Buck Knives: edge retention test

David Martin

David Martin

Moderator
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
19,520
During this week I sharpened 3 (1991)V52 Selector blades, a clip and two drop points and used them to cut 1/4" sisal rope . All were of the same steel, same grind, same year mfg. so same heat treat and sharpened to the same edge angle . Only sharpened to different grits . #1 was stopped at 280 grit on a Norton fine crystollon, #2 was stopped at 600 grit on a Norton fine India
and #3 was stopped at 1000 grit on a Translucent Arkansas and stropped .
Which cut the most rope ? DM ;)
 
I say #1 because the courser grain allowed it to cut the rope easier . Kind of like a micro serrated edge.
 
I've always tested using the same final grit, so I have no data.
But I'll guestimate at #3, especially if you were push-cutting.

What did you use as an end point?
That is to say, "at what point did you end each run?"
 
Frank, The way ALL the cuts were made was: the knife only touched the rope nothing else . One end of the rope was tighted in a vise the other end was 1-1.5' of lose rope which I would hold (the end 1inch to 1.5 inch) and cut close to my fingers . Take up the slack cut again ect. . When I got close to the vise my wife would loosen the vise an pull out more rope . She helped w/ making sure the count was accurate . She usually brings the tape and bandaids to these affairs as she knows her husband . The cut was a pull type cut from choil to tip slice as made while skinning .Hope this answers it . DM

CAUTION--I was wearing my meat cutter glove of stainless and kevlar .
 
David Martin said:
Frank, The way ALL the cuts were made was: the knife only touched the rope nothing else . One end of the rope was tighted in a vise the other end was 1-1.5' of lose rope which I would hold (the end 1inch to 1.5 inch) and cut close to my fingers . Take up the slack cut again ect. . When I got close to the vise my wife would loosen the vise an pull out more rope . She helped w/ making sure the count was accurate . She usually brings the tape and bandaids to these affairs as she knows her husband . The cut was a pull type cut from choil to tip slice as made while skinning .Hope this answers it . DM

CAUTION--I was wearing my meat cutter glove of stainless and kevlar .
Click to expand...

The gloves are a great idea. As sharp as these things can get, a bandaid and tape just might not be enough! :eek:
 
David Martin said:
Frank, The way ALL the cuts were made was: the knife only touched the rope nothing else . One end of the rope was tighted in a vise the other end was 1-1.5' of lose rope which I would hold (the end 1inch to 1.5 inch) and cut close to my fingers . Take up the slack cut again ect. . When I got close to the vise my wife would loosen the vise an pull out more rope . She helped w/ making sure the count was accurate . She usually brings the tape and bandaids to these affairs as she knows her husband . The cut was a pull type cut from choil to tip slice as made while skinning .Hope this answers it . DM

CAUTION--I was wearing my meat cutter glove of stainless and kevlar .
Click to expand...

Thanks David.

It is good for knife people to have understanding helpmates.

Slicing cuts. I'll still guess #3, the finest edge.
 
Yes, Dave I'll tell tomorrow after 6 pm .
People here have been good to me, friendly and mannerly and many have given stuff to me and others . I tell you what, I'll up the ante . Who ever guesses the correct grit and how many cuts it did (well close, within 5) I'll give to that one a brand new twin grit
Arkansas sharpening stone new in the box . It has a soft white stone on one side and black hard on the other, 2x8" size and comes in a wooden box w/ a hinged lid and their name burned into it . A Pinnacle brand sold by Woodcraft around pg. 89-90 if you get their catalogs . Or to view go to www.woodcraft.com Thanks DM
 
I think this has run its course . The #1 blade (sharpened to 280 grit) cut 320 pieces of sisal rope before it started skating some and I pressed it to 375 . But I would have sharpened it at "350" cuts . The #2 blade initially cut quicker than #1 but after 100 cuts lost that ability . It started skating at 160 cuts and I pressed it to 225, I would have sharpened it at around "210" .
The #3 blade never got out of the starting gate . I ended up cutting 3 pieces but it took 4 good pressed slices to complete each cut . So, I didn't even count it just marked it down as being a good representation of how these polished edged blades preform . I tried it later to see if it would shave arm hair and it did . Upon examination under magnification #3 had the most burrs around 25-30% of its edge . #2 had 20% and #1 had very little edge deformation and only two or three burrs the size of a needles point .
So, if you want edge retention sharpen your blades on more coarse stones and this agrees with Joe Talmadge writing a sticky at the top of the page in maintenance forum .
Buck also sends their knives out sharpened very coarse . Just look at the edge bevel and you can see the deep scratch pattern . Take a credit card and draw the edge against this bevel and you'll hear it hitting the deep grooves . I enjoyed conducting this test and learned a lot about edge retention . DM
 
Good Post David! I also agree with cutting the credit cards up! :) They aren't nothing but trouble!
I have always kept in mind what I wanted an edge to do before deciding on how fine of an edge the knife really needs. You can get longer service from a toothy edge, But you wouldn't want to use it for shaving.
 
Thanks DM! Just got around to reading this thread. Good info, and it confirms what I've thought for some time.
 
Thanks guys . In light of this one can draw certain conclusions: 1) Sharpening a knife up to 300 grit should give good edge retention and cover 99% of your cutting needs . Carrying a knifes edge up to 600 grit and above does have a place and its when you want to cut something quick with little pressure . Like digging out a deep sticker from your foot, removing parasites that have bored into animals hide (warbles) or castrating livestock . Something where your more concerned with cutting quickly than edge retention (paper cutting). You may think of others . The test though it has room for improvement, is repeatable requiring little equipment . Other than a vise, 2-3 similar knife blades, sisal rope and your sharpening stones . (I'd recommend getting a filleting glove). An area of concern would be how to measure the pressure your using on each cutting stroke . To date the only accurate way to measure that is with the CATRA . There are sharp guys here who perhaps could think of other tests to do inorder to enjoy your Buck knives . DM
 
Thanks for the information, David. That's worth knowing.
 
David Martin,If you want to see a buck 110 cut ,try sharpening a damascus 110 up with a course edge,that is something else i'll tell ya!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top