BladeHQ Para 2 exclusive M4 w/ Jade G10

SpeedHoles said:
19deg per side isn't that low of an angle. It's actually more obtuse than a typical factory edge...


Maybe you meant to type inclusive?
Click to expand...
All the factory edges I see are generally 22-24 degrees (44-48 inclusive). Every time I thin out a knife to 19 it takes a few minutes to work it down to that angle. I know many people will do 15 degrees (30 inclusive) but I find that's more for looks than function. Any time I've done blades below 19 degrees (38 inclusive) the edges don't hold and roll. 19 is a great angle for regular edc uses.
Btw I get my angle by using a wicked edge in tandem with a digital angle checker.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
k_ozdragon said:
All the factory edges I see are generally 22-24 degrees (44-48 inclusive). Every time I thin out a knife to 19 it takes a few minutes to work it down to that angle. I know many people will do 15 degrees (30 inclusive) but I find that's more for looks than function. Any time I've done blades below 19 degrees (38 inclusive) the edges don't hold and roll. 19 is a great angle for regular edc uses.
Btw I get my angle by using a wicked edge in tandem with a digital angle checker.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Dunno what factory edges you're talking about, but almost all of my Spydercos (with the exception of the ones from Taichung) have come with a 30deg or less inclusive edge from the factory.
 
ejames13 said:
Dunno what factory edges you're talking about, but almost all of my Spydercos (with the exception of the ones from Taichung) have come with a 30deg or less inclusive edge from the factory.
Click to expand...

I'll test that with my digital angle gauge, but I guarantee its not 30 degree inclusive from factory. They're usually 40+. Those super low angles are much less durable
 
Barman1 said:
All packed up and ready to go in the AM John. :thumbup:
Click to expand...


Just a follow up...
The knife arrived Tuesday. It's what I'd call a perfect example, blade centered and lockup early, solid and secure with plenty of room to wear. Wayne must have put the best one back, unless they were both the same. I'm very satisfied with the transaction, thanks Wayne. :)



Too late for NIB pics as I started using it immediately, everyone already knows what a new one looks like anyway.

It came with a surprisingly good factory edge.
The first thing I cut that evening was the package of a thick beef sirloin. Next were mushrooms and onions. Then I used it to cut and eat my steak. Sorry again, no pictures.

I used it the last 2 days at work for a variety of things, including cutting bolted and taped motor leads apart and scraping corroded connections. As usual, I got the edge into the steel bolts and nuts cutting the taped motor leads, which only slightly shined the edge. It performed just as I'm accustomed to with all HSS blades. Most other steels would have rolled or chipped. A couple minutes touching the edge up on a fine diamond resulted in better than factory.
I won't go on anymore about the steel, those who don't use their knives destructively will rarely see a difference.

I hope there's no offense to Wayne in how I've already used a 3 day old knife he so kindly offered.

Following is PM2 related only to a new user (me)...
This is the 1st time I've tried a PM2. I've always wanted to try one from reading others' opinions of it, but the 3.5" S30V blade have put it off. I have a few S30V blades and it's just fine for normal use, but my uses aren't normal. After looking closely, it appeared that the PM2 might handle like a 3" due to the choil, and I was right. I need to reach the tip with my index finger, while having a full 3 fingers of support underneath without contacting the edge for some tasks, not negociable. Also the handle can't be too heavy. Turns out this is easily doable.

One thing I've always liked about benchmade black class knives is the sturdy build, one thing being a generous blade (tang?) area around the pivot. I was surprised and happy to see this in the PM2, compared to many other spydercos I have.

The only thing I'm undecided about is the lock, it's the 1st of its kind I've used. At this point, I still prefer my liner locks, as I retain a more secure grip to get the blade closed one handed (less chance of droppage). Blind one hand closing while maintaining maximum retention is much more important to me than not having my fingers in the line of fire during intial blade unlocking, but again my uses are not the norm. Some will understand, most won't.

Anyway, other than giving my impressions of the Jade M4 PM2, wanted to shout out to Wayne (Barman1) for giving me back the opportunity I missed.

Thanks again Wayne.
 
Yeah Spyderco definitely goes lower angles than almost all other manufacturers. This pm2 in m4 looks to be like 21-20 non-inclusive, but even a degree or two makes a big difference to a knife. Any time I've gone under 19 it doesn't hold up well for me, and I've tried various steels too. They definitely vary, but 19 is the sweet spot for me thus far

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
jpm2 said:
Anyway, other than giving my impressions of the Jade M4 PM2, wanted to shout out to Wayne (Barman1) for giving me back the opportunity I missed.

Thanks again Wayne.
Click to expand...

My pleasure!
Enjoy it, and it was the better of the two examples I recieved but they were both the best PM2s I've handled.
 
k_ozdragon said:
Yeah Spyderco definitely goes lower angles than almost all other manufacturers. This pm2 in m4 looks to be like 21-20 non-inclusive, but even a degree or two makes a big difference to a knife. Any time I've gone under 19 it doesn't hold up well for me, and I've tried various steels too. They definitely vary, but 19 is the sweet spot for me thus far

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

When you guys talk about the angle, do you mean the entire "whitish" part of the edge in this picture...or like a microbevel? If this M4 is 21 degrees per side, does that mean that putting it on the sharpmaker even at 40 degrees would not sharpen it right away, bc you are not hitting the edge?

