Buck 110 - CPM 154, S30V or 420HC?

T

Trout Tamer

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After years of being a knife user and enthusiast, I've finally come around to getting a Buck 110 :o
My question is simply this - which steel do I want to purchase the knife with? BassPro has the 110 with CPM 154, Cabelas has the 110 with S30V, and Wal-Mart sells it with 420HC. Here's the kicker - I've never owned a knife with any of those steels! :eek:

I own knives with AUS6, AUS8, D2, Carbon V, 8670, VG-10, Case CV and Schrade's American-made carbon steel. Having used a decently broad range of steel, I've learned that I appreciate edge-holding ability (wear resistance) and relative ease of sharpening in my regular-use knives. For my purposes and preferences, AUS6 can take a great edge, but it loses it very quickly. The D2 of my Benchmade Griptilian will take a good edge and hold it well, but the edge will chip when introduced to very hard surfaces, such as a fire steel. Both Carbon V and 8670 will take an amazingly sharp edge, hold it well, and not chip when used on hard material.

I'm planning to use the 110 as an EDC, both in town and in the wilderness. Its chores will range from cutting open cardboard boxes to slicing ground sheeting while landscaping to whittling feathersticks in the woods. I value a knife that can hold a sharp edge and will resharpen relatively easily with a diamond hone.

Given the above parameters, in which of the three blade steels would y'all recommend I buy my 110?
 
I have a 110 in each of the steels you mentioned, as well as BG-42. My favorite steel of the ones you mentioned, is the CPM154 on the BassPro 110. The CPM154 takes a fine edge and holds it well. The BP110 I got was the sharpest 'out of the box' blade I have ever experienced. In fact, I was so impressed that I bought a second BP110. As always, your mileage may vary.
 
420HC is similar to AUS-6, CPM154 is similar to VG-10, S30V has even more wear resistance. I've had a 154CM and I'm about to get a CPM154 which is even better ! Try the CPM154 ,you'll like it !
 
I have and use both 154CM and S30V as EDC knives. IIRC, the Bass Pro 110 uses CPM154, usually considered an upgrade over 154CM. Of the two steels that I have, S30V is my favorite, but only slightly and it's going to take a bit more sharpening after heavy use than the 154CM to get the edge back. 'Course... it'll hold that edge somewhat longer than 154CM, assuming the cutting conditions are equal.

If I were doing the kinds of EDC cutting you describe, I'd probably go with 154CM (or CPM154) over S30V for the slightly easier sharpening and somewhat tougher (not harder) nature of 154CM.
 
I'll float upstream on this one, even though I don't have one in CPM154. Get the $25 Wally World 420HC - it takes an unreal edge - and can return it with less than a collection of diamond hones. In fact, the basic Spyderco 'Sharpmaker' is perfect for returning it's edge. While I have seen broken tips, chips are few and far between. Of course, avoiding hardened steel when you slice is a good step in that direction. Seriously, for a worker - 420HC is perfect. My AG 110 in S30V - and my BG-42 'Custom Shop' 110s are super - but only for real slicing/cutting. Besides, if you just hate the big old clunker, you aren't out much moola. More likely, like the rest of us loons, you'll love it - and get them all. Then you won't cut cardboard - or take any chances with your 'fine' blades... and you'll be like the rest of us Buck-loons!

Stainz
 
Shell out $27.00 for a stock 420HC one first.

You might be surprised at how well it will do. :thumbup:
 
Any of the Bucks you mentioned will preform well and as BCCL said try the 420HC
you will like her....I use them all (S30V,BG42,CPM154,420HC)rotating monthly sometimes weekly,including a Kalinga folder(model 415)with the 420HC.
 
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I really like Buck's 420HC, it has proven to be very reliable and it holds an edge well. I would go with the that for my first 110 to really use, then after you decide you want a nicer one to look at, go for the one in 154cm.
 
I have each of those listed; CPM154, 420HC, and S30V. I really like them all, and would probably recommend the CPM154 since I haven't got to work out the S30V much yet. On the other hand, the 420HC is so easy to resharpen. Well, for less than $30, I guess I would go with the 420HC, just to be sure you like the knife design. Did anyone mention BG-42 from the custom shop...so many choices!
 
