Buck Marksman, looking for comments...

Makael said:

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That is a fine looking knife. Thanks for posting. I think that I like the look of the tanto blade a little bit more than the drop point blade (though I could live with either and be a happy camper) and I know I like the scales of the drop point more than the tanto scales.
I know where this kind of thinking goes to, which is buying both and then seeing which is in my pocket the most over time. I have no idea how I could make that work but I will take it as it comes.
So what is your estimation about the blade stock thickness behind the edge on your tanto does it seem reasonably consistent to you? Thanks.

PS: oh boy you have both non identical twins. Would be a shame to not keep the boys together besides a set wold make for a much nicer collection.Then there are the Silver Knights. The odd green G10 version. Oh man shot show 2019 could bring even more.
 
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I've
moray campbell said:
that is a fine looking knife. thanks for posting. I think I like look the tanto blade a little bit more than the drop point blade (though I could live with either and be a happy camper) and I know I like the scales of the drop point more than the tanto scales.
I know where this goes to, which is buying both and then seeing which is in my pocket the most over time. I have no idea how I could make that work but I will take it as it comes.
So what is your estimation about the blade stock thickness behind the edge on your tanto does it seem reasonably consistent to you? Thanks.
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Owned three versions. I kept the Tanto due to how much I like the raised pattern on the scales. It's a kick to flip one handed and close one handed. Pinch the scales and lock bar between your thumb and middle finger. Flip the blade open with forefinger. To close duplicate how you hold the knife. Push down on the top of the blade with your forefinger, the pressure will lift the unique lock up and release the blade to closed. Practice and you can open and close in less than one second.
 
I never paid any attention to the blade stock. Buck seems consistant.
 
Makael said:
I've

Owned three versions. I kept the Tanto due to how much I like the raised pattern on the scales. It's a kick to flip one handed and close one handed. Pinch the scales and lock bar between your thumb and middle finger. Flip the blade open with forefinger. To close duplicate how you hold the knife. Push down on the top of the blade with your forefinger, the pressure will lift the unique lock up and release the blade to closed. Practice and you can open and close in less than one second.
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wow the 829 elite as well! Are the scales on this elite black with carbon fiber inlay or is that just the lighting? I just realized they only did a 250 pc. run of the elite and they all have to be the same blue color, so forget this last question. I have only seen a blue elite. Have to say I like the blade detail on the elite. So of the three the Tanto 831 is your fav? Also what do you think about the lock strap of the elite compare to the twins strap? I am getting tired, you already said that you kept the tanto. good night.
 
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moray campbell said:
another question about the 830 in particular I saw a couple of videos where there were negative comments about the thickness of the blade behind the edge along with their being very little taper of the spine toward the tip then I saw that there were other videos where it was said to be just fine and not an issue. So did Buck make a change to the blade grind profile and if so in what year of production did that take place? Thank you.
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Was this video on the S35VN exclusive version? That version has a flat grind. The Marksman I have (drop point hollow grind) has no distal taper. The blade stock is the same thickness from pivot to tip. The only taper comes from the drop in the spine intersecting the hollow grind. On the flat grind, there is less stock removal up the blade than on a hollow grind, and the result is a very thick tip. I do not believe any version has a distal taper.

In terms of factory knives in the price range, I found the edge pretty suitable for cardboard cutting, fruit, etc. The hollow grind means it will sort of wedge apple slices apart, etc. But it was an acceptable slicer out of the box to me (for whatever that is worth).
 
Just got an email from SK Blades announcing the future release of a orange G-10 version and a gray G-10 version. Definitely interested in the orange one.
 
moray campbell said:
Hey thanks for the reply and also for posting this video. I did see that and it shows a flaw in the application of this design. I agree I would not be pounding on my bearing/pivot assembly. However it highlights the effect of a jarring impact upon the locking strap. some sort of secondary lock would deal with that but in normal use I cannot imagine this problem being a concern but that is why my post to see what owners have found.

