Bucks Lightweight Series Strength

Boxer .45 said:
I was thinking of getting my father a regular 110 or 113l2, possibly a Drop Point, maybe a Clip, haven't decided. But it occured to me he might like a LT or one of the slim models in micarta more.

He own a construction and roofing business. He often carries a folding utility utility knife with a hook blade on his pocket. A lot of times its accompanied by a straight bladed one as well. I thought an actual knife might be more useful/handy day to day than the folding straight blade (utility) knife?

I have done construction myself for 30 years. My last folder for the job was a Tenacious and it held up, except the edge would get dull faster than I wanted but ig would sharpen up easy enough. Only reason I'm mentioning it is to say that I do have experience with folding knives on the job. I'm not asking silly questions. Just curious about possible pivot pin durability...expectations.

Thanks
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I grew up in the construction trade, my Dad owned a remodeling company and was flipping houses before they called it flipping. I worked for him from the time I was old enough to swing a hammer until I left for Basic Training and work some side jobs in construction during my LE career. While I have always carried a traditional pocket knife, on a construction site my knife of choice was a plain old Stanley Utility Knife, (the all metal kind where the blade slides out the front) that I still own and use frequently. Cutting sheet rock, linolium tile, carpet etc is tough on a knife. Utility blades just get replaced with a fresh blade when dull, some times several times a day. Why abuse a good pocket knife when you don't need to?
 
For heavy duty/ construction environments, I wouldn't carry any Lt or slim.
A good edc on a jobsite is a basic 112 or 110.
I have been carrying a carbon 112 for awhile at commercial and industrial construction sites. The knife is heavy duty, small and holds up well.
Tools with a proven history are what you want on a jobsite, assuming you actually use it and have calloused hands.
I leave the plastic handled tools for use off the clock.
 
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NMpops said:
I grew up in the construction trade, my Dad owned a remodeling company and was flipping houses before they called it flipping. I worked for him from the time I was old enough to swing a hammer until I left for Basic Training and work some side jobs in construction during my LE career. While I have always carried a traditional pocket knife, on a construction site my knife of choice was a plain old Stanley Utility Knife, (the all metal kind where the blade slides out the front) that I still own and use frequently. Cutting sheet rock, linolium tile, carpet etc is tough on a knife. Utility blades just get replaced with a fresh blade when dull, some times several times a day. Why abuse a good pocket knife when you don't need to?
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I've been doing construction since I was 11 year old. I am a subcontractor for myself and a foreman often for my dads company.
I wasn't suggesting replacing a utility knife, we still use those every day. But there are things that a regular knife can be used for every day as well. Cutting rope, pallet straps, opening boxes and packing material, sharpening carpenter pencils, etc. There is tons of times when you don't have your utility knife on you, because its in your apron in the tool box, on the roof or scaffold, while giving estimates or picking up materials or whatever where a knife is infinitely handy.

I have used a Tenacious and a few other knives for a work knife. They are nice to have. I have no interest in carrying a $200+ folder on the job and think its quite silly actually. I usually keep my nicer folder in the truck or on my dresser for when I'm not working.

While were talking about knives on the construction job, I've carried an ESSE 3 on the job inside the waistband for several years and it is handy as well. One hand draw, already open, easy to sharpen, etc.

I'm not talking about cutting shingles or sheetrock with my knife, but a pocketknife on the job is worth carrying in addition to a utility knife. I highly recommend taking one along and you'll see what I mean.
 
GPyro said:
For heavy duty/ construction environments, I wouldn't carry any Lt or slim.
A good edc on a jobsite is a basic 112 or 110.
I have been carrying a carbon 112 for awhile at commercial and industrial construction sites. The knife is heavy duty, small and holds up well.
Tools with a proven history are what you want on a jobsite, assuming you actually use it and have calloused hands.
I leave the plastic handled tools for use off the clock.
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I don't even know anybody without callouses. LoL

I offered him both a regular 112 drop point or the LT. If he gets used to carrying it and tears it up I'll give him the choice again. I admit I'd probably carry the standard myself if I could work right now.
 
It's easy to underestimate the durability of plastic, but unless you pound on it, the plastic will hold up for years. A friend of mine is turbo-abusive on knives and he still carries an old linerless Delica. It's duller than a campaign fundraiser and the tip is gone, but it still functions fine.

