Buck Vs Case

Today I was in a big box sporting goods store. Initially I wanted a Case Sodbuster. I couldn't find one so I grabbed a 301 in a blister pack off the shelf. I examined the knife and passed on it as it had multiple visible gaps in the back joints. I have no idea if this was the norm as it was the last 301 left on the wall display, and the surrounding knives were basically untouched. The fact that this was a primary seller among the other knives was not lost on me, and maybe that 301 was left because it was a visible dud. Anyway, I grabbed a SAK ''Soldier'' instead. From what I saw the blades on the 301 are quite robust and the steel is better than that of the Chinese 371? I believe. Other than the sloppy fit and finnish on this particular knife, I like what I saw and will go back in the future and grab one that is assembled with tighter tolerances.
 
Did you know you'd be sanding down the spey blade before you bought the knife?

No, but I don't think I'd had it in my hands for more than a day or so, before deciding I'd do it eventually. I'd previously seen comments about it on the forum, with pics of the high-set spey blade's tip, so it's not like I wasn't aware it would be this way. I wasn't initially too concerned about it, but after looking at it up close, I knew what I wanted to do. I have an older Case Electrician's pattern (12031L) knife which had an extremely rounded tip on the spear blade, and I used similar methods on stones to re-shape the tip on that one. That made it a bit easier to figure out what to do with this one.


David
 
Have a couple of Case trappers that I use, like them. Have a Buck 110 that has seen hard use as a Forest Ranger knife. Held up great, a little hard to sharpen since it is early 80's model. Either knife will do what you need done.
 
Csisland and All,

Production knives are engineered to meet a factory designed standard. An individual owner can on occasions 'tweak' a production knife. I have tweaked some 300s and will likely again. I have slightly bent blades so they don't touch, but do this very, very carefully and slowly. If you break one your warranty is void. You must really take care not to bend your blade hindge pins while attempting this. Usually, most people recommend the average guy not attempt this. So I will say don't also. I also have shortened the toe of the tang. The toe keeps the sharp edge from hitting the spring when it is closed, BUT I like it to be as low as is possible so all the blades spines are the same level. Again I caution you to go very, very slowly if you try this. If you file to much, you can't put it back and you will be seeing a constant flat spot in your edge. Try this on a $5 knife first. Look as some of the photos of the custom knives in this forum and you will see level blade tops.

I actually would like Buck to build a two blade 303 and 301 size knife with a clip and long sheepsfoot (actually I would want a warcliff). I seldom, if at all, ever use a spey blade. 300
 
I actually would like Buck to build a two blade 303 and 301 size knife with a clip and long sheepsfoot (actually I would want a warcliff). I seldom, if at all, ever use a spey blade. 300

Has there been any request to Buck for something like this? One can only hope that they produce something like this.
 
Sun, I had a 301 and two 303s converted. I sent one into Buck as a pass around knife. Never heard a word back. But I have not given up and when I go to the Blade Show in Atlanta I always mention it at the Buck booth. If anyone goes to a knife show and you see a Buck booth it will not hurt to stop and look things over and then mentioned you would really like to see a two blade folder of the right size. 300
 
I guess I can do my part by just sending Buck an email since there are no knife shows in my area coming up. What I'm thinking about doing though is buying a 301, and the way Obsessed with Edges modified his spey into a drop point, I'm thinking try my luck at modifying the spey into a small wharncliff.
 
Buck is not alone in having stockman blades sit proud when folded. I've found it in Case, Queen and different brands made by Queen. My dad's Schrade Old Timer that I found recently after it being lost for almost 50 years had a severely high sheepsfoot blade. Apparently it never was a concern to my dad. I tend to be a little overly cautious, I guess. I left the Old Timer alone since it's not a user but I have taken a Dremel to the tang of several knives with high sitting blades. As long as you're cautious and go slow, it makes quick work of lowering the blades nicely.
 
Buck is not alone in having stockman blades sit proud when folded. I've found it in Case, Queen and different brands made by Queen. My dad's Schrade Old Timer that I found recently after it being lost for almost 50 years had a severely high sheepsfoot blade. Apparently it never was a concern to my dad. I tend to be a little overly cautious, I guess. I left the Old Timer alone since it's not a user but I have taken a Dremel to the tang of several knives with high sitting blades. As long as you're cautious and go slow, it makes quick work of lowering the blades nicely.

