Bowie critique/WIP...UPDATED!!!

Hey Matt,

You're doing great. A small gap like you have can be peened closed. I use a hammer and drift punch for good control. With your guard butted up against the ricasso, run a sharpie across the tang behind the guard. Your tang should taper slightly in width up to this point. The guard shouldn't have to get over any high spots on its way up the tang. It should get tight about where you draw the line and should be hammered or press fit the rest of the way. So, peen around the whole opening until the hole is slightly smaller than the dimensions of the tang where it will be seated. Then re-fit the guard. It should be pressed into place. That will force the guard opening to conform to the exact shape of the tang. Examine the fit and mark the face of the guard with a sharpie anywhere there is still a bit of a gap. Remove the guard and peen any edges that need to be tighter. Repeat as necessary. Remove the guard and flatten the face.

Here is a little technique I use when fitting the guard for a nice tight fit. Getting the radius of the tang shoulders to match the radius of the guard can be a headache of trial and error. I use a chainsaw file to cut in the radius of my tang shoulders. It is impossible to see how the parts are mating up because the tang is filling the guard hole. So I use a radius gauge. They look like these:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?poi=...crdt=0&treatment_id=7&clk_rvr_id=948885320523

Select one that matches the radius of the file you're using to do the shoulders. The gauge has inside and outside curves that match that specific radius. The gauge is also very thin. So you can place it in the hole instead of the tang and still see how the parts are fitting. Adjust the radius in the guard opening until they match the gauge radius, which should be the same as the tang shoulders. And as we remember the transitive property of equality from geometry class, we know that if A = B, and B = C, then A = C. If done well you shouldn't need to dye your epoxy.


For additional information, read Will Morrison's excellent WIP here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ntroduction-and-a-WIP?highlight=will+morrison
 
Last edited:
That's how I do it- a tapered tang so right at the hilt there is a lot of metal. I thread the end of the tang and screw on a coupling and then run a nut and rod from the handle butt to link up- fill the voids with epoxy.
You see a few blades where a rat tail tang starts right behind the ricasso and it seems to me a hard side force could snap off the tang. That's why I do it as stated. I was told a 90 degree corner could develop a weak spot in tempering so round out the inside corners- which I do.
I thought on some of the Japanese blades they burned in a curved hole. Can you really drill a curved hole- seems impossible.
 
When I get ready to glue everything up should I do it all at once? Or should I do the guard and spacers first and then the handle. I have seen it done both ways.
 
Matt,


I have done it both ways as well. For me, when trying to glue up more than a couple of pieces it can get tricky making sure every gap is seamless. Although it takes more time, I find it easier to concentrating on getting a good tight fit at the ricasso/guard, then when that is established to continue with the rest of the handle. Those makers who produce knives faster than I (that's just about everyone) may not have the luxury of time. Also, like I mentioned earlier, I use JB Weld for the guard. I use a different epoxy for the rest of the handle. That pretty much breaks it down into two separate operations anyway.
 
I peened and sanded the top. It looks like I need to open the front up a little more or hit it with a hammer a little harder:D. One side looks really good and the other has a small gap. I'm not sure if I should peen it again or leave it. Since the slot it tapered, as I sand the whole slot is going to open up. Maybe this is one of the "in theory" things and I'm over thinking it.
 
You are very close Matt. It's up to you of course but I think it would bug you if you left the gap like that. Do a little more work now. The satisfaction will last forever. The gaps on the top and bottom require a touch more filing on the shoulders of the guard or tang. The gap on the side requires a little more peening and sanding. It's looking good.
 
You're right Marc. I will peen it again. How do you keep the bottom of the guard clean when gluing the guard on? Can I put on the jb weld, hammer the guard on, and then just clean it up. I'm assuming that since it's pressed on I shouldn't need to keep it under pressure?
 
Correct. Some folks use a spring and a clamp or some other device in place to make sure the guard stays pressed against the guard until the epoxy is hard. If it needs to be pressed into place then it probably isn't going to move on its own. But a little insurance doesn't hurt. Sometimes the epoxy acts a bit like a lubricant. So parts can sometimes move. Apply the epoxy and press the guard into position. Then clean the ricasso and front of guard very well. Wipe the excess away with blue shop towels or whatever you have then use q-tips with a bit of alcohol to clean the rest. It has to be clean so you can get a good look at whether or not the guard seated properly. Check back periodically to see if any glue has squeezed out of the joint. Keep checking until the glue sets. I leave the mixing cup that I mixed the epoxy in on the workbench so I can see when the glue starts getting hard.
 
Well I haven't finished it........yet! I spent way too much time trying to remove that broken bit from the block of ironwood. I ordered a few blocks of buckeye burl and am planning on using one of those. They are not stabilized but I am thinking of using one and just finishing it with oil. If not then I'm going to order another block. I need a 2" wide one and am looking for something with some figure. I really want some curly koa but it's kinda hard to find right now. I'm finally caught up on all my other knives and am going to get back on this one. I will post some updates soon.
 
How did you peen the guard? I have a gap on the top of my guard that I'd like to close up.

image_41.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

Edit: never mind I just saw Marc's post
 
I have some nice stabilized curly Koa I might part with if you're interested. If so, email me your minimum dimensions and I'll send you some pics & prices.
 
So, it seems I'm trying to beat Marc for the longest knife build ever! Anyway, I got everything fitted. I am using some claro walnut courtesy of J. Doyle. I also am using a black g10 spacer and a stainless pin. I had to work under a heat lamp with the epoxy so it would flow into the handle. I also notched the tang just for some extra holding strength even though I'm pinning it. Tomorrow I will start shaping the handle and get some more pics up. Thanks for being patient!
 
It's looking good Matt. I hope you don't beat me for slowest build ever. I have a hog knife I'm building for my brother that's been taking me about two years by now. You don't want your project to drag on that long. Git 'er done!
 
I hope you win this kinda race!!! It just keeps getting put on the back burner. What do you think of the sketch on the handle? It will be thinner than the trace but I keep messing with it. After the glue dries and I square everything out I will draw it exactly like I want it.
 
Well, take a closer look at how the ricasso lines up with your handle. It looks like the bottom line flows from the ricasso through the guard and into the handle nicely. The top line of the ricasso seems to have a bit of a disconnect with the top of the handle. Try a version of your sketch where there is better alignment on the top as well as a slightly smoother line down to the butt. This way the flow is established. And maybe ease down the flare at the top of the butt. A flare that pronounced may cause a hot spot in use. See what it looks like if you run out the flare at an angle parallel to the top of the blade (straight out). I hesitate to say more because we are getting into personal preference areas. I think it's looking good. The only other thing that I'd mention is that I think the pin hole in the tang is very big. You haven't left a lot of meat on either side of the hole, and then you put notches there too. Seems like an area prone to failure. On your next tang you shouldn't need larger than an 1/8" diameter pin. Keep your notches away from the hole. Plus you could put s mall chamfer on either side of that hole. It would assist in getting the pin through but it will also distribute stresses a bit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top