This is my daily work knife that s used rigorously, but never abused.

poxpyDZ.jpg
 
I picked up an LT 110 from Wally World awhile back. I really wanted to like it, but it just had too much blade play. I knew it was still safe, just disconcerting. I wound up giving it away. I would like to try a 112 LT. Anyone know if they are any better or worse?
 
jstrange said:
I picked up an LT 110 from Wally World awhile back. I really wanted to like it, but it just had too much blade play. I knew it was still safe, just disconcerting. I wound up giving it away. I would like to try a 112 LT. Anyone know if they are any better or worse?
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I have a 110 and 112 and both were great. They came from Amazon and CC was the seller. I'd order again in a second.
 
One of the ones I gave away went to a farmer with a dominant arm f-edup by west nile. It withstood his abuse fine. Easy to open was a plus and light weight was key for his bad hand. He took the tip off prying, but the knife body withstood the abuse. A big honkin heavy regular buck would have lost the tip too :) Just 'cause a knife is light and easy to use doesn't mean it is inferior to regular buck hunk of brass.
 
jstrange said:
I picked up an LT 110 from Wally World awhile back. I really wanted to like it, but it just had too much blade play. I knew it was still safe, just disconcerting. I wound up giving it away. I would like to try a 112 LT. Anyone know if they are any better or worse?
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Jstrange, I dug out all 6 of my different 110 LTs and one 112 LT and checked them for play. All of them have the same amount of vertical play - which is a tad excessive in my opinion. In a thread from a couple years ago when the LTs first came out, J Hubbard explained it this way: "The plastic bodies do not hold as tight of a tolerance, and since when we rivet them not press them, there is a tolerance between the size of the rivet shank and the hole it goes into. If you feel it is excessive, we will take care of it. This goes for up/down or side to side."

I does make you wonder, however, why the the 110 and 112 slim selects all lock up tight with zero play, despite having the same rivet design as the LT?
 
plb said:
Jstrange, I dug out all 6 of my different 110 LTs and one 112 LT and checked them for play. All of them have the same amount of vertical play - which is a tad excessive in my opinion. In a thread from a couple years ago when the LTs first came out, J Hubbard explained it this way: "The plastic bodies do not hold as tight of a tolerance, and since when we rivet them not press them, there is a tolerance between the size of the rivet shank and the hole it goes into. If you feel it is excessive, we will take care of it. This goes for up/down or side to side."

I does make you wonder, however, why the the 110 and 112 slim selects all lock up tight with zero play, despite having the same rivet design as the LT?
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Yeah, just not up to par IMO. I’d pay more for a better one. They need to spend a little more time with their lockbacks to try and eliminate most of the up and down play. I also got an aluminum framed lockback recently that had excessive up and down play. I’ve even seen it on regular 110’s.
 
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jstrange said:
Yeah, just not up to par IMO. I’d pay more for a better one. They need to spend a little more time with their lockbacks to try and eliminate most of the up and down play. I also got an aluminum framed lockback recently that had excessive up and down play. I’ve even seen it on regular 110’s.
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Order one not from Walmart. Try Amazon or Copper and Clad. If you don't like it get a refund.
The 112 had a slight amount of play but not much, and I thought it was a good solid knife. I let my dad choose between 110 and 112 LT and he chose the 112. I wouldn't have given it to him had I thought it was much.
I know I'm only one sample. And maybe your experience is too. Try another one and see what you think?

My understanding was Walmart gets bucks cheaper knives, I'd imagine that means f&f to some degree too, not sure. I haven't bought a knife at Walmart in years.
If you do you could ask to see several examples and choose from them. But I'd recommend ordering instead like I said.
 
Over the years, and Im old, I have bought many knives from Walmart and at different times the same knives from other sellers, including the Buck store.
Never have I ever seen a bit of difference in any of the knives.
Packaging varies from different sellers for the same knife at times.
 
Pack Rat said:
Over the years, and Im old, I have bought many knives from Walmart and at different times the same knives from other sellers, including the Buck store.
Never have I ever seen a bit of difference in any of the knives.
Packaging varies from different sellers for the same knife at times.
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Somewhere theres an interview where one of the head guys at Buck talks about Walmart wanting them to keep their "price point as low as possible", which is one of the reasons Buck has some China made knives. I imagine that translates into into quality and f&f as well.

