
Great advice, Mike. :thumbup:

As far as rabbit hunting loads go (and small game in general), you don't need anything really heavy, imo. Accuracy is more important than a really heavy load. And if you're shooting lead, it's going to be heavier than steel for the same diameter. You're probably fine with 3/8" - 7/16."

Here's a quick little video explaining different types of grips:

[video=youtube;9IMxmJ20GAU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IMxmJ20GAU[/video]
 
I see that some slingshots have the bands wrapped around the sides while others wrap over the top. What is the difference?

I'm not sure that there is a performance difference with one over the other, at least I've never noticed much of a difference. But someone more knowledgeable than me might be able to add more.
 
Ingredients for a simple and cheap slingshot catchbox:

2 3/4" dowels
4 3/4" rubber end caps
1 Rubbermaid 'Action Packer' storage bin
P-cord
A couple cans
A thick towel
Krusty

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Cut the dowels so that they will wedge tightly into the box once the rubber end caps are added - one dowel farther back, and one toward the front.

Hang the towel over the rear dowel, making sure there is still at least a few inches between the towel and the back of the box. Rig a couple lengths of p-cord to the front dowel, and suspend stuff from them.

Add Krusty (optional).

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You could also drill holes into the box for placing/suspend various things, but I opted to not alter the box and still be able to use it for other things. And there you go - when its too cold to shoot outside, you no longer have any excuses. :D
 
Hey all, first post here. Thanks for all the info that I've already found and hopefully for answers to questions I may ask.

I was wondering if anyone has ever shot a Y-Shot from Montie Gear.
I'm afraid these are a bit out of my price range, but I like the design.

If they shoot as awesome as they look, I'd like to try to make something similar.

BTW, my current slingshots include a Trumark FS-1 with stock bands and a Daisy with Trumark RP-T hi-velocity tapered bands.
I bought the FS-1 on the online auction, bundled with a RR-2 heavy pull band, for under $20.
I'm not sure what model Daisy I have, but it was under $5 at the supercenter.
I removed the plastic grip and I'm attempting to paracord it. Any tips for wrapping an open handle?

I have some designs in mind for building a few slingshots, just need to allocate the time.
 
[sarcasm]Wow, thanks for all the answers to my questions.[/sarcasm] LOL!

Anyways, I found a decent place to get steel shot.
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I bought 600+ 5/16" shot just under $16 bucks.
And he threw in some 10.5 MM and 7/16" samples.

http://ballbaron.com

Here's a picture of my Daisy
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I've also got a Dankung clone and a Dankung 1745 loop band coming.
 
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