Bowie WIP - Knife now complete

[S.Alexander]

I have wanted to create a big Bowie knife for a while now, and thought I would document it in a wip. This is by no means supposed to be an instructional wip, but more a place to share my progress, ask questions, and bounce ideas off of you other knife makers.

Here is my general plan:

1.5" wide 1084 blade with a clay quench. Full flat grind and a slight swedge.

Hawaiian mango sculpted handle.

Guard... Not sure at the moment. I have some 1/8" mild steel that I was thinking of using as an S guard. I would really like to do a copper guard but I can't find any thicker material locally.

Sheath TBD.

Here are my sketches. I'm going to try and get some shop time in today and start grinding out the blade profile.

 

[DEllis]

I can mail you a piece of 1/4 inch by 1 inch copper if you like. Just let me know how long of piece you need.
Darcy

 

[S.Alexander]

Thanks Darcy, that's very kind of you. I sent you a message.

 

[Willie71]

I was going to offer you some 1/2" copper, and also suggest looking for cut offs at Metal Supermarkets. That's where I get mine, from the cutoff bin. They sell it by weight.

 

[Robert Erickson]

Looking forward to this WIP! Making a bowie is on my to do list. First question I have is how do you know what angle to have the tang at in relations to the blade? In the designs I've seen thus far it looks like it angles down slightly. Thanks!

 

[NickWheeler]

I like what you have drawn up.

If you go with 1/4" thick guard stock... I strongly suggest you thin the guard lugs a bit... as a simple oval guard like in your drawing that's 1/4" thick will look clunky IMHO.

If you do an oval guard like your drawing, then adding a spacer just behind the guard (which will give the look of a ferrule) will REALLY help to pull the handle together visually. I know a lot of folks make oval guards with handles that simply but right up to the guard without a spacer, but IMHO it looks unfinished that way.

Looking forward to how this comes together.

 

[S.Alexander]

Looking forward to this WIP! Making a bowie is on my to do list. First question I have is how do you know what angle to have the tang at in relations to the blade? In the designs I've seen thus far it looks like it angles down slightly. Thanks!

I'm not sure if there's an exact angle that guys go by. I just drew it a couple of times until it looked good to the eye.

I'll have to remember to take pictures as I go. I tend to get in a rhythm and forget that kind of thing

I was going to offer you some 1/2" copper, and also suggest looking for cut offs at Metal Supermarkets. That's where I get mine, from the cutoff bin. They sell it by weight.

Thanks Warren. I'll have a look at metal supermarket. Metal mart only had round bar.

 

[S.Alexander]

I like what you have drawn up.

If you go with 1/4" thick guard stock... I strongly suggest you thin the guard lugs a bit... as a simple oval guard like in your drawing that's 1/4" thick will look clunky IMHO.

If you do an oval guard like your drawing, then adding a spacer just behind the guard (which will give the look of a ferrule) will REALLY help to pull the handle together visually. I know a lot of folks make oval guards with handles that simply but right up to the guard without a spacer, but IMHO it looks unfinished that way.

Looking forward to how this comes together.

Thanks Nick. If I'm using 1/4" copper I might just do a guard with a lower branch. I will definitely thin it out at the bottom though. The spacer idea is a good one. It adds more depth to the piece.

 

[S.Alexander]

I made some progress today. I'm always happy to get some shop time.

First I cut out the template and traced it onto some 5/32" 1084.




Then it's time to suit up!


I wish I had a band saw, but all I have is an angle grinder. I find it much easier to use now that I have the thin cutoff discs.


Then the rough profile with a 36 grit blaze belt.


After getting in to the general shape I am going to use my carbide file guide to square up the shoulders. I got this file guide from Bill Behnke. It works great, and Bill was a great guy to deal with.




Here's the rough profile. I have some refining to do like tapering the tang slightly and I may make the recurve slightly more pronounced.

