Buck Vs Case

[knarfeng]

I have a number of both Case and Buck, and each have strong points and weak points in comparison to one another. For a pure work knife, I would likely go with Buck, from my experience.

One question on the Buck 301:
I've noticed on the more recent models, the tip and part of the edge of the spey blade looks exposed when in the closed position. Does this cause any problems for the pocket material, or when reaching for it in a pocket? I'm considering buying either another 303 or a 301. I don't think the new 303's spey blades are exposed as much as the 301's, but I'm not sure.

Jim

The 303 spey is much less exposed.
I've never caught anything in the 301 spey blade. Not a thread. Not a finger. It looks as if it were a problem, but functionally it is not.

Is this is a common occurrence with the tip being exposed? Is there a reason why Buck hasn't done anything to fix it or maybe Buck doesn't see it as a problem and just part of the knife. This no longer has me wanting this knife but now heading in the GEC direction for a stockman. I already have an Old Timer that I'm happy with but looking to add another stockman.

Some years ago on the Buck Forum, I had a conversation with CJ himself about this. I pointed out that the issue is caused by the orientation of the covers, not the orientation of the blades per se. It's due to the serpentine shape of the frame. In order to fix it, they would have to swap the blades end for end. CJ even talked to his engineers about it. But they reached the same conclusion that I had. To change it, they would have to completely re-tool. VERY expensive. They cannot address it economically until the current tooling wears out and they have to re-tool anyways. Because it's a minor cosmetic issue, rather than something that causes functional problems, we all just go with it.

They should have left the blade configuration alone so the 301 wouldn't have this issue.

Read my comment above. It isn't the blade configuration.
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I carried a Camillus made 303 for years. I've carried new model 303's and 301's for a few years now. I much prefer the new design to the old. It just works better.

 

[csisland]

I just finished watching a Buck 301 review along side a Buck 371 made in China. There are noticeable differences with the blades themselves with the better quality on the 301. What I find interesting is the made in China 371 spey blade tip sitting nicely below the liner, and the 301 spey, as we have been looking at is well above the liner. Guess if you really want the 301 as a heavy worker, you just have to let the spey sit where it wants otherwise go with the 303.

 

[PocketKnifeJimmy]

Their styles seem so different, that it's hard to compare them. Case has more back in the day history, Buck has good history, but does not go back anywhere near Case'. The Buck 110 is a sheath folder that is an iconic American knife. As nice as the basic look of a Buck is, the pretty Case' are just hard to ignore. I believe I likely have about as many Case knives as Buck knives...and can honestly say that a "made in America pride thing" is a major reason for my owning both. If I had to choose... I would choose the Buck for fixed blades and their large sheath folders (like 110 & 112)... but would choose Case for pocket knives.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Don't know if mine was driving me insane (yet). But, after commenting about it earlier, it occurred to me I'd just picked up a couple of 3"x21" 120-grit zirconia alumina belts at Sears the other day. And just yesterday, I'd cut & glued one of those belts to a 3" x 24" basswood plank I had laying around, in the pursuit of experimenting with it as a very aggressive sandpaper-sharpening rig. The light bulb went on in my head, and I decided the first 'experiment' would be grinding down the spine of my 301's spey blade, in the portion between the nail nick and the tip. My spey blade is now a nicely-pointy spear, and the tip is neatly flush just below the liner. I'm happy now; crisis averted.

I'll see about posting a pic or two tomorrow. (Edit: see below)


David

Here are some pics of my 301's modified spey (to a spear):



David

 

[Primble]

I guess I might bite today. Here are a few pictures, as the original poster requested.

I don't have any stories that I want to tell, but, I have only had Case traditionals - no Bucks.

The ones which I used every day were very rugged and great cutters - and they still appeal to me more.

I have had and used pocket knives for over fifty years. I hope that qualifies me to give my opinion.

Different strokes for different folks!

Case XX 6308 Whittler, ten dots, circa 1970:

 

[cards94]

I like Case but you just don't know what you're going to get when you order blindly online. Todays Case is a lot different than yesterdays. I wish they were producing the same knives as they did years ago but they are so inconsistent today that I would only buy a Case in person. Even then, the colors don't seem to be as rich and the finishing touches are more a miss than a hit.

 

[cards94]

Heck I just went searching for a Case 6308 Whittler ten dots and saw a couple of beauties in mint unused condition, pre-1970 for $75-$80. I would much rather have one of those than anything today from Case but just need to pay a little more.

 

[MercyfulfateXX]

I guess I might bite today. Here are a few pictures, as the original poster requested.

I don't have any stories that I want to tell, but, I have only had Case traditionals - no Bucks.

The ones which I used every day were very rugged and great cutters - and they still appeal to me more.

I have had and used pocket knives for over fifty years. I hope that qualifies me to give my opinion.

Different strokes for different folks!

Case XX 6308 Whittler, ten dots, circa 1970:

Very nice. ill take it.










sorry,wrong thread.

 

[James Y]

Here are some pics of my 301's modified spey (to a spear):

David

Nice...it looks perfect, in fact. I've long felt that the 301 would be better served with a spear point in place of the spey blade. Seems more practical and versatile to me, especially since relatively few spey blades will ever be used for that purpose. I've never really cared much for the way Buck fashions their spey blades (in-house).

Jim

 

[shecky]

I like Buck's aesthetics a bit more. No appreciable difference in stainless quality. I do like CV a lot. I've noticed varying quality in both brands. Buck's Chinese slip joints were quite good, better f&f and consistency than US versions, IMO. The earlier ones I have use good steel, though it's always been hard to nail down exactly what kind of steel was used for that line, as Buck was never quite consistent in descriptions. I kind of wish Buck would do a few more patterns that are unique variations, the way the do with the current ones.