Do you have a picture of that Old Timer or any of the other knives you mentioned?
 
Tell it like it is....I don't have any Case knives to photo. But this is the point of discussion for these. I am not a knife designer or engineer but if you look at this one thing has to happen, you have to open the blade, the toe of the tangs hold up the blades enough so the nail nic can be accessed without changing the design of the scales. I along with others have never had a spey cut or snag in a pocket. I would guess as one sharpens his blades over the years a small amount of tang toe angle would need to be filed off to move the blades down in the blade well. Since I have have a dozen EDCs I have yet to sharpen a blade down like you see in some old folders. I carefully 'tweak' both secondaries down a careful small amount, but still leave enough nic to slip my nail into the very top of the nic. I have also rounded the sheepsfoot blade arch a little so it does not stand so proud.

Yes, you should be able to buy a knife that meets your standards without working on it yourself. But, most of my knives are extras I picked up in my Buck collection so I am dealing with what I have. It also makes me happy to accomplish some customizations in my carry knives. It makes them my own and I usually have a small amount of nail on my right thumb.
300

 
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I prefer the look and finish of Case over Buck personally.
 
you could always make the statement that
case = jack knives
bucks = lock backs and fixed blades

since case makes fixed blades and lock backs but is not known for them
and buck doesnt seem to make any jack knives anymore, or at least in the US

I mean, really they only place they seem to complete with each other is stockmans :p
 
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I prefer the look and finish of Case over Buck personally.

If you're lucky enough to get a keeper. Not all Case's are created equal.:p You can say that for all knives but I've been dealt many duds or the scales colors were way off from Case, but in the end, after a few trips to the post office and a quick chat on the phone with whatever dealer I was buying from, I've been satisfied with Case.
 
I have a few case knives and I really like them. I am awaiting the arrival of my first buck, a 303 in the classic black scales. I am unable to make any sort of comparison but I have really enjoyed reading this thread. Lots of fascinating opinions and information to mull over.

Thanks to all you guys and gals who have contributed so far :)
 
It seems to me that a lot of people pick Case over Buck.. It may be because of functionality, looks or tradition. Why is it that you purchased or favour one from the other? They are both great companies with a long history. Pictures and stories of why you have loyalty to one or the other are very welcomed!

Is the question about slip joint pocket knives, folding hunting knives or fixed blade hunting knives?

In terms of folding hunting knives, Buck all the way. The 110 defined the category really.

In terms of fixed blades and slip joints, I think it's a choice between tradition (Case) and iconic mass production success (Buck), particularly with the saw cut Derlin 300s and the black phenolic fixed blades.

Longer answer and more emotional or subjective....

IMO, the thing about very traditional knives is they all look mostly the same, which isn't surprising if they use traditional patterns, traditional joinery and traditional patterns. Take a GEC, Case, Queen, Canal Street, (old) Schrade-Walden stockman and put them side by each on a shelf on the other side of the room and I doubt if I could pick one from the other. The same is true of leather stacked fixed blades. And this is the thing with Case.

Now, put a black saw cut Derlin Buck 301 in the group or put a black phenolic handled Buck 119 in the mix of fixed blades, and there's no dispute. Those knives are made by Buck.

IMO, both Buck and Schrade started pushing the envelope of tradition in 60s and 70s. Buck came out with their distinctive black phenolic handles and Schrade introduced their saw cut Derlin Old Timers. Both companies were pursuing mass production and larger numbers. And while Schrade paid homage to Buck with their LB-7s, Buck went to Schrade to outsource the 301s. Schrade didn't survive as we know it but when I look at a saw cut Buck 300, I see the echos of Schrade combined with the distinctive black and silver color motif of the iconic Buck 119. IMO, the black Buck 300s are a very unique signature combination. Case would never produce that knife.

My first grown knife was a Buck 110. Before that I had several Ulster BSA knives (and still do). So, I have a soft spot in my heart for mass production knives.

With all this said, you might think I like all things Buck. I like the iconic Bucks but beyond this, they seem a bit adrift. Their slip joints seem to be a second thought for them. The cascades of other scale and bolster color combinations leave me cold. They are neither traditional nor iconic Buck. This will seem harsher than I mean it to be, but really the iconic Bucks are products of the 60s and 70s and they have that sort of look to them. They are modern traditionals. The new Buck slip joints look like muscle cars of the 80s, trying sadly to capture that same magic and missing the mark.
 
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