Have other owners experienced any situations which caused the lock to fail? I won't be beating on my knife so that won't occur for my use. Have you considered using some locktite on yor pivot screws to keep them in place?
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I loved mine until I dropped it. The strap pushed straight back and the knife was unable to lock until I could find an Allen wrench to reset it. I use it in the garden now mostly. I unlock it with one hand easily and the blade gets really sharp. Just disappointed that one fall would make it inoperable.
 
It sounds like your Marksman may simply have had two less that tightly set strap lock screws no? This does not sound like a failure of the knife's design just sloppy adjustment from the factory.
This (to me) seems like one of the most sturdy and well designed flipper out there, not only capable of flipping with the best of them but also able to handle heavy duty use every bit as well . I am working to get one myself so I will admit to having a bias. The extreme uniqueness of the locking mechanism just adds to the wonderful and most interesting character (to me) of this knife design that make it so special.

PS: a very simple mod to make the lock strap stay put once you have it set up and screwed down to suit your liking is to use a single tiny dab of crazy glue (off of a tooth pick and not from dispensing from the tube) one at each end of the rectangular alignment stud to lock the strap in place. This will easily open if you remove the screws and lift the strap but otherwise it will hold positive the strap in the desired position. Simple and easy to clean up any residue after and adjustment and then reapply.
 
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You can use blue lock tight also...It'll hold until you remove the screws with a tool and it won't have the frosted look that crazy glue will give it...
 
moray campbell said:
It sounds like your Marksman may simply have had two less that tightly set strap lock screws no? This does not sound like a failure of the knife's design just sloppy adjustment from the factory.
This (to me) seems like one of the most sturdy and well designed flipper out there, not only capable of flipping with the best of them but also able to handle heavy duty use every bit as well . I am working to get one myself so I will admit to having a bias. The extreme uniqueness of the locking mechanism just adds to the wonderful and most interesting character (to me) of this knife design that make it so special.

PS: a very simple mod to make the lock strap stay put once you have it set up and screwed down to suit your liking is to use a single tiny dab of crazy glue (off of a tooth pick and not from dispensing from the tube) one at each end of the rectangular alignment stud to lock the strap in place. This will easily open if you remove the screws and lift the strap but otherwise it will hold positive the strap in the desired position. Simple and easy to clean up any residue after and adjustment and then reapply.
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If it worked fine until dropped, then it's not "sloppy adjustment." The amount of adjustment a knife needs or can take is a design element. This knife is designed for optimum adjustment.

How do you know "a single tiny dab of crazy glue" will work if you don't own the knife and haven't tried it?

I played with the knife and it flips great. It's also big and heavy. I loved playing with at the gun show, but didn't buy it even at $75. I like Hawk designs and own a Ti-lock and GripLock, but some of their designs are "big and heavy" and are not really comfortable for use or in the pocket. Their kind of like engineering marvels that kind of miss the design objective of a "pocket" knife, at least for what I like in a knife. If they had taken about 15-25% off the overall thickness of the knife, it'd be better. Some people have some criticisms, that appear legitimate, of the point on the G10 flat ground version not having enough distal taper w/o reprofiling. I'd suggest you try one before you buy.
 
