Blade Forums Spring Street Barlow (BF Knife 2021)

JOELSM said:
I can do the same with the proud pins on mine. The pins on my Spring Street Barlow are the most proud of any other GEC that I own.
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Same here.
Jiki said:
I think the pins are considered domed, not proud. I also believe it is not considered unusual on a saw cut Barlow.
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I understand the difference between domed and proud. And I’m most certainly not trying to pick a fight. However, I have several knives with domed pins, and admittedly I’m not a fan of domed pins, but these are not domed, theses are proud. Doesn’t mean this knife is junk, doesn’t mean GEC doesn’t make a great knife, and it doesn’t mean that I’m not happy to have it, it just means that this particular knife, and a few others have proud pins. Period.
JOELSM said:
I’ve noticed the same on my 77 saw cut and my 15 saw cut barlows, however the Spring Street pins seem to be the most “proud” or “domed”. However you want to phrase it. It’s not my intention to try and detract from the knife by pointing this out, just an observation. I’m thrilled to have it in my collection.
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Totally agree. 👍
dsutton24 said:
Some terminology...

If you look at a domed pin, the top is domed, and there's a distinct flat disc on the underside of the dome. If there's space between the scale and the underside of the dome, that's a proud pin. One poster described it as being able to hang the knife on a fingernail by the pin. This is not normal in any knife regardless of scale material.

Sometimes a spun (domed) pin is set so that a sharp edge is raised on the edge of the dome. That's an upset pin, and not normal.

A domed pin with the underside set flush to the scale surface will often protrude above the scale surface. There's no edge to catch a nail on, the pin surface is perfectly smooth. This is normal.
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Perfectly said, I wish I would have been so eloquent and accurate. Thank you. 👍
Modoc ED said:
The saw cut bone on this knife is interesting. Although I can see the saw cut pattern in the cover, I can't feel it even when I draw my finger nail across it. Very, very shallow. It is smooth almost as if it were smooth bone with a saw cut decal covering the cover.

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I totally agree with your assessment as well Ed. 👍

Please, understand I’m just making an observation and showing a photo as evidence of my observation, if it were just domed you couldn’t hang it on a fingernail.

GEC made us a beautiful handmade pocket knife and I’m VERY happy to have one, but they aren’t all perfect and that’s okay. I love being a part of this community, the last thing I want to do is cause a controversy. I’m just sharing my experience.
 
paulhilborn said:
After supper snacks :thumbsup:
eF1QP6.jpg
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Great pic Paul :thumbsup:
 
Riveting is basically a forging operation....... Once the die is full of metal, continued force will move the metal and create a bigger flashing..... Once the metal yield strength overcomes the forging force, the operation ceases.......

Ideally the rivet head is fully formed and the layers of the assembly are drawn tightly together...... The shape of the dome is the mirror image of the tool used to create it..... To get more compressive force on the assembly either (1) increase the forging force or (2) shorten the rivet while maintaining the same force......

Due to variables in layer thicknesses and surface profiles, selection of rivet length can be problematic..... I've seen examples of spun rivets that were too short and the surface material was severely damaged while creating the head..... Conversely, long rivets can cause gapping under the head.....

Riveting has it's benefits and downfalls..... When you examine the downfall you will typically see a threaded fastener as the solution to the problem....
 
HEMI 49 said:
Riveting is basically a forging operation....... Once the die is full of metal, continued force will move the metal and create a bigger flashing..... Once the metal yield strength overcomes the forging force, the operation ceases.......

Ideally the rivet head is fully formed and the layers of the assembly are drawn tightly together...... The shape of the dome is the mirror image of the tool used to create it..... To get more compressive force on the assembly either (1) increase the forging force or (2) shorten the rivet while maintaining the same force......

Due to variables in layer thicknesses and surface profiles, selection of rivet length can be problematic..... I've seen examples of spun rivets that were too short and the surface material was severely damaged while creating the head..... Conversely, long rivets can cause gapping under the head.....

Riveting has it's benefits and downfalls..... When you examine the downfall you will typically see a threaded fastener as the solution to the problem....
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Sounds to me like you know your way around a metal shop my friend .

Harry
 
On the subject of light sawcuts.... has anyone given a reason for the very light sawcuts on many of these?
I wonder if it's to avoid going too deep and exposing the red "undercoat" of the hemlock? But if that was the case, I would think that jigging would be worse, and GEC's done some fine jigging on hemlock.
Perhaps it's simply "that's the way they turned out".... ?
I don't mind either way... I like the light sawcuts equally with the deeper ones.

enquiring minds, and all that......
 
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