Best tactical fighting/survival knife

If you have to buy at Cabelas or Dicks Sporting Goods, I would take the sog field pup of 43$
But if I were you I would go to Ragnar and buy a mora triflex craftman of 11$ for the survival course.

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If you really would like to spend more you can go for the mora 2000

http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html
 
corwise said:
What sort of envirnoment are you planning to use it in, Alaska or just keep it in your car for the end of civilization?
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:D ROFL

After stop laughing, I agree with the comment that there's a lot of questions to be asked (and answered) before choosing "THE ONE".
In my case, I would probably choose a big back pack with reinforced seams in order to take them all... or at least some of them. I'm a bad decider.

Short list

BRKT Bravo-2
Becker BK-7
Ontario RAT-7
Cold Steel Recon Scout
BUCK 119
Buck Nighthawk 6.5"

And a couple of Moras for small tasks (911 Carbon, 711 Carbon, 740 Carbon), or a Buck Vanguard.

And I'm not considering a couple of potential "choppers", like CS Trail Master, Ontario SP-5 or SP-10, Becker BK-9, RTAK II, Scrapyard DF.

I could go on, but Im starting to feel a little itch in my back. It's probably one of the knives in the backpack that is stabbing me.

Good discussion (neverending story)

Godspeed guys :thumbup:
 
My current favorite is the old-school Swamp Rat Ratweiler. You'd have to go to the secondary market to find one though.

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Right now, however, Busse is offering the Nuclear Meltdown Special Forces Natural Outlaw (man that's a mouthful) for $327 in the base grade. Pricey, but a good knife with one of the best warranties in the business.

Blade Steel INFI
Blade Length 8"
Overall 14"
Thickness Approx .25"

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Other knives I'd look at are the Kabar Beckers (7 or 9), Ranger Knives, or RAT knives.
 
Mr.Kittens said:
I am beginning a school sponsored outdoor survival class in January, and figured I'd thread hi-jack here and enlist help rather than start my own thread. I will be participating, for several months, in survival classes that will be extremely outdoor oriented. Snow, rain, all that crap come standard with the class. A knife is (duhr) required for the class, but due to financial constraints and gift-cards I am required to purchase my knife from either Cabelas or Dicks Sporting Goods. Class will involve loads of winter and wet fire making, shelter crafting, improvised traps, things that require a knife of more value than a 15 dollar folder. My price range is in the <100 dollar range. I have looked at 5.25 inch blade with .25 inch serration KA-BARs in 1095, Gerber Gator Fixed Blade (S30V), and at Field Pups and Seal Pups. I also looked at folders like the CRKT Desert Cruiser (8A) and Flash II's, but I having only used low-quality folders that broke on me in the past I don't know if a folder is the best choice for a survival course. Im leaning towards a Seal Pup or KA-BAR but the S30V on the Gerber Gator is inticing, and the CRKT Cruiser looks large enough to be useful but easier to carry than a fixed. The AUS 8 on CRKT and the treatment on the AUS6 on the Seal Pup would appear to be useful in a "wilderness" setting, but buying a knife on internet specs alone seems like a silly idea. Knife experience beyond that of a 10 year old boy scout is minimal, so speak slowly for me if you have advice.
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Earlier in this threat I recommended a Nexus for a fighting/survival knife.
This was in the eye of a knifenut.
In reality, if you have the skills you certainly don't need big thick knives.
Thick knives lose quite a awful lot in performance and ease of use.
They are more solid and do cover up bad skills to a certain degree.
There's a threat of a 3/16" thick cold steel SRK broken due to improper baton technique.
Knifenuts are also focused on the best, strongest steel.
For survival class the ease of free hand sharpening is much more important.
(I mentioned the triflex mora before, but an ordinary carbon mora might be better because they throw better sparks with a fire steel)
If you have to buy about 30 knives price is a factor to consider.
Fallkniven TK1 or Ferhman Peace Maker are good knives but way out of budget so it's pointless to discuss them

Best is to search the dedicated outdoor/buscraft/survival fora, there are plenty of them.
They will advise you on a knife as a part of their equipment in the outdoor activities and aren't so focused on the knife itself.

