Break Open Those Carrots Boys!!!!

Originally posted by wetdog1911
Nick posted earlier from a Kinkos I think, lost his internet connection.:(

John.. Go for the real challenge. See if you can get #'s 1&2 instead of Chuck,Scott,Raden, or Eric. THAT would be interesting.:D Hell, go for the proto but don't cut off the fatties!!! :eek: :eek:

Rob
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Got you worried now don't I Rob?
 
I'm down with the removable scales.
I'm down with the satin finish (a must).
As far as the chisel grind goes....If Jerry thinks that it would be best, I believe him. But, there is a nagging voice in my head saying that this the easy and cheaper way out. Perhaps with this thin stock it is not an issue....., but I need to be convinced of the merites.

Jerry, why would a chisel grind be better than a zero edge or a symetrical grind on the same thin stock?
 
Originally posted by Jerry Busse
Here are some random thoughts concerning the NICKs. . .

1.) Removable handles for cleaning out the encrusted gunk of several lasagnas gone wild.

2.) Paper Micarta for best moisture repellancy (is that a word?)

3.) Grind full to spine on one side only, leaving the left side flat for scraping, and far better cutting geometry than half high grinds on both sides.

4. Serial Numbered.

Any others?
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1.) Why the removable handles? I have never had any problems with "stuff" gunking up the handle area of any of my other Busses. Why would these be different?

2.) Repellancy is not a word. Repellency, however, is. Paper huh? So... you're saying that 550# cord wrap is out?:p
 
aaaah the cord wrapped kitchen knife... ranks up their with the non grooved mirror polished porsche designed handle, with the diamond stud to assure that your hand doesnt slip up... classic.

im definitely ordering one. 297 is a steal - this knife is going to with me in my casket/ashes(powdered infi mixed in :D).

i dont really worry about anyting getting into my other busse handles iether, but those handles arent covered in onion/potato/food for an hour a day, every day. they say that regardless of how well a chef washes his hands, underneath the fingernails is often untouched. having the ability to wash every part of the knife seems like a good sanatation measure.

i have no idea on the chisel grind. never used a knife like it, though ive hated the idea of them on every utility knife ive ever seen. i can definitely see where having the high primary grind would cancel out most of the detrimental side effects of the shape though.

if the metal behind the edge isnt effected by the added stock thickness, id preffer less bendy. with tall this knife is, i dont think the added thickness would effect it much. we have a lot of cheap kitchen knives where i work, and ever thin bladed knife (1/16") has a serious bend in it, and i prefer the thicker blades. they give more control over what your cutting, especially when your just using the tip area of the knife.

and how many times do i have to say it - you guys can cut down old busse's to make your pairing knives (or any other blade style you want, including a folder :eek: ) just have it professionally thinned, take off the talon hole, and their ya go.

the knife i like most at work is the sub hilt groove, 6 inch drop point slightly less then 1/8th" fully flat ground... fits the hand like it was part of the bone.

i want mine with a birds beak pommel (more rounded instead of having a flat surface) :D rounded segment for crushing garlic and such, pointed enough to crack open nuts with ease :D:D:D im pretty sure that the handle wouldnt be big enough for this feature, but it would be awesome :D

orange and black handles would be awsome as well :D

how will they be removable?? (what kind of fastening system would be in place for this feature?)

need to get a shoulder rig for it...

when abouts will this dual over kitchet cutlery come about? (give or take two weeks :rolleyes: )
 
Blade-o-leer man, Blade-o-leer....

Where'd you guys go??

Man, I go out to get more beer, and you guys take off??
 
the only way id do it in a blade-o-leer is if busse combat put out infi throwing knives :D

do it up Navajas* style :cool:

*played by danny trejo in desperado (the throwing knife assasin)*
 
Originally posted by Matteo Escobar
As far as the chisel grind goes....If Jerry thinks that it would be best, I believe him. But, there is a nagging voice in my head saying that this the easy and cheaper way out.
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Matteo,

Good observation. However, as for being a "cheaper way out", the reality is that we run a much greater risk of loss to warpage than we do with a two-sided grind. Here's why. These blades will be hardened and straightened before grinding. They will be full-height ground one side at a time. The full-height removal of material from the first side of a blade often causes warpage, even on blades as large and as thick as the Battle Mistress. This "bowing" or warpage occurs due to the stock removal causing massive stress relief and loss of material from the one side of the blade. Grinding the material off of the other side relieves this stress and allows the blade to return to true.

It may be that we will have no choice other than to grind both sides of the blade in order to avoid massive losses.

As for the performace advantages of a thin-stocked one-sided grind, you'll have to use one to believe it. It may be that thickening the stock will cause the loss of advantages found in the thin-stocked one-sided full-height grind as well. We really won't know until get into it. Either way, we will be sure to bring the the best performance possible to the NICK.

