BUCK 110 Auto

As promised...

*Spoiler alert* This knife is awesome!

This is no conversion. This is a purpose built auto. Everything about it is tight, clean, and beautiful. A fair amount of thought went into this design. Anyone can build an auto from scratch, but to take something as primitive (and iconic) as a 110 and make a dependable auto that maintains the traditional lines was no easy task. Think about it... all of those 110 auto conversions out there have no factory warranty, will never receive factory service, and cost similar money!

Coil spring in a machined receptacle in the bolsters? Yeah... done right!


Minutiae time...
Starting at the blade, the choil is ground / chamfered so that it doesn't hang up on the release tab when closing.

Here you can see how it interacts with the tab (blade is at 90 degrees)


Here's the back side of the front liner. Cut out for clearance for the button. The button is rocker type that appears to be fastened to the liner, but could be fastened on the bottom side of the front bolster. I'll have something definitive on this later.


The two scale pins ahead of the button could serve a couple of different purposes. Of course they hold the scale on, but they also protect the button.


The height of the button is barely higher than the pin heads. I like to think it was planned this way.


What was a pleasant surprise was finding that this is no hair trigger. You have to depress the button to what seems like below the surface of the scale, and because it's not a very large button, accidental deployment should be rare.
Well... apparently I don't have a photo for this...

Here's the auto (top) with a standard 2017 110 (bottom). Dimensionally, they're the same, or within the same tolerances. One thing that I'm curious about is the square spring bar on the auto. The standard springs are round bar. Tension from the stock round spring is pretty mild, so perhaps they used a heavier one to maintain more pressure on the tab that holds the blade shut. This would explain why the button is a little stiff.


I have 2 questions for Jeff Hubbard.
1- Do these 2 pins ahead of the button serve any purpose other than to hold the scale on?
2- Is the rear spacer/spring holder the same as a standard 110 and just the spring is different? (I'm going to find out anyway when I put a lanyard on it. :))

If it's the same spring holder, and the front pins do nothing but hold the scales on, I'm thinking some mammoth ivory would look good on this...
 
I love them 2 times.
Ydsc2I0.jpg
 
I've had mine for a while now. It is fast and handy, just what an auto should be.

A note of caution. It comes with a special sheath. In an earlier thread that has since been locked, it was suggested to carry the auto in the special holster supplied. I have and do. It works great and I'm glad I got mine.
 
What is different about the sheath/holster?
I would have to believe the snap down flap is changed for obvious reasons but I'd sure like to see.
 
I was trying to figure out why this special sheath was necessary as well. Now that I have one and have looked it over, the only thing I can think is that they put a heavier piece of leather inside so that the pliability of the standard sheath doesn't cause the button to be accidentally pushed. I'll be carrying mine in an old custom shop open top sheath (or just my front pocket). If I have problems I'll use the supplied sheath or something else entirely different.
Perhaps Jeff Hubbard will provide some insight...
 
The sheath that comes with it with the extra strip of leather is to help eliminate the accidental opening, but it can leave marks on the bolster. I don't know away around that without scratches. I did built a sheath for a guy on here and used a layer of Buckskin to strengthen the Holster and hopefully keep from scratching. Boy, an accidental opening could be painfull.
 
I received mine today.:thumbsup: Fit and finish are great, lots of snap opening up. No pictures...they are all alike, see post #25. Wearing it tomorrow dog training and then dove hunting...maybe pictures after that. Preston
 
I've only seen a few 112 conversions over the years but a factory auto 112 would be on my absolute must have list! I'll wait a few years to see if Buck might consider adding the 112 before I have one converted.
 
pjsjr said:
I received mine today.:thumbsup: Fit and finish are great, lots of snap opening up. No pictures...they are all alike, see post #25. Wearing it tomorrow dog training and then dove hunting...maybe pictures after that. Preston
Click to expand...
Good luck with the doves-I need to get out myself. Shot two early last season to decide if I liked eating them(had never hunted them before).


Yep, I want more!
 
MT_Pokt said:
As promised...

*Spoiler alert* This knife is awesome!

This is no conversion. This is a purpose built auto. Everything about it is tight, clean, and beautiful. A fair amount of thought went into this design. Anyone can build an auto from scratch, but to take something as primitive (and iconic) as a 110 and make a dependable auto that maintains the traditional lines was no easy task. Think about it... all of those 110 auto conversions out there have no factory warranty, will never receive factory service, and cost similar money!

Coil spring in a machined receptacle in the bolsters? Yeah... done right!


Minutiae time...
Starting at the blade, the choil is ground / chamfered so that it doesn't hang up on the release tab when closing.

Here you can see how it interacts with the tab (blade is at 90 degrees)


Here's the back side of the front liner. Cut out for clearance for the button. The button is rocker type that appears to be fastened to the liner, but could be fastened on the bottom side of the front bolster. I'll have something definitive on this later.


The two scale pins ahead of the button could serve a couple of different purposes. Of course they hold the scale on, but they also protect the button.


The height of the button is barely higher than the pin heads. I like to think it was planned this way.


What was a pleasant surprise was finding that this is no hair trigger. You have to depress the button to what seems like below the surface of the scale, and because it's not a very large button, accidental deployment should be rare.
Well... apparently I don't have a photo for this...

Here's the auto (top) with a standard 2017 110 (bottom). Dimensionally, they're the same, or within the same tolerances. One thing that I'm curious about is the square spring bar on the auto. The standard springs are round bar. Tension from the stock round spring is pretty mild, so perhaps they used a heavier one to maintain more pressure on the tab that holds the blade shut. This would explain why the button is a little stiff.


I have 2 questions for Jeff Hubbard.
1- Do these 2 pins ahead of the button serve any purpose other than to hold the scale on?
2- Is the rear spacer/spring holder the same as a standard 110 and just the spring is different? (I'm going to find out anyway when I put a lanyard on it. :))

If it's the same spring holder, and the front pins do nothing but hold the scales on, I'm thinking some mammoth ivory would look good on this...
Click to expand...
What's that sticking out the back end of that standard 2017 110 ?
 
sassafrassdogs3 said:
Wouldn't you feel it opening and be a little careful when you stuck your hand in your pocket? Besides that how many people carry a 110 in their pocket? The button is kind of recessed, I think you should purchase one for yourself and if you think it's too dangerous, sell it.
Click to expand...
Not necessarily, I quit carrying my Brous 2.0 because I found it about half way open in my pocket more than once. I have never had an OTF open in my pocket, I am thinking I bumped into something that hit the side button on the auto versus the top switch on the OTF's (only have MT and one Lightning so I have never used a side button OTF). Almost all OTF's have a blade guide that knocks it off of the slide if it hits something prior to fully opening that acts as a safety.

I have numerous ProTech (and other) side opening auto's with no safety's that have never opened in my pocket so it may be a Brous issue.
 
Last edited:
As an FYI, The pin in front of the button have a purpose. The scale can't be taken off and put back on without messing up the mechanics

Jeff
 
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