Buck 110 - CPM 154, S30V or 420HC?

i just got the wally world version after some debate on the same question.

if you plan to sharpen it often enough get the cheap version.

i have a few bucks. some with 420HC some with 154CM. all are good.

for me the price makes the knife a user, much like most bucks.

i bought it to take to the cottage for general use, for a hiking day pack, and as an EDC at home. so far its super sharp (out fo the box), its kind of heavy but OK to carry. it has some blade play but nothing to make me hate it.

if i lose it its not so bad in comparison to dropping my sebenza wich is literally an order of magnitude more expensive. note that my more costly knives are not drawer queens: i use them all and enjoy it. however my bucks are easier to reach for in may situations becasue they are rugged and not expensive.

right now I EDC one of a SAK soldier, the 110, a Spyderco Delica 4, a small Sebenza 21, a Fallkniven PXL, or a Fallkniven U2. all have 'advanced steels' in comparison to the 110, except the SAK. in spite of this the 110 rocks in 420HC in this group.
 
After years of being a knife user and enthusiast, I've finally come around to getting a Buck 110 :o
My question is simply this - which steel do I want to purchase the knife with? BassPro has the 110 with CPM 154, Cabelas has the 110 with S30V, and Wal-Mart sells it with 420HC. Here's the kicker - I've never owned a knife with any of those steels! :eek:

I own knives with AUS6, AUS8, D2, Carbon V, 8670, VG-10, Case CV and Schrade's American-made carbon steel. Having used a decently broad range of steel, I've learned that I appreciate edge-holding ability (wear resistance) and relative ease of sharpening in my regular-use knives. For my purposes and preferences, AUS6 can take a great edge, but it loses it very quickly. The D2 of my Benchmade Griptilian will take a good edge and hold it well, but the edge will chip when introduced to very hard surfaces, such as a fire steel. Both Carbon V and 8670 will take an amazingly sharp edge, hold it well, and not chip when used on hard material.

I'm planning to use the 110 as an EDC, both in town and in the wilderness. Its chores will range from cutting open cardboard boxes to slicing ground sheeting while landscaping to whittling feathersticks in the woods. I value a knife that can hold a sharp edge and will resharpen relatively easily with a diamond hone.

Given the above parameters, in which of the three blade steels would y'all recommend I buy my 110?

On my edge holding tests on manila rope Buck 110 CPM 154 and BG-42 go side by side, BG slightly better.

http://playground.sun.com/~vasya/Manila-Rope-Results.html

However 420HC show pretty good results as well if you check it's result. For price/performance it is clear winner.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Of the three mentioned,it's S30V for me.The other two aren't no slouches either though.
 
I'll throw a monkey wrench in here and vote for the Benchmade HD 13100 Hardtail. It's Buck 110 styled but with a D2 blade, Axis lock, and G10 inserts. These can be found for around $150 and feels, IMO, just like the 110 but its like the upgraded Mercedes version. :)
 
I recommend that you get a 110 with the ATS-34 or the S30V (the best steels in my opinion or if your willing to drop the extra money get a quality Damascus blade as they are the best steel available if the blade is folded properly
 
I'll throw a monkey wrench in here and vote for the Benchmade HD 13100 Hardtail.
Maybe if Benchmade came out with a version without the Harley name and the stupid bad-ass-wannabe skulls plastered all over it... :rolleyes:
 
Maybe if Benchmade came out with a version without the Harley name and the stupid bad-ass-wannabe skulls plastered all over it... :rolleyes:

I know what you mean, but these can be mod'ed to get rid of that. IMO, if BM came out with a non-Harley version they'd sell A LOT of them.
 
Shell out $27.00 for a stock 420HC one first.

You might be surprised at how well it will do. :thumbup:

I absolutely concur.:thumbup: You can't possibly lose.

I've got all these wonderful custom and semi-custom knives -- tactical folders, fixed blades, slip joints. And I very often just throw a Buck 110 in my pocket.
 
I also recommend getting the 420hc from Wally first.
If it turns out to be a design you like, then get the BP in CPM-154. Or call Buck and see if they have any BG-42 from the Custom shop.
 
Buck S30v is great, I use one of their skinners in S30v and have zero complaints.
 
The Bass Pro Buck 110 in CPM 154 is superb... picked one up a couple of weeks ago and found it extremely easy to sharpen, almost like a good high carbon steel. Holds an edge as well as S30V, in real life use. The 110 blade geometry makes it a great slicer. The blade coating is also extremely hard and shows no signs of use even after cutting some gritty stuff like cardboard, old vines, etc.
 
The Bass Pro Buck 110 in CPM 154 is superb... picked one up a couple of weeks ago and found it extremely easy to sharpen, almost like a good high carbon steel. Holds an edge as well as S30V, in real life use. The 110 blade geometry makes it a great slicer. The blade coating is also extremely hard and shows no signs of use even after cutting some gritty stuff like cardboard, old vines, etc.

I tested all four my Bucks 110 - CPM S30V, CPM 154, BG-42 and 420HC. CPM 154 on Buck 110 Bass Pro shows better results then CPM S30V on Buck 110 Cabela's Alaskan Guide.

Buck TiAlN coating is best in the industry, most durable and also nice looking. Usually TiN is matte, but TiAlN lokks as good as BoronCarbide.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
How's about one in ZDP-189? Nah, I'm just kidding. I have a Wally World 420HC. Takes an amazingly sharp edge. Doesn't hold it as long, but it's easy to sharpen!
 
there is literally no circumstance under which i'd choose 420c over the other two options. CPM-154 is my preferred steel in that list, although S30V has it's advantages
 
:thumbup: for newbies using the search function :)

:thumbdown: for not reading the dates :(
 
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