Nick On!!!. . .errrr. . . . I mean Nuke on!!! ;)
 
Is there any real advantage between a single-side grind, and a double-sided grind of similar dimensions?

Take two knives - one single-side grind at 20 degrees, and a double-side grind, 10 degrees each. Total angle for both knives is 20 degrees. If you take the double-ground knife, and shift it slightly to one side, so that one of the grinds is perfectly vertical, then it's identical to the 20 degree single-side grind (except that the spine surface isn't parallel to the work surface anymore).

Never really used anything with a so-called chisel grind (except a chisel), so I could be full of it.
 
All very interesting, I’m gonna have one whatever the grind. I just know their going to be beauties.:D

I’m always confused with edge grinds and angles. I use a bladesharpener that I have posted before. It has degree settings. On my NO I set it to 22deg, thin kitchen knives I set to 15deg. I can only assume that is from the horizontal? What is the ultimate edge degrees setting for an V edge?? That is for cutting meat etc. I realise a more aggressive edge is more desirable for some applications. :)
 
I indeed have no internet connectiuon until tommorow night. I have to find public internet terminals and pay through the nose to check email etc. We have just moved here to Columbus Ga.. We don't even have our furniture yet. Half of our furniture and stuf will be here today the other half next wednesday. Gotta love government contractors. :rolleyes:
Jerry,
Sounds like you got the whole thing under control. I like the whole removable handle concept. And I think a double cut finish would be the way to go. I am definitly down for a couple.

Oh yeah I got dibs on the proto.!! :D :p

Nick

~Nuclear INFIdel and member of O.I.N.K.~
~Aint this place a geographical oddity Two Weeks from anywhere!!~
 
Originally posted by Jerry Busse
Excellent idea! If we're gonna roast a Hog, let's roast either Chuck or Skunk and then split up their gear once we're done chowin'! ;)
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Hey...! Wait a gosh darn minute!

This little piggy is just laying low and trying to get by and now I'm about to be roasted and have my Bounty split up among the "Big" Hogs..?

I'm all about sharing the Love, Share the INFI:D


BTW...The Trickster came to my house to visit the other day:p ;)
 
Hey all!

I looked on last night, but ended up cleaning dead mouse out from under my fridge. It gets better. It had been squidged over a foot of length. Decidedly not yum.

I've been thinking of the removable scales and don't see much utility in them. I'm with Les on this one. Assuming the finish is satin and the blade and scales are v. close to true flat, I don't think there would be much chance of food crud getting betweem them. When I look at my AD, the fit and finish in this area is pretty good. The paper micarta sounds good for repellency. I'm thinking that it is the fasteners that you should be focussing on. Methinks that solid rivets are the way to go. Hollow tube, slot, allen, torx, etc fasteners are going to be magnets for food crud and v. diff. to clean. Who here has had to scrape the paint out of a screw head before being able to unscrew it? In addition, depending on how the scales are fastened, I think Shaggi and Kassi are going to be inundated with calls asking for replacement bolts and nuts. I'm careful, but I am always losing little things under the stove and fridge and down the drain. And there's more! I don't know how tough micarta is, but could there be any problems with people chipping edges either on the blade/scale juncture from rough use, or around the fasteners from over-tightening? Nuff said.

I'll leave the chisel/normal grind debate to the pros. To enliven the debate, here's a link to a seller with Japanese sushi knives with yet another view on grinds. <http://www.leevalley.com/gifts/page.asp?page=46673&category=4,104,45477&abspage=1&ccurrency=1&SID=> The only thing I'll say is that the chisel grind on my Emerson CQC-7B doesn't cut carrots laterally worth a damn. You just can't keep a straight line.

Now on to the blade thickness debate. Firstly, my 0.25" SHe doesn't slice carrots well. I've tried it, then reached for the AD when camping. Here are some measurements of the spine width of a couple of my kitchen and non-kitchen blades:
Busse Ad 0.15"
Sabatier 8" Chef 0.125"
Sabatier 6" Chef 0.110"
Sabatier 4" Chef 0.098"
No-Name Chinese cleaver 0.010"
That said, methinks the 0.125" is pretty good for spine thickness. I think you could go down to 0.010" pretty easily too. Two inches in blade depth is going to keep it plenty stiff. So is the fact that it's INFI. Speaking of stiffness, I'd say that the NICK, as presented, is pretty much a chopper and should be fairly stiff. I like a little flexibility in the general use knives and a boning or salmon/fillet should have a decent amount of flexibility. I have another old Sabatier 8" blade that is pretty whippy: Doesn't get used much. It is also much harder to sharpen the end of the blade. As I draw it across my steel, it bends and messes up the sharpening angle at the tip.

There's my verbal barf. Enjoy. :p

Cheers,
BJB :D
 
How about a Badger 3 that thin? would be the perfect steak knife!!!!!
See Darkhog I told you thin is in baby :D
 
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