DSC_0722.jpg
 
So the bevel is basically as you said, the area at the edge. Basically the edge from the cutting edge back to where the angle changes at the next grind. If you put the edge on the sharpmaker at 40 inclusive you wouldn't be sharpening the very edge because you'd be too shallow. Of course a minor tilt of the wrist would fix this. BTW, 40 inclusive means the overall angle total. Basically divide it in half and you'll get the angle per side, which would be 20. Spyderco usually does go lower than most companies, but like all companies the sharpening is done by hand so there's definite variances in the angles on any knife. Most companies stay at 23-25 degrees (46-50 inclusive) on their edges, which allows the knife to be used harder without worrying about edge roll, chipping, etc... Many people will sharpen their edge to 20deg per side, then lightly sharpen at 23deg or so, which creates a small microbevel right at the cutting edge that promotes sharpness and prevents edge roll and etc... Most factory razor blades do this. The edge will be 8-10deg per side with a 15deg microbevel (on factory razor blades that is). Edge geometry plays a massive roll in how the knife performs. A degree or two is a massive change. It's why I redo most of my edges to 19deg (38 inclusive) with no microbevel. Works great with most modern steels and slices fantastic 😊

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
k_ozdragon said:
So the bevel is basically as you said, the area at the edge. Basically the edge from the cutting edge back to where the angle changes at the next grind. If you put the edge on the sharpmaker at 40 inclusive you wouldn't be sharpening the very edge because you'd be too shallow. Of course a minor tilt of the wrist would fix this. BTW, 40 inclusive means the overall angle total. Basically divide it in half and you'll get the angle per side, which would be 20. Spyderco usually does go lower than most companies, but like all companies the sharpening is done by hand so there's definite variances in the angles on any knife. Most companies stay at 23-25 degrees (46-50 inclusive) on their edges, which allows the knife to be used harder without worrying about edge roll, chipping, etc... Many people will sharpen their edge to 20deg per side, then lightly sharpen at 23deg or so, which creates a small microbevel right at the cutting edge that promotes sharpness and prevents edge roll and etc... Most factory razor blades do this. The edge will be 8-10deg per side with a 15deg microbevel (on factory razor blades that is). Edge geometry plays a massive roll in how the knife performs. A degree or two is a massive change. It's why I redo most of my edges to 19deg (38 inclusive) with no microbevel. Works great with most modern steels and slices fantastic 😊

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks man. So when you say no microbevel, do you mean literally the same cutting edge angle all the way to the spine of the knife, pass the spydie logo?
 
No, just the standard cutting bevel with no additional smaller bevel. The area behind the bevel (basically the side of the knife) is called the grind. So you have a primary or secondary grind. So like a Benchmade Griptilian, starting from the spine to the edge you have the primary grind, secondary grind, and finally the bevel. However on a Morakniv you have a primary grind, and then bevel; because it is a scandi grind. If a knife has no bevel and the primary grind goes straight to the edge with no bevel, then you have a "full flat grind" also known as a "zero grind." However you can also have a blade configured with a primary grind, then secondary grind with no bevel, which is called a "saber grind." If you want a clearer picture, contact Spyderco and request a catalog. It's full of info - glossary, steel chart, handle materials, lock schematics, and also all the major blade grinds. It's a great wealth of information and it's free :)

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
k_ozdragon said:
No, just the standard cutting bevel with no additional smaller bevel. The area behind the bevel (basically the side of the knife) is called the grind. So you have a primary or secondary grind. So like a Benchmade Griptilian, starting from the spine to the edge you have the primary grind, secondary grind, and finally the bevel. However on a Morakniv you have a primary grind, and then bevel; because it is a scandi grind. If a knife has no bevel and the primary grind goes straight to the edge with no bevel, then you have a "full flat grind" also known as a "zero grind." However you can also have a blade configured with a primary grind, then secondary grind with no bevel, which is called a "saber grind." If you want a clearer picture, contact Spyderco and request a catalog. It's full of info - glossary, steel chart, handle materials, lock schematics, and also all the major blade grinds. It's a great wealth of information and it's free :)

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Thanks. Great post. I actually have spydercos catalog , but on the pictures - I wasn't sure how "zoomed in" the picture implied.
 
It can be a little confusing at first, but just look at the picture with a blade in hand and match it to the pic. I think the most confusing part about the Spyderco pics is when they talk about swedges and false edges. Again, using the Griptilian as reference, you have the primary grind, secondary grind, and bevel, but towards the tip there is another grind that slants backwards. That is a swedge. If it were ground to an almost-sharp point, it would be considered a "false edge." Both aid in thinning the tip for piercing and/or reducing weight and friction from drag. Obviously the false edge is just an extreme swedge made for more piercing without a true secondary bevel (in other words, another true cutting edge). Hopefully that clarifies some of the images in the catalog ;)

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
folder geek said:
Proly a couple returns from flippers that couldn't make enough.
Click to expand...

The funniest parts are the BS explanations on the Exchange, "Well, I bought it out of curiosity, thought I'd give a PM2 a shot, but M4 just isn't for me. Anyways, here it is, I'd call it LNIB, yours for $230."
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top