I've used a good selection of Supersteel knives, Carbon steel, 1095, VG-10, AUS-6, AUS-8, ATS-55, S30V, 440V, H-1, CPM-154, and ZDP-189

and you know what, for *MY* cutting purposes (cutting cardboard, goofing around with whittling a large stick into a smaller stick, etc...) Buck's "lowly" 420HC works just as well as the Supersteels, gets wickedly sharp, and it sharpens up a heck of a lot easier to boot, in fact, it's one of the easiest to sharpen steels I've used, no it won't hold an edge as long as S30V or ZDP-189, but it won't dull when you look at it funny like 420J2 either....

Buck's implementation and Bos's heat treat of 420HC really does make this a nice *user* steel

try the 110 in 420HC first, to see how you like the knife as a whole, no point in spending $60+ on a Supersteel/Custom and find out you hate the knife, if you decide you like the knife, then spring for a "better" steel version
 
Another vote for the Buck 420HC. I have one in BG42, and I love the way it cuts. The BG42 holds an edge longer than 420HC, but it takes about twice as long to sharpen. Give the 420HC a try and if you like it, you could always upgrade to a custom with your choice of steel. You would then have a nice Buck along with one you coculd use for messy jobs.

John
 
mete said:
420HC is similar to AUS-6, CPM154 is similar to VG-10, S30V has even more wear resistance.
Click to expand...
In the Buck paper that came with my Alaskan, there's a chart that shows Buck's 420HC as being better than AUS8. Since I've never used Buck's 420HC, I can't make any determinations, though the following is found on Buck's website.

TYPES OF BLADE STEELS

No matter how good the blade steel, there are always trade-offs. Corrosion-resistance vs. edge-retention. Edge-retention vs. sharpening ability.

Take S30V Steel. It provides the very best in edge retention and tensile strength, but is more difficult to re-sharpen and needs proper care. 17-7PH Steel resists extreme corrosion like salt water, but can’t match the edge retention of harder steels.

S30V

This is the absolute best blade steel available and its made in America. S30V contains carbon as well as high amounts of chromium, molybdenum and vanadium. Double-tempered – it can be hardened to a Rockwell hardness of RC 59.5-61.

BG-42 Steel

An extremely high-performance, bearing grade, martensitic stainless steel with significantly more carbon and molybdenum plus vanadium for improved edge retention and strength – it can be hardened to Rockwell hardness of Rc 61-62.

ATS-34 Steel

A very high carbon, chromium martensitic stainless steel, with additional amounts of carbon and molybdenum that add significant edge-holding properties and corrosion resistance. This steel can be hardened to Rockwell hardness of Rc 60-61.

420HC Steel

This is Buck’s standard blade material because it combines the excellent wear resistance of high carbon alloys with the corrosion resistance of chromium stainless steels. Add our exclusive heat-treat process for superior corrosion resistance and you have excellent tensile strength, hardness and wear resistance. 420HC Steel is a High Carbon (HC) version of standard 420 martensitic stainless steels – they can be can be hardened to a Rockwell hardness of Rc 58.

BuckAlaskan_3.jpg


Buck110AlaskanFolder_2.jpg


This is the Buck Alaskan.
 
I vote starting out with the stock 420HC. Then, when you're completely enamored with the Buck 110, buy a Custom Shop version in BG-42.

Buck110s.jpg


Blade steels you see there are 440C, 425M, 420HC, ATS-34, S30V, and BG-42. ATS-34 is essentially the same as 154CM. However, I don't know if 154CM is significantly different from the 154CPM in the Bass Pro knife. Anyone?
 
Please use the proper terms . ATS-34 = 154CM, CPM154 = RWL-34 www.crucibleservice.com has a description of their CPM process . The RWL-34 process is a powder metal process similar to CPM. Either CPM154 or RWL-34 are about as fine a blade as you can find.
 
I don't know about starting out with just the stock Buck 110. If a person is into those knives, I reckon that's good advice; but for the folks who just want to get a single knife so they can either use it or collect it, I recommend going for the best knife for the money. That, I think, has to be the Alaskan. If they like that, then they should get the standard version and go on from there. Although I like my Alaskan just fine, to me the Buck 110 is still just too heavy and slow. It's not a tactical knife, nor is it a good EDC for most people.

I don't really know how good 420HC really is as a blade steel. Some think it's just great, but where does it really fall in to the family of steels? It's an exceptionally strong knife with a good grade of steel, but people usually know if they'll like it or not before they buy. I also don't know why the only S30V version seems to be available only from Cabela's. I think it would be a popular mainstay in the Buck line.
 
I've got Buck 110's in 420HC, BG-42, ATS-34, CPM154, and S30V.

My favorite so far is the S30V.
For whatever reason I can seem to be able to get it sharper than the others.
Not much of a difference, but just barely noticable.
 
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