Build a linerlock

Gareth, Thank you for the tutorial. It makes one think we may make fewer mistakes making our first folder. Could you explain how much is taken off the lock to make it more flexible? Is it taken off the out side of the lock? Thanks for your time. Jess
 
Hey Jess - most welcome mate.

In this case I used 060 titanium so it's actually already thin enough to be flexible. The reason I tapered the lock (from the outside - you're correct there) was to skirt the clearance issue:

Clearance.png


In the pic you can see the problem and how different makers get around it. Basically the problem is that because the ball protrudes into the cavity that the blade will close into, it needs to be able to move out of the way. If it didn't the blade would jam after about 1/5 of the closing arc.

Image A shows a pocket that's been cut into the handle material to allow the lock to travel out of the way. Great way of doing it but you need access to a mill.
Image B shows basically what I did in this tutorial. By tapering the lock it gives it just enough space to allow the blade to move - if you have a grinder you can do this.
Image C shows a framelock - no handle material to block the travel of the lock so nothing extra needed -easy peasy!

If you do use thicker titanium and need to cut a softening area, the jury's out on whether it's better inside or out. I cut from the outside on my framelocks so that it won't form a blade-like section on the handle where the chamfer and cutout meet.
 
Spent the day polishing everything up, slow, boring work :) Here's the blade before the etch. The hollow is satin (1000 grit) and the flats are mirror polished.

DSC06038.jpg


I'll finish her up in the morning :)
 
Here's how I etch my blades:

Firstly, these are some nasty chemicals so proceed with caution, good ventilation is always a must and keep your chemicals in tightly stoppered containers, well labelled and out of general reach. Ferric Chloride will lose effectiveness if exposed to light over time, I keep mine in a brown chemist bottle. Caustic soda I mix up as needed.

Last night I sprayed the blade with Positiv20. It's a photo-reactive spray-paint and dries dark green. Sorry about the photo - taken in a dark room with minimal light - photo-reactive remember :)
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I then take one of my negatives and put a thin strip of tape along one edge:
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I stick it in position, the tape helps hold it in place while I clamp it down with sharpened clothes pegs:
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Once I'm happy with the placement I expose it to direct sunlight for 15-20 seconds. Make sure there are no shadows on the logo area and keep your hands still. 15-20 seconds is plenty, too much more and you'll "burn" the Positiv20.
After exposing it to sunlight the exposed paint turns dark blue and can be washed away with a weak caustic soda solution. I pour a couple drops onto the blade and after a couple seconds tha logo starts darkening and popping out of the paint. I then flush the blade in fast running water to remove the softened paint. Here's the result:
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The logo should be sharp and shiny with no paint left inside of it. If you're unsure, re-apply caustic soda for a couple more seconds. I draw a"moat" around the logo with sharpie, it'll stop the acid running out of the area you want it in :)

I then put a couple drops of ferric chloride onto the area I want to etch. It's pretty viscous (as in the "thickness" of the liquid) so it forms a pretty stable droplet. You only need to cover the area to be etched but overlap the logo just a bit.
DSC06068.jpg

I count to 200 then flush the blade and check the etch. It'll etch better in warmer weather, I do a couple etches in winter. If necessary, re-etch NOW - once you remove the Positiv20 it'd be damn near impossible to get the logo back in the same position, so be sure before you move on.

Once you're happy the logo is nicely etched you can wipe the blade down with acetone to remove the Positiv20 - always a nerve-wracking time - I hate botched etches.
This one came out a beaut though - deep and dark - very chuffed:
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Haha - Thanks MDQBox - not quite but I'll claim it :D

Here we go - final product :)
I went with a fine blast on the bolsters. I wanted it to be matte to bring out the polished micarta but not make it too "tactical" looking, hope you like it!

Open
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Closed - nice and smooth, should ride nicely in the pocket.
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Ultra slim profile
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Mirrored liners contrast nicely with the bolsters, the fine jimping gives it a refined look
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To everyone who chimed in - thanks very much for the kind words - it was nice to know you were watching. I enjoyed putting this together immensely, hope it helps!
Gazza
 
Quick video of the knife:

[video=youtube;D8C-_dCD6vE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8C-_dCD6vE&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
Just a wonderful write up and a beautiful knife!

I am most intrigued by your solution for a flipper and keeping the sterile clean lines of the knife, very well executed! That is a knife I would carry every day, just wonderful work.


-Xander
 
Gotta be one of the best tutorials I've ever seen! I've made lots of linerlocks and I certainly learned a few things from your fine tutorial that will make them better. Many thanks!
Phil
 
That IS!! the best tutorial/ WIP I have ever seen, and the opening mechanism is awesome. Thanks for taking the time..truly wonderful Sir.
 
That is very nice. I loved the tutorial, makes me want to try my own!
 
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