Blade Steels - Who can REALLY tell the difference?

Well, it IS the internet.;)

As for steel, I cannot tell the exact type it is by use, but I do notice the difference between a steel with good edge retention, and one that I have to sharpen all the time.
Or the difference between stainless, and one that rusts/patinas (especially if cutting acidic things like meat, or citrus fruits).

I'm not a metalurgical laboratory, but I can tell when steel sucks. Yet another good reason to use your knives.:)
Just sitting on the shelf, all I could tell you is "Oooh, shiny." :D

It sure is easy to tell by using a steel if it will hold an edge or not that's for sure and it doesn't take long either.
 
What really outrage me is the importance that Edge Retention get, money wise...as premium steel!?
Do you want a sword made of 1055 or made S30V? A dull knife is always better than a broken knife, right?
A knife that excel at one or two criteria is not a big deal "folders". . . . A knife that excels at all categories is a whole different game.
For example, if we take 10 knives blank with the same argos, geometry and polish edges with a mix of few different steels...
And and send it off to the best hot shot in here....I bet He will not understand shit.
Can REALLY tell the difference?......NO!
I gave you concrete examples. Try it, I did, and the differences are EASILY noticed.
 
I would say edge retention isn't something I need. But I sure do like higher wear resistant steels. At times when breaking down boxes at work. High wear resistance is nice. :D
 
What do you people cut where your knives dull inside of a day anyway? The only thing I've ran into that dulls that fast is denim rolled up into 1.5" diameter, and I really didn't even need to be cutting that. Other than that carpet is probably the nastiest, abrasive thing I've cut with 1095, and at the end of cutting up probably about 20 feet it would still cut paper just fine.

Genuinely interested in here, because I'm getting the idea that it requires cutting industrial sized quantities of abrasive material to really see a difference.
 
What do you people cut where your knives dull inside of a day anyway?

Fiberglass insulation and cardboard are the main ones.
After a camping trip I usually have to sharpen, at least a little.
If you ever have to cut old, dirty carpet, that'll dull a knife right quick.
 
Based on performace I could using the data that I already have.... ;)

All that would have to be done is have the hardness checked and I could get very close to dead on.



HE's remarkable affinity for metal and his Psychic ability are well documented all over the world.....
Uri Geller..

Be careful, you may end up like him.;)



mark 00:50
[video=youtube;M9w7jHYriFo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9w7jHYriFo&list=FLYMKivbvxiLLgzPt383ttmg&index=1&feature=plpp_video[/video]
 
I gave you concrete examples. Try it, I did, and the differences are EASILY noticed.


Right, how the hell you will recognize the steel difference & Edge Retention between D2 & S35V? Without knowing which knife is which?


please tell us?
 
Right, how the hell you will recognize the steel difference & Edge Retention between D2 & S35V? Without knowing which knife is which?


please tell us?

If those were the choices, then vinegar would easily show the difference.
Snap.
 
Right, how the hell you will recognize the steel difference & Edge Retention between D2 & S35V? Without knowing which knife is which?


please tell us?

Since both of those are similar in edge retention, you probably won't notice any difference in use.

What we are talking about here is the difference between a "common" steel and a "super" steel.

Oh, and it's not about recognizing and telling a specific steel from another. It's about being able to tell the difference in use, which mostly means edge retention, between them.
 
Since both of those are similar in edge retention, you probably won't notice any difference in use.

What we are talking about here is the difference between a "common" steel and a "super" steel.

Oh, and it's not about recognizing and telling a specific steel from another. It's about being able to tell the difference in use, which mostly means edge retention, between them.



Based on performace I could using the data that I already have.... ;)

All that would have to be done is have the hardness checked and I could get very close to dead on.


Well this is becoming funny, I hope that some people adjust what they're saying.....
 
Get a belt grinder. Put a fresh $10.00 ceramic 36 grit belt in it. Grind some 1084 or 01. Then do the same with some of the CPM high alloy stuff.
Then send the CPM off to Paul Bos for a proper heat treat. Now grab some sand paper and your optivisor and try to polish the little scratches out of the CPM stuff. Do the same with the 1084 and o1. You will very quickly understand there is a huge difference in wear resistance between the steels.
And yes, none of it is any good unless it is heat treated properly. Geometry also comes into play but without a good heat treat, it won't stay sharp.

Also, I concur on the Gerber comment. I don't know what they use for steel, but I have never had one that held an edge.
 
But you really are grabbing at straws with your argument. Or rather strawmen...


Not 'am not. Here what's wrong to start with its the criteria and definition of super steel.
D2, was classified as super steel, V30S was classified as super steel...do Not? But, today both steels are throw away under the bus...do not?
 
Not 'am not. Here what's wrong to start with its the criteria and definition of super steel.
D2, was classified as super steel, V30S was classified as super steel...do Not? But, today both steels are throw away under the bus...do not?

I'm sure the definition changes. 154CM was considered a super steel a few years ago. So was AUS-8. With the advent of "superer" steels, you have to change your nomenclature.

Again, you are grasping at straws. Everyone here(well except you maybe) knows that while D2 and S30V ARE premium steels, they are considered somewhat pedestrian these days compared to S90V, K294, M390, etc. I'm going to qualify that though so you won't have another straw to grasp at. We are talking edge retention and about a working edge. Not toughness, not corrosion resistance.
 
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