Broken full flat ground during batoning

EngrSorenson said:
On paper it would be helpful, due to the slight increase in moment of inertia (assuming everything else is equal).
I think it's very likely there's other problems which supersede that, and I imagine it doesn't matter very much comparatively.

B Bearzilla911 your issue isn't a problem of full flat grind- there's plenty of companies that make great examples of FFG knives that are designed to take that kind of abuse.
ESEE 3, 4 and 6 are ubiquitous examples. Not all knives are created equal, or even with the same expectation of abuse.
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if we're going to engineering talk, we're gonna need some math equations posted.....
 
jbmonkey said:
if we're going to engineering talk, we're gonna need some math equations posted.....
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jbmonkey said:
you don't even have to axe nicely, Senpai......

get noticed Dan......post those equations.....
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Approximating a FFG cross section as an isosceles triangle...
Ix = (t*w^3)*1/36

Approximating a scandi grind cross section as a rectangle... (slight over-sell)
Ix = (t*w^3)*1/12

Where:
t = blade stock thickness
w = blade width

By inspection you'll see that the scandi grind has (almost) 3x the resistance to "bending" as the FFG. (here bending refers to any load or impact that would cause a bending stress.)
now again, there's a lot of other things at play here... but on paper the scandi grind cross section is more robust.
 
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EngrSorenson said:
On paper it would be helpful, due to the slight increase in moment of inertia (assuming everything else is equal).
I think it's very likely there's other problems which supersede that, and I imagine it doesn't matter very much comparatively.

B Bearzilla911 your issue isn't a problem of full flat grind- there's plenty of companies that make great examples of FFG knives that are designed to take that kind of abuse.
ESEE 3, 4 and 6 are ubiquitous examples. Not all knives are created equal, or even with the same expectation of abuse.
Click to expand...
I would be more suspicious except that the grain looked very uniform after breaking. I did not keep the blade to demonstrate. Too much stuff around to keep broken knives. Also, the edge had held up so well before failure, and again, I used it hard for a while. Still disappointing though. Basically I am giving them the benefit of the doubt, but will be watching the others to see if this isn't a fluke. I know D2 on paper should be significantly less tough than ESEE's 1095.
 
EngrSorenson said:
Approximating a FFG cross section as an isosceles triangle...
Ix = (t*w^3)*1/36

Approximating a scandi grind cross section as a rectangle... (slight over-sell)
Ix = (t*w^3)*1/12

Where:
t = blade stock thickness
w = blade width

By inspection you'll see that the scandi grind has (almost) 3x the resistance to "bending" as the FFG. (here bending refers to any load or impact that would cause a bending stress.)
now again, there's a lot of other things at play here... but on paper the scandi grind cross section is more robust.
Click to expand...
I'm gonna need this to be peer reviewed........ D Danke42
 
I have never quite understood the need to beat a knife down into some heavy piece of wood with a club.

Doing so will, for sure, prove or disprove the durability of that blade . . .but so what?

Use an ax, hatchet or entrenching tool instead.
 
VorpelSword said:
I have never quite understood the need to beat a knife down into some heavy piece of wood with a club.

Doing so will, for sure, prove or disprove the durability of that blade . . .but so what?

Use an ax, hatchet or entrenching tool instead.
Click to expand...
I believe the idea is that a large knife is generally lighter than those things, more versatile in other uses, and CAN be used to split wood in a pinch. So if you're a back-country hiker/hunter or survivalist type, travelling long distances with just a pack and see yourself needing to make fires frequently, and needing to split larger wood to do it, then it's a portable one-and-done option. But this really only works if you also bring a good folding saw or a bow saw to process baton-able pieces.

I'm not an advocate of this, I'm an axe and saw guy. But that's the idea. I blame Nutnfancy for the last decade of forum nerds talking about batoning as though it's the be-all-end-all of knife design.
 
When I am too lazy to walk 20 feet to the garage to get an axe, I just grab the knife on my belt and start batoning. Make some feather sticks, use a ferro rod, all the good stuff. Obviously a hatchet or axe are better suited to splitting than a knife. Batoning is fun though 😋.
 
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