 

[NickWheeler]

Off to a nice start. :thumbup:

IMHO, you will get THE best guard fit if you wait until the blade is heat-treated and nearly at its final finish before doing a final cut-in for the guard shoulders. Nothing wrong with cutting them in now, but I highly recommend your touch them up before fitting your guard.

Also, while I applaud you for going with a beefy tang and avoiding the pencil neck tang so many fellas usually opt for you can taper it more towards the ass end. You'll still have plenty of meat/strength/weight (for balance) but you'll have to hog out less handle material at the rear of the hole--- less broach work and less chance of grinding/filing into your tang cavity while shaping.

And yes, a non-knife person would probably think that was some really perverted talk^^^ LMFAO

 

[S.Alexander]

Here's my plan for tomorrow. Clean up the bottom of the ricasso area. I just don't like the shape right now. Taper the tang towards the "ass end" so it's not so meaty Nick

 

[DEllis]

Looking good and progressing quickly........I'd better put some speed on that copper for ya!
Darcy

 

[BallewBlade]

Nice work so far, I love me a good Bowie!

 

[Samon]

I really need to get one of those file guide things!

Looking forward to seeing this get finished.

 

[Augus7us]

I notice the belly is lower than the edge at the heel. I'm sure there is a technical term for this but I have no idea what it is.

I ask because I like that style, I ground my first knife like that unintentionally and my pops pointed out how he liked it. Never really noticed much until then but I do like the look of it. So just curious what your thoughts are behind it. Based on the overall arc of the blank it looks like it would function a bit like a kukri!

 

[S.Alexander]

I notice the belly is lower than the edge at the heel. I'm sure there is a technical term for this but I have no idea what it is.

I ask because I like that style, I ground my first knife like that unintentionally and my pops pointed out how he liked it. Never really noticed much until then but I do like the look of it. So just curious what your thoughts are behind it. Based on the overall arc of the blank it looks like it would function a bit like a kukri!

It's called recurve Augus. I liked the look of it on this blade as it gives it some more curves. A recurve removes some weight from the rear of the blade and shifts it towards the tip. This can increase chopping power, as with a kukri.

 

[S.Alexander]

I fixed the profile up today. Tapered the tang more, fixed the bottom of the ricasso, and made the recurve a bit more gradual.

 

[S.Alexander]

Before I start grinding the bevels I thought I would ask a couple of questions. I've never ground a swedge so I'm a little unsure of the order of operations.

My plan is to grind the main bevels first, full flat grind. Get them to 220 grit, then grind the swedge.

Any tips on grinding the swedge. Or does anyone have a link to a good video on the subject?

 

[stereo.pete]

Off to a nice start. :thumbup:

IMHO, you will get THE best guard fit if you wait until the blade is heat-treated and nearly at its final finish before doing a final cut-in for the guard shoulders. Nothing wrong with cutting them in now, but I highly recommend your touch them up before fitting your guard.

Also, while I applaud you for going with a beefy tang and avoiding the pencil neck tang so many fellas usually opt for you can taper it more towards the ass end. You'll still have plenty of meat/strength/weight (for balance) but you'll have to hog out less handle material at the rear of the hole--- less broach work and less chance of grinding/filing into your tang cavity while shaping.

And yes, a non-knife person would probably think that was some really perverted talk^^^ LMFAO

Once the blade is hardened, will the file not simply skate over the steel, making the process of squaring the shoulders near impossible? Are you using belts instead of files to do this with the file guide? Forgive me for the simple questions, I am just trying to better understand your process.

Thanks,

Pete

 

[DEllis]

Once the blade is hardened, will the file not simply skate over the steel, making the process of squaring the shoulders near impossible? Are you using belts instead of files to do this with the file guide? Forgive me for the simple questions, I am just trying to better understand your process.

Thanks,

Pete

With the carbon steels, you can(and in my opinion should) either differentially harden or temper the blade so you have a hard edge and a softer spine/ricasso/tang.........file will cut it no problem. That said, most blades are tempered a bit softer than a file anyway, so it'll cut if the file is new and sharp........especially if there isn't too much to take off to tune the shoulders up.
Darcy