Build the ultimate fixed blade EDC

I really like sheepsfoot blades for EDC but I think a lot of people don't care for the look, which I understand completely. I also use my EDC's primarily in an office, lab, or production environment and tape, paper, cardboard, and plastic are my usual targets, nothing too thick.

Sheeps
2.75" cutting edge
4.5" handle
2.5mm blade thickness
8-10mm handle thickness (slim in pocket feel, I like clip sheaths for EDC fixed blades)
Rounded spine from tip to butt, feels more natural in use.
Unsure on steel but something that takes a nice polish
I like a choil-like contour for the front finger and a rear swell on the rear since pull cutting is most of my cutting.

I guess this is roungly a fixed spyderco native with a sheepsfoot blade, probably a reason it's one of my most loved folders along with a modified sheepsfoot mini-grip.

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Close-ish from hardedge knives with sheath from a different leather worker off BF.
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This is a camp/bush knife I worked with a maker to design and while the lines of the handle aren't stellar the in-hand feel is pretty great. It's really comfortable drilling with the tip and the ring locks the fore-finger and thumb for a solid grip for driving into wood or using a loose grip for minor chopping. Should've added a bit of thickness to the handle, in retrospect, but the concept was well executed and it works well with gloves.
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gazz98 said:
I can't EDC a fixed blade here in MI but I'll play along with my ultimate EDC fixed blade.
Click to expand...

Yes you can.

http://www.knifeup.com/michigan-knife-laws/

From conclusion (NOT legal advice), "Michigan’s laws are not that confusing, it just requires some investigation and analysis. In Michigan, you can own any knife you want as long as it is not an automatic knife. You can also open carry any knife you want. The only limits to concealed carry is that you must not use the knife to harm others and that you can not carry a stabbing knife like a dirk or stiletto."

Local statutes may limit it however.

http://handgunlaw.us/documents/USKnife.pdf

Also, auto knives are now allowed by the state, as of last fall sometime, but many local laws forbid them, especially in the Metro-Detroit area. Just don't use it for self-defense or with the intent for self-defense because then it's considered a deadly weapon and not a tool. The interpretation of intent is a big part of the law and that can vary some from officer to officer.
 
Thanks bikerector. I won't open carry a fixed blade. I prefer a folding blade. The lines that bother me in that link (I've seen it before) is ...

  • It is legal to carry a hunting knife concealed.
  • It is illegal to conceal carry dirks, stilettos, daggers, and other stabbing items.
I have my CPL so that is my self defense weapon. I'd rather not deal with the fixed blade concealed carry implications. I don't want to have to argue about whether my concealed fixed blade is a "hunting" knife.

Sorry to get off topic.
 
I think the bradford 3.5 or 4 in 3v comes pretty close, heck, or even a completely standard kephart that is small enough to be legal... does it need to be really complex?
 
Ok everyone seems to be roughly on the same page. 3in sheapsfoot blade and 4-4.5 in handle, rounded spine, and sharpening notch. G10 , carbon fiber or mircata handle material.
Anything from 1075 to 20cv has been mentioned for blade materials. Im gonna use stainless. Ive been using high carbon (80crv2) excellent steel, tough as nails, stupid easy to heat treat. Im just tired of fighting rust here in Florida.
Dirc yeah thats an extremely popular fixed blade and i really like it.
No it doesn't have to be complex. More simple the better.
 
ok, this is the ultimate fixed blade edc - as a measure of value for $ spent - easily

a condor kephart from http://www.baryonyxknife.com/cokebl.html
for $23 you can get a kephart in 1075 steel (bonus! special grade is free), and it will force you to make your own perfect handle...

I would use desert ironwood, or the other ironwood, which I have growing on my property - hophornbeam - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ostrya_virginiana

or you could spend 10x-20x as much from a high end maker, and likely end up with an unintentional safe queen :p
 
valknut said:
...
Anything from 1075 to 20cv has been mentioned for blade materials. Im gonna use stainless. Ive been using high carbon (80crv2) excellent steel, tough as nails, stupid easy to heat treat. Im just tired of fighting rust here in Florida.
Dirc yeah thats an extremely popular fixed blade and i really like it.
No it doesn't have to be complex. More simple the better.
Click to expand...

FYI, 80crv2 is not stainless, not even close ;) it only uses like half a percent of chrome ...

Great steel if you don't need stainless,

if you need tough stainless - 14c28n can't be beat for value... if you can spend more, then look at lc200n
(now you're in the Nitrogen realm, all your common sense knowledge of heat treatments may be off... I'm still trying to learn more about it myself)
 
dirc said:
FYI, 80crv2 is not stainless, not even close ;) it only uses like half a percent of chrome ...

Great steel if you don't need stainless,

if you need tough stainless - 14c28n can't be beat for value... if you can spend more, then look at lc200n
Click to expand...

I know i was trying to say im gonna use stainless cause im tired of fighting rust with 80crv2. Its a great steel just not stainless lol
 
I like that drawing a lot... the low cost option stainless would be 14c28n - then ironwood handles (my preference... without epoxy or another sealant, my theory is, if I wanted to grip plastic then I should just use g10)... I'd use just pure tung oil, and be sure to add a bit every year, nothing can beat that type of natural wood handle feel
 
dirc said:
I like that drawing a lot... the low cost option stainless would be 14c28n - then ironwood handles (my preference... without epoxy or another sealant, my theory is, if I wanted to grip plastic then I should just use g10)... I'd use just pure tung oil, and be sure to add a bit every year, nothing can beat that type of natural wood handle feel
Click to expand...

Makes sense i like using dannish oil for non stabilized woods like desert ironwood. Thanks for the input man
 
yeah, dannish oil is not consistent unless you know and like a specific brand... I'm not really a fan of the "polymerized linseed oil" form... other dannish oil is actually tung oil :)
 
20cv is pretty awesome stainless...a more readily available and cheaper version of m390. would make a great smaller edc imo. You might want to consider a bit more of a stright edge coming out of the ricasso area and then a slight curve towards the tip. the sharpening coil is usually placed right where the bevels transition from thick to thin and not before.
 
Thanks spike. I planned on using .187 with some thin liners.
Tim, i probably will i have some AEBL that im gonna use then order some 20cv
 
Sounds good! Look at the lionsteel m1, I think they have executed the transition from fingerguard to choil to blade to belly perfectly. Love the belly and tip shape on your drawing
 
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