Buck blade steel

My question is why not offer 440C in the custom shop. I think it would have great nostalgic value and it's a good steel.

So I guess of the steel Buck has offered in standard knives over the years, the best to worst would be 440c then 425M then 420HC ?

Also, if I decide to cut wire with a knife it won't be with a Buck knife unless I have to. I'll buy something I don't care about.
 
I keep hearing about how great it's supposed to be, which is why I bought Buck knives. I was sold on the Brand.

But when I actually go to use them, I'm consistently disappointed in edge retention. In my own personal experience the hype does not live up to the reality.

It makes me wonder how the "satisfied" folks gauge edge retention. What are they cutting? What are they comparing it to? What's the function of these knives? Are they only to be used to cut paper and cheese?
 
I feel like maybe I need to clarify something. The "cab tire" I referred to is this stuff.

I wasn't cutting the copper with my knife. This was a camping type situation and I was making cords for generators and RV's. I chopped the end of the cable off with an axe and used my knife to cut the hard rubbery cord insulation and the poly wire insulation. On the latter task, the knife blade came into contact with the copper, so lightly that it didn't cut any of the strands. At no time was I severing copper with my knife.

Alright, I wasn't cutting wire with my knife. I was cutting rubber and plastic.
 
I completely worked up a hog that weighted between 300-400lbs with a new Buck 110 with the factory edge on it. This was from the field to the freezer and I haven't sharpened it since for everyday use. I would touch it up before I was to do another deer or hog to make the job easier, but it would still process another large hog or deer without touching it up if I had too. That's good enough for me.
 
MarfanTheMartian said:
What are they cutting? What are they comparing it to? What's the function of these knives? Are they only to be used to cut paper and cheese?
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That's the key to the issue right there. I don't drive nails with a torque wrench. Sure, it could probably sink the nail but it's not the right tool for the job.

Hunting knives are typically used for hunting related tasks. The blade steel, edge profile, hardness, shape, etc... are all designed for cutting meat, hide, and other game related materials.
If you want to cut trees, shrubs, wood, or other greenery; pick something with an appropriate blade shape, edge profile, grind, and metal.

Complaining about a blades edge retention when you're not using it for its intended purpose is like getting mad at the maker because you can't clear shooting lanes with your fillet knife.

It's tough to give sympathy to someone who complains because the wrong tool for the job fails at doing the job or is broken as a result.

That's my $0.02. Don't spend it all in one place...
 
MT_Pokt said:
It's tough to give sympathy to someone who complains because the wrong tool for the job fails at doing the job or is broken as a result.
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Ok. And I'll give you that the ranger isn't a general purpose knife. Here's Buck's usage guide.. See under Drop Point where it says "It can also be used as a general work knife." Well guess what kind of blade is on the Bantam? Yep, it's a drop point, which means it's officially approved for use as a general work knife by the manufacturer.

It was the Buck Bantam Drop Point Official General Purpose Work Knife that couldn't hold a candle to a Cutco when cutting (polystyrene?) model plastic, or making feather sticks when compared to a Mora craftline q.

Thank you for helping me validate my complaint that it should have been better at those tasks.
 
I'm glad you were not actually cutting copper wire. Thanks for clarifying that. I cut more than paper and cheese and use 420HC for many general work tasks. I just have not experienced the same problems you have. I do keep my knives sharp and tend to touch them up all the time, just out of habit. I've used Cutco in the kitchen, I have no problem with them. I would love to give them a good test, but my dear sweet mother would ring my neck if I wrecked her overpriced precious knives. Mora, whatever. Mine is sitting in a box with an Opinel. They work fine, they just don't get my blood pumping like a Buck.
 
jec88, you don't touch up your knives after a big job like that? Not everyone perceives sharpness the same way. I'd wager that if I used your knife in it's current condition I'd probably think it needed work.

BuckShack, I'm not extolling the virtues of Cutco or Mora products. I'm just telling you what my frame of reference is. I do have an opinion about Cutco and Mora, but I think that's a different conversation.

Like I've said before, I bought the Buck's on brand value. The point of my participation in this thread is to communicate to the world at large that, imho, that brand value is undeserved, based on my experiences. In other words, I would not recommend a Buck knife to anyone and I want people to know what they're buying BEFORE money is spent.

I know people identify with corporate brands. I'm not a psychologist but I think it would be an interesting conversation about how humans can identify emotionally with a corporate brand. I think we've seen, in this thread, people responding to brand criticism as a nearly personal attack, as if I were criticizing a relative.

I think if Buck was a new company starting out today they would be judged honestly. I definitely think there is a fan-boy level brand recognition that prevents some people from seeing Buck's faults.
 
True, but for me, about the toughest job I'm going to use my knife for would be working up a deer. If its sharp enough to do that, I figure I'm good for everyday chores. After the hog, its still sharp enough to do a deer, but I would touch it up if I were about to do another deer. With the Buck steel, it would just take a couple of minutes to get it razor sharp again anyway. I do have some knives that I guess would be considered super steel? I have a mini griptilian with the cpm 20 cv. I wouldn't dare let that get too dull because it would probably be a chore to get it back razor sharp.
But between the Buck and the Mini griptilian, it was the Buck that I grabbed first to do the hog. ( I did use a saw too) And there is nothing wrong with the grip! It's a great all around knife that I can't find a fault with and that I really love too. I just know the buck will work because it has always worked for those types of jobs and I guess that makes me a fanboy.
 
