Initially I ignored this thread but being that I get the chance more than anyone that regularly posts here to work on knives from most all the major and many minor knife companies as well as many customs to, tear them down and rebuild them, get intimate with them in many other ways or just review them and give critique or feedback on I want to mention just a few things from my perspective to try to shed some light on this thread.
I have made my own frame locks and liner locks for years. One of the reasons I did this was simply for the fact that they are the easiest folder to make. Much easier than a slip joint. Many times easier and more forgiving than a lock back and many many times easier than any of the new "high" tech laser cut out locks like some of the ones being done by major manufacturers in the last 20 years or so. It isn't rocket science to figure this out.
I've made lockbacks. In fact I have often stated around here that they are my favorite type of lock. Particularly the well made ones. From my point of view people seem to have selective eye sight in singling out Spyderco for lockbacks with some vertical give in them. For that matter on the blade play issue you would not believe how many knives come into my shop in any given week that the owners set the pivot tension such that there is blade play in their folder. I see it all the time, especially in Waved knives. I just got an Emerson CQC13 in the mail today and it was set that way, according to the owner of the knife because it waves open easier and to him the little bit of play never kept him from using it for skinning out deer or anything else he wanted to do with it. And he is right. A little blade play won't stop you or cause any reason other than your own opinion to not use the folder.
As to some Spydercos with give. I see it. Sure. I see it in Buck. I see it in CRKT. I see it in BenchMade Axis locks, Cold Steel knives ( I have a couple new in the box never used with blade play from them). This happens. Its always happened.
Here is what I see in a nutshell description.
Take any typical folder and examine it regardless of who makes it. Forget about the lock type for now. Lets say you have it laid out. Three screws in the body, with barrels to pin it together. All 1/8" diameter threaded barrels with 2-56 threaded screws.
One pivot pin barrel 3/16" diameter with 4-40 Pivot screws, one on each side.
Lets take the body barrels first. 1/8" body barrels are a precise .125 diameter. Drill a precise .125 hole and what you get is a slowed down assmebly, blisters on your thumb and repeated droppings of the barrel trying to shove it in the hole you just drilled. In short its a snug fit in one liner let alone trying to get it through a liner, a spacer and another liner without frustration if it even goes in. Not to mention how hard it is to get back out if you need to look at something inside again. Lets not forget the fact that if you order a bag of 1/8" barrels from anywhere that each and everyone in the bag will have different measurements when checked with a digital caliper but still be close enough to be within acceptable tolerances. This has nothing to do with the maker, the manufacturer of the knife or the person responsible for the assembly. Its a part ordered from outside, made to order in mass which means some are bigger and some are smaller in diameter. Occasionally one is missing threads or not threaded correctly also.
Back to topic. What most makers/manufactures do is drill slight oversized holes or machine them with their high tech tools to build knives. Typically you would use a #30 drill for a 1/8" barrels. A #30 drill makes a hole .1285 in diameter. .125 vs .1285 you do the math.
Now lets look at the pivot. Same situation. I won't get into the math. In short the pivot is slightly oversized also. If there is a lock bar guess what? Same scenario. This is not unique to Spyderco. It is everywhere. Over time some materials show wear faster and easier than others. FRN, Micarta, (by itself) G10 by itself, Zytel, all these materials are great space age materials and they provide a great service to mankind but over time pressure and torque, friction and constant use will take what used to be a round hole and make it slightly oblong. Oval shaped if you will, which on top of the fact that the hole was probably oversized to begin with only adds to what may have already had some noticed play before. It happens. I have fixed them, I have had guys send me knives for new pins, to start fresh. Its not the end all fix it though. It happens, even with brass liners, stainless, titanium, or combinations of both.
I hope all this typing puts some answers into this otherwise off track discussion. My fingers are tired and I'm done for a while.
STR