Regardless, most dealers aren't big conglomerates like Walmart, and I can ask them to check F&F and function before shipment, and if its not to my expectations I can make a call to the dealer that wants my business as opposed to driving and standing in line at a store to exchange or get a refund that could care less if I'm happy or not.
 
This lite knife and thin handles are not a recent offering. Buck made some great thin, light knives in 1981 with the Classic series. They are more
for dress with stamped engraved handles. I carry one but more for light use. My Workman light I use for more heavy, utility cutting. I've decided I prefer a knife with wider handles for heavy use. It has 425m steel which is a plus. My screwed together frame 110 is my favorite and
I've been carrying it for a year and a half since I got it. It is light and grippy with micarta handles and has the width to allow for a good push cut. I use a knife daily for all sorts of cutting chores and it has to stand up to use. Not abuse. DM
 
Boxer .45 said:
Order one not from Walmart. Try Amazon or Copper and Clad. If you don't like it get a refund.
The 112 had a slight amount of play but not much, and I thought it was a good solid knife. I let my dad choose between 110 and 112 LT and he chose the 112. I wouldn't have given it to him had I thought it was much.
I know I'm only one sample. And maybe your experience is too. Try another one and see what you think?

My understanding was Walmart gets bucks cheaper knives, I'd imagine that means f&f to some degree too, not sure. I haven't bought a knife at Walmart in years.
If you do you could ask to see several examples and choose from them. But I'd recommend ordering instead like I said.
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other than walmart exclusives, they get same knives off the same lines as every other Buck dealer. this has been verified here in past threads by Buck. there isnt a separate line with cheaper f&f for walmart. their lower price point comes from massive volume.
 
Boxer .45 said:
Order one not from Walmart. Try Amazon or Copper and Clad. If you don't like it get a refund.
The 112 had a slight amount of play but not much, and I thought it was a good solid knife. I let my dad choose between 110 and 112 LT and he chose the 112. I wouldn't have given it to him had I thought it was much.
I know I'm only one sample. And maybe your experience is too. Try another one and see what you think?

My understanding was Walmart gets bucks cheaper knives, I'd imagine that means f&f to some degree too, not sure. I haven't bought a knife at Walmart in years.
If you do you could ask to see several examples and choose from them. But I'd recommend ordering instead like I said.
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Big misconception. Walmart doesn't get 2nd rate product from Buck. Never has been the case. For every mention of this there's multiple confirmations that show otherwise. Kinda like a rumor mill.

I have a couple from Walmart. Exact same product. For awhile you could get a 110 with a leather sheath for right around 30.00. that was the best deal around for quite some time. If there is a price difference back then it was due to Volume purchasing not 2nd rate product. There is 4692 Walmart's across the US. buck would have to make an ass load of blem knives to fill an order for that many locations. Regular production knives.
 
Makael said:
Big misconception. Walmart doesn't get 2nd rate product from Buck. Never has been the case. For every mention of this there's multiple confirmations that show otherwise. Kinda like a rumor mill.

I have a couple from Walmart. Exact same product. For awhile you could get a 110 with a leather sheath for right around 30.00. that was the best deal around for quite some time. If there is a price difference back then it was due to Volume purchasing not 2nd rate product. There is 4692 Walmart's across the US. buck would have to make an ass load of blem knives to fill an order for that many locations. Regular production knives.
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I wasn't trying to start a rumor, I was saying that was my understanding. In the interview I mentioned he saud they want Buck to neet price points and thats why they make some knives in china. "Its hard for us to meet that".

I don't buy gear from Walmart either way though. Except fishing gear on rare occasion.
 
GPyro said:
Lt vs slim blade play.
One is plastic other is micarta or g10.
Big difference.

"i imagine" doesn't qualify as fact.
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think he means the slim selects, that are plastic/nylon glass, etc. ill let him clarify though on his own. those do seem to be rock solid for the most part. least mine are. first versions and more recent ones seem to be rock solid.

although I have some more recent made lts that are rock solid. the earlier ones and first version I own have noticeable play. not enough to make it unsafe, but for people who cant stand it....It'd drive them nuts.;)
 
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