 

[cards94]

Buck's Chinese slip joints

The day I buy a Buck made in China is the day I give away all of my knives. It'll never happen.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Nice...it looks perfect, in fact. I've long felt that the 301 would be better served with a spear point in place of the spey blade. Seems more practical and versatile to me, especially since relatively few spey blades will ever be used for that purpose. I've never really cared much for the way Buck fashions their spey blades (in-house).

Jim

Yeah, the factory spey on this one was rather blunt at the tip (more so, including the thick spine). That's likely the one thing that minimizes any chance of it snagging anything in-pocket. The spine is abrubtly down-turned at the tip, so there was really no chance of it actually poking anything with the blade closed, even sitting above the liner.

Thanks for the very nice compliment; it actually went much better than I anticipated, and faster. When I bought the knife, I'd traced the outline of the spey on a piece of paper, in anticipation of trimming down the tip/spine on it. But, I'd put off doing it for a while, until I had a clear plan for getting it done. Glad I waited.

BTW, in the 4th pic I posted, the rub mark can be clearly seen underneath the nail nick of the modified spey blade, for those still curious about that. I'd previously mentioned it had rubbed on the inward side, against the sheepsfoot; but it actually rubs against the steel liner at the outward side. Little room for error to either side of any one blade, in this layout. The harsh exposure under the camera's flash makes the rub mark more obvious; otherwise, under normal light by naked eye, it doesn't really stand out, and is somewhat concealed in the 'as ground' finish.


David

 

[glsj1011]

I like and own a few from both brands. I tend to go for Buck lock backs (mainly the 500 series) and Case cv slipjoints.

 

[sunandsteel]

Yeah, the factory spey on this one was rather blunt at the tip (more so, including the thick spine). That's likely the one thing that minimizes any chance of it snagging anything in-pocket. The spine is abrubtly down-turned at the tip, so there was really no chance of it actually poking anything with the blade closed, even sitting above the liner.

Thanks for the very nice compliment; it actually went much better than I anticipated, and faster. When I bought the knife, I'd traced the outline of the spey on a piece of paper, in anticipation of trimming down the tip/spine on it. But, I'd put off doing it for a while, until I had a clear plan for getting it done. Glad I waited.

BTW, in the 4th pic I posted, the rub mark can be clearly seen underneath the nail nick of the modified spey blade, for those still curious about that. I'd previously mentioned it had rubbed on the inward side, against the sheepsfoot; but it actually rubs against the steel liner at the outward side. Little room for error to either side of any one blade, in this layout. The harsh exposure under the camera's flash makes the rub mark more obvious; otherwise, under normal light by naked eye, it doesn't really stand out, and is somewhat concealed in the 'as ground' finish.


David

What kind of sander did you use? Can you one use a belt sander on the spey blade?
I'm thinking about picking one up and customizing it like yours. Maybe this knife was made to customize.

 

[300Bucks]

I guess its just like cars, you get what you seem to like. I was given a Case and I traded it off. Like we use to say, "It's just a thing."

300Bucks

PS I do know some of you Case guys take good photos.

 

[csisland]

I guess its just like cars, you get what you seem to like. I was given a Case and I traded it off. Like we use to say, "It's just a thing."

300Bucks

300, do you own any current Buck 301's? If so, did you do anything to the spey blade or left it the way it is?

 

[csisland]

I rest my case.

 

[smokinbasser]

I collect Case, Kershaw, Queen knives and advertising knives but I have never owned a Buck knife. I had one J. Primble stockman before I "joined" the military and they took all knives before basic training and never gave them back

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

What kind of sander did you use? Can you one use a belt sander on the spey blade?
I'm thinking about picking one up and customizing it like yours. Maybe this knife was made to customize.

I used the 'manual' type of sander.

The above meaning, I used a 3"x21" sanding belt (120-grit zirconia alumina; Sears brand), cut and glued to a board and used more or less like a file. Just laid the board across my lap while watching TV, and dragged the spine of the blade along it's length. To add some control and leverage in handling the blade, I wedged the blade's cutting edge into the side of a wine cork, which provided a firm, steady and comfortable place to 'press' with my index finger (beats trying to press into the cutting edge of the blade, or into the lower side of the tang with a bare finger). Got the grunt-work done in about 45 minutes' time at relaxed pace, and then used a similar board with some medium-grit (320) wet/dry sandpaper to clean it up a bit, more closely matching the factory finish on the spine.

I'm sure a 'pro' would've done this with a powered belt grinder, but I don't have one; so, I'm not there yet.


David

 

[sunandsteel]

I used the 'manual' type of sander.

The above meaning, I used a 3"x21" sanding belt (120-grit zirconia alumina; Sears brand), cut and glued to a board and used more or less like a file. Just layed the board across my lap while watching TV, and dragged the spine of the blade along it's length. To add some control and leverage in handling the blade, I wedged the blade's cutting edge into the side of a wine cork, which provided a firm, steady and comfortable place to 'press' with my index finger (beats trying to press into the cutting edge of the blade, or into the lower side of the tang with a bare finger). Got the grunt-work done in about 45 minutes' time at relaxed pace, and then used a similar board with some medium-grit wet/dry sandpaper to clean it up a bit, more closely matching the factory finish on the spine.

I'm sure a 'pro' would've done this with a powered belt grinder, but I don't have one; so, I'm not there yet.


David

Did you know you'd be sanding down the spey blade before you bought the knife?