well if the two locking screws were on the loose side to begin from the factory then a drop on the end of the bar could cause it to shift. It does not need to shift much for the latch or the detent to get out of whack with this design. This assessment is from is from observations of of photographs of the the knife in particular the size of the rectangular opening on the lock strap and the rectangular adjustment stud where it would appear that there is a some amount of slack between the fit of the two parts. I can't be 100% sure by looking but that is I think a reasonable assessment.
I have used crazy glue as a locking compound on lots of other plastic and metal parts including knife parts like screws, clips and such in the past, I prefer it to standard thread lock compounds because it is dirt cheap and if you are discreet it leaves no sign and it is easy to remove at any time using either a sharp tap on the part or some heat or a short soak in Acetone will totally dissolve the cured adhesive. If you just want a screw to stay put but still be easy to remove then some clear high gloss nail polish also works very well though not as strong but just as easy to remove and clean up after.
Up until a cppouple of years or so ago these did come past customs into Canada and I might have found one at a local shop but not today. I too wish this knife was on the smaller size thinner size and even a three inch blade would work for me. I like a three inch blade with a good four finger grip handle so overall length of around 7 - 7.375 long. Never the less I will give one a try and see what I think when I can find one.
As to the SK Blades version in G10 I discussed this with my brother who while not a knife maker is a retired mold maker. His appraisal was that the blade could have kept the same minimal distal taper and had had consistent thickness behind the edge but that to do so would require expensive and sophisticated equipment. Sounds like it was just a not so good choice on Bucks part to grind it the way that they did. I don't know that is just a guess on my part. I am also guessing that Buck did not make a whole lot of the Marksman in either drop point or tanto? I would be curious to know how many were made if anyone has any inside info.
I agree with you that the Hawks don't always design practical knives but they have designed some very interesting ones and the Marksman is to me one of their more interesting and practical designs.
 
I'm going to respectfully disagree with just about everything you've said.

The size of the rectangle in the lock strap is irrelevant. Only the forward most edge of the opening engages the blade when opened or closed. The length and width of the opening are meaningless. It's adjustable so that it can be adjusted as the parts wear, or are dropped. The blade is most certainly harder than the locking strap so erosion over time is inevitable.
The blade is riding bearings which are also adjustable so that you can remove any lateral movement, make the action slower, or make the action faster. The width of the opening compared to the blade thickness is irrelevant because it's not meant to prevent any lateral movement.
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Super glue versus thread lock. I'm locking threads so I'll stick to the media made for this purpose. Super glue or nail polish is your decision, but don't expect any warranty help if you have issues.

Distal taper has been used on knives since the dawn of time. It doesn't take sophisticated equipment to make this happen. This drop point blade is properly made without the distal taper. The cutting edge of a drop point blade is opposite the spine by design. It typically makes for a better slicer and cutter. The only place a distal taper lends any meaningful purpose is to knives made for stabbing and piercing. Distal taper will reduce the blade strength at the tip with the tradeoff being better puncture and stabbing. I just checked and confirmed that I don't have a single drop point blade where I would like for the blade to be thinner at the tip. None...

There were no mistakes in this knife's design. It's right as rain as far as I'm concerned.

Nothing is perfect for everyone so you should be judging whether or not it meets the design objective, and not what you'd like to see, subjectively.

<I know... put the bottle down and step away from the keyboard...>
 
No, the screws on top were tight and didn't move even when dropped. The whole locking mechanism was forced backwards along the long adjustment screw that is inside. It was moved so far back the lock would not engage and the blade just ricocheted off the strap and back into the handle. If it did not have that long set screw, it probably would not have been an issue.

It's a nice knife and I enjoyed it, but after that I would not consider it a sole EDC blade. If I had really needed it for something and was unable to keep the knife open it's pretty useless.
 
unwisefool said:
No, the screws on top were tight and didn't move even when dropped. The whole locking mechanism was forced backwards along the long adjustment screw that is inside. It was moved so far back the lock would not engage and the blade just ricocheted off the strap and back into the handle. If it did not have that long set screw, it probably would not have been an issue.
It's a nice knife and I enjoyed it, but after that I would not consider it a sole EDC blade. If I had really needed it for something and was unable to keep the knife open it's pretty useless.
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My previous post was in response to MT_POKT.
if the screws on the strap were tight then the whole lock assembly and or the back spacer had to have moved backward? Something must have been loose for that to happen no? Did it have a very hard landing (dropped a long way?)? I am surprised to hear this account of yours so thanks for posting. Have you since been able to set the knife back up to function properly?
 
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