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I missed the $100 limit. Definitely the last three I mention then: Becker, Ranger, RAT.
 
YOU WANNA SURVIVE BROTHA??

You're going to need the BIGGEST blade you can get your hands on!!

It's also gotta be t h i c k ! Sure, it won't cut as good, but you'll be able to cut through front doors and car roofs so much easier with a supa' thick blade. Trust me (I do this all the time).

OK - so we got those 2 prerequisites met... now, most importantly, remember this: 2 is one and 1 is none! Always carry 2 knives on you... here are my personal choices!

Folding:

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Just look at how badass those serrated teeth are - they're like a doberman pincher for real - cuts like nothing else! Notice it's also all black for concealment... very important in surviving. Blend in. I can deploy this one supa' fast (just check out my YouTube videos).

Fixed blade:

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Just look at the $$$ BLING $$$ coming off this bitch! 'Nuff said - it's one badass survival blade.
 
If USD 100 is the limit, I'll take my Fällkniven F1 (not sure in the States, but in Europe it could be ordered below 70 Euros at Heinnie's until very recently). Otherwise, for tactical purposes, from my inventory I'll choose between Extrema Ratio Dobermann, Extrema Ratio Col Moshin or Fällkniven A1. For survival, a Fällkniven (F1, S1, A1, A2) or a Fehrman (EJ, FJ, FS). My favourite production blades (.. must admit that I don't own any customs..).
 
I would go for the Fallkniven F1 or S1. They are extremely sharp, have a protruding tang and cost about 100 USD. The back side is very "sharp" which makes it ideal for scraping firesteels. They were developed for the exact type of situation you are about to embark on.
Also they are quite light compared to their strength. You are to carry it all the time.
You do not need a big knife, just a sharp one. Chopping things can be replaced by batoning. The F1 and S1 is quite thick which makes them ideal for batoning. Since they have convex grind they are also very easy to sharpen in the field. Bring a 600 and a 1200 paper. Thats it.

If you have questions about which to choose I would suggest that you send a mail to info(q)fallkniven.se and describe your situation. Peter, who runs Fallkniven is a very nice person and very helpful and has ALOT of experience.

If you are to get sparks from a firesteel (the greyish stick thing) the steel type has no relevance whatsoever. It is how "sharp" the scraping edge is.
My Fallkniven F1 makes a huge amount of sparks because it is sharpened almost like an ice skate :)

If you on the other hand are using a piece of quartz, the knife has to be carbon because that is where the sparks come from.

Why can't anyone kill the myth that you need a carbon knife to get sparks from a firesteel?
 
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Symphony....where can I find those awesomely tactical blades?!?!? THEY'RE SO TACTICAL!!!!! OMGBBQ!
 
Tactical this and tactical that.
What is it that makes a knife "tactical"?
If it is because it is black and has a cool name. Then I have the ultimate tactical knife for you. Get a Mora knife, spray paint it all black and get a silver pen and write "Reaper" on the blade.
Is it because it is just big and heavy, then any machete is tactical.
Is it because it has serrations, a saw on its back and strange contraptions that shortens the blade length? Those knives you cut insulation with are quite long and has serrations.

I know you guys like knives that cost 500 USD. If I had one of those knives I would cry everytime I used it :(

The red handled Mora was "tactical" too once. It was issued as a survival knife to Swedish AF until 1996.
 
Dude, you said it right!
'umm a gonna looks for your top picks righttaways, as they sure is a fine lookin' lot if we're to survive this thread.
 
You guys are holding out on the good stuff. This is the most badest, meanest, tactialist survival knife evar.
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What's wrong with a SAK and a Ka-Bar? :rolleyes::D
 
That thing is the real deal - look at those serrations on the back on the blade!

They're like a chainsaw, for real. I field dressed an Alaskan caribou with that well-placed gut hook and then chainsawed its hindquarters off and ate them raw, for real. No one screws with me at the mall anymore when I have that badass blade duct-taped to the outside of my trenchcoat (right next to my tactical pen and tactical flashlight).
 
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