I'm an electrician, I carry a Buck 303 everyday all day at work and at home. I use my knife say 15 times a day for various tasks ranging from opening packages to scraping tile grout off a floor plate. Today I stripped a bit of 10 gauge with the sheepsfoot blade because I couldn't get my cuts into the tight space, then scored about 4 feet of drywal so I could snap it off...I'll probably touch up that blade by the weekend, maybe. It still has a nice working edge on it so I'll see.
My point to this is there is absolutely nothing wrong with the steel in my little knife in a real work environment. Will it " pop hair" heck I don't even know why I would need to know that! I just sold a small sebenza that had a very small knick in the blade from opening a box that shouldn't have had metal in it....S30v big deal super steel? My knives are tools and that's what Buck makes them to be...and as a guy that uses his everyday I say the steel is great and it holds a working edge every bit as well as that 350 dollar sebbie did. /rant
 
Just stripping SOW wire one time does not constitute a test. Then coming on here having just joined with 3 posts to say brand Z is better than brand X is just not a sure stance.When guys on here have used and tested various steels and knife brands for years and written and discussed them over and above your example. There are some here with greater experience under their belt and know better than to do such. Some guys can put better edges on a knife than others. Buck's 425M steel compares closely to 440A and is a step up from 420HC. I have stripped 4 gauge wire using a Buck blade of 420 steel. No problem. I've gutted, skinned and quartered a large mule deer buck with one and it will do it (not touching it up during the process). Much comes down to heat treating and how you sharpen it. Perhaps you had used your knife more than you recall or it could have been a bad batch from the factory. Many factors that you could consider. Rather than jumping to downing the entire company and it's products. DM
 
I have read this entire thread and I have come to the conclusion MarfanTheMartian does not like Buck Knives. I would suggest
MarfanTheMartian sell them and get what he likes. I use Buck Knives and like them. I do own a CRKT skinner I use during hunting season only because I do not have a 103. BTW the CRKT was a prize I won in a Traditional archery distance shoot. I buy all my Bucks. If the knives do not do what I want I move on to some thing that will work. I do not always cut things I should with my knives, but I do expect to sharpen them when I am done. I do agree Bucks 420HC does not hold an edge as well as Bucks S30V. But then I had to buy diamond stones to sharpen S30V, and did not need diamond for 420HC.
It is so easy to go on a forum and complain (as happens on all forums) but it does not do much to help the situation. So sell and buy what makes you happy. ;)
 
I have a question for David, Frank, or any other steel man who knows his stuff. I'm considering adding another Buck 100 series of my favorite design - I can buy another older 440C version (have two already) or one of the newer, limited editions in D2 steel. As a hunting blade which one would be the best for edge retention? Thanks, OH
 
David Martin said:
Just stripping SOW wire one time does not constitute a test.
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I agree. You should finish reading the rest of what I wrote...oh wait, it doesn't matter because I'm a new user here. Scientifically speaking, edge retention is based on how many posts someone has.

SWBKT said:
It is so easy to go on a forum and complain (as happens on all forums) but it does not do much to help the situation. So sell and buy what makes you happy. ;)
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The term "forum" implies free conversation. But if only accolades are welcome then it isn't conversation, it's a circle jerk.
 
Marfan buddy, you have something of value to say, but you are losing out in your approach - you catch more flies with sugar than you do with sh*%. These discussions on blade steel and Buck's choice of them, and why, have gone on long before you got here and in a much more harmonious way - try your search engine. I find that the 440C edge lasts longer than the edge on the same model in 420HC - but I can still use the knife for it's intended purpose if it is made of 420HC. I can't say the 425MOD edge is better or worse than the 440C or 420HC, I'm not sure I even have a Buck Knife (that I use) made of 425MOD. I've cleaned quite a few deer with different models of old Schrade USA knives made of carbon steel - my Buck's in 440C and 420HC out perform them all, but that is due to blade thickness, another design consideration. OH
 
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BuckShack said:
My question is why not offer 440C in the custom shop. I think it would have great nostalgic value and it's a good steel.

So I guess of the steel Buck has offered in standard knives over the years, the best to worst would be 440c then 425M then 420HC ?
Also, if I decide to cut wire with a knife it won't be with a Buck knife unless I have to. I'll buy something I don't care about.
Click to expand...

Could be wrong but I was under the impression that Buck moved away from 440C because it caused too much wear & tear on their equipment when the were punching out the blades. I imagine that would still be the case even if they only offered it thru the custom shoppe. Be that as it may, Buck did release their 110 "Federal" last year in 440C.
 
Badhammer said:
Could be wrong but I was under the impression that Buck moved away from 440C because it caused too much wear & tear on their equipment when the were punching out the blades. I imagine that would still be the case even if they only offered it thru the custom shoppe. Be that as it may, Buck did release their 110 "Federal" last year in 440C.
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That's what I heard too. But I see S30V as a regular offering in the custom shop and limited runs of 5160, CPM 154, BG42 etc. from time to time. I figured some of these are as hard or harder than 440C but I really don't know.
 
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