Big burly solid pins...

J

Joshua J.

Joined
Feb 27, 2005
Messages
3,986
Why don't Busse's have 'em?

Hopefully Jerry can answer, but it's always kind of confused me as to why they would stick with the hollow tubes that can potentially get knocked loose while batoning.
Considering the toughness of the knives I would expect something more along the lines of a 1/2" steel plug. I realize the tube pin system probably makes handle assembly a breeze, but it would be cool to have solid pins to add a little more assurance that the handle isn't going to go wobbly after a bad stroke with the baton.
If solid pins wouldn't work with the current system, maybe just doubling the tube wall thickness would?

Anyone else feel the same way? Or maybe you have beat the crap out of your tube pin handle and it's walked away laughing.
 
I haven't had any problems with the tubes. :confused:

Just don't hit the handle with the batton and you shouldn't ever have a problem....

That is unless you are cutting through steel and pounding them with a sledge hammer. :eek:

I leave enough blade on each side of the wood just incase I have to pound on both sides of the wood. ;)
 
I have "shifted" the scales on my NMSFNO very slightly due to the harsh and repeated beatings. It's very slight, but can be felt if you run your finger across the top of the handle.

Of course, there is no guarantee that even big burly pins would hold them in place better... I've really beat the hell out of that knife, and plan to do the same again this weekend. Fun, fun, fun!!! :)
 
You never know when you might have to tie your knife to a stick.
 
I gotta have that front tube to put my lanyards through on my FBM's. :D
 
Ankerson said:
I haven't had any problems with the tubes. :confused:

Just don't hit the handle with the batton and you shouldn't ever have a problem....

That is unless you are cutting through steel and pounding them with a sledge hammer. :eek:

I leave enough blade on each side of the wood just incase I have to pound on both sides of the wood. ;)
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I shifted the handles by batoning the blade end of the knife, the vibration from heavy batoning can sheer the tubes.

That said, I also buy 6 or 7 hundred dollar knives so I CAN hit the handles and expect them to stay on.
 
230grains said:
I shifted the handles by batoning the blade end of the knife, the vibration from heavy batoning can sheer the tubes.

That said, I also buy 6 or 7 hundred dollar knives so I CAN hit the handles and expect them to stay on.
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Yeah, but your light hits are twice what most peoples heavy hits are. :eek:
 
230grains said:
I shifted the handles by batoning the blade end of the knife, the vibration from heavy batoning can sheer the tubes.

That said, I also buy 6 or 7 hundred dollar knives so I CAN hit the handles and expect them to stay on.
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Mike you just need some metal handles welded on the handle. :D :thumbup:
I do feel for you bro, ;)
 
It's a fair question. One potential advantage of the tube rivets system is the relative ease for the shop to replace the scales if they are damaged. Glued/pinned scales must be a bear to replace.
 
I think the only thing I do differently than some is if i'm batoning a decent size round and hit some knots, I don't try and pull the knife out, I just put a little more umph in my swings with the baton and either make the knife go through the knot or shift around it. A lot of times when you hit a knot there are several blows that very simply do not move the blade against the knot. All that energy has to go somewhere.
 
resinguy said:
It's a fair question. One potential advantage of the tube rivets system is the relative ease for the shop to replace the scales if they are damaged. Glued/pinned scales must be a bear to replace.
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Something that's easily replaced by the end user would seem like a more cost/time effective measure though. I wouldn't be upset if I knocked the handles off a Busse if I could just screw them back on with new screws. Just keep some replacements around.

They won't look as cool though.
 
I don't see how a solid bolt would not be stronger than a tube.

Please someone explain to me why they would not be if I am wrong.

I am interested in this topic also.
 
^^^^^^^^^ Screws look cool..... :)

IMG_2667.jpg
 
screws and stand offs beat solid pins in every regard. you can replace them as a customer, they are just as strong if not stronger since they are held to the tang where the scales can come away from it with straight pins. and they aren't as heavy as a massive 1/2" diameter pin.

For busse: tube fasteners are lighter, they give more tie down options for customers, they are easier to disassemble if they are broken for whatever reason, they are cheaper then solid heavy heat treated pins, and they actively hug the scales to the tang where pins just hold them in position. I say easier to disassemble because press fit pins need very accurate 90 degree pressure to remove, and generally they aren't meant to be removed at all since the surface of the pin is pressing the mating surface outward by whatever fit you've chosen (.001, .005. 010")

for me, I'd much rather have tubes than pins because I can replace sheered tubes with screws and stand offs since the scales are counter sunk to accept flat head screws, where I would have to use round or pan head screws that stuck out when replacing solid pins.

as to why busse doesn't use a counter bored male and female screw system, I think it's mostly parts handling. By having moving parts you increase the likely hood of it coming undone in the field, you have to keep a stock of screws, it takes extra parts handling time, and you would have to deal with drilling out a larger piece of metal should it get stripped by the costumer or during manufacturing.
 
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I've seen some Busse's with smooth pins/bolts - anyone know if the handles are also epoxied?
 
kdstrick said:
^^^^^^^^^ Screws look cool..... :)

IMG_2667.jpg
Click to expand...

Man that looks sweet:thumbup::thumbup:,, I am close to finishing my hand satined SAR5, and now I am thinking the screw mod might have to be next:D, what type/size etc,
Any info would help, Thanks!, Wade;)
 
richstag said:
So I was correct for thinking bolts are stronger than tubes?
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sort of. when you use pins for strength the ideal is to have an interference fit, where the pin is slightly larger than holes diameter. I don't know how well micarta does with that kind of fit, but the biggest problem is when the hole deforms even slightly, creating a larger diameter. if you slammed the side of your handles hard and the handle came away from the tang slightly, it could increase the size of the hole just enough to make them forever loose. It could also deform the hole in the tang.

If busse had to redo the handles on that knife, they would have to use a slightly larger press fit pin, which gets into having to have a stock of press fit pins on hand and being able to verify what pin is in the handle and what is appropriate to use to ensure the correct tolerance of fit.


200


If your chicago bolt (which busse has used) has the correct top to allow you to get a really high torque pressure (torx or whatever), you get the benefits of a solid pin in it's thickness and sheering strength as well as benefits of the tube fasteners ability pull the scales into the tang. The one major drawback is stripping the screw head.
 
I am talking about bolts that screw together and hold the handles tight together to the tang. I think I may have been unclear.

If not, then my apologies.
 
old pins:
DSC00659-1.jpg


old Chicago/sex bolts:
DSCN0060.jpg


new pins:
4200850344_b7340609f8_b.jpg


since busse has produced a run of pinned scales (including a lot of custom shop work with pins), I'm pretty sure you could send a knife in to have the tubes replaced with pins.
 
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