Busse as a carry weapon?

Urban Grudge

IWB sheath made by me.
 
choiless BOSS jack series, as far as standard usable knives go. The CABS is short and it has a ton of belly without a lot of flat edge or pointy tip. It's nice because it has a thin edge, but it's difficult for me to advise on it over a choiless BOSS jack (LE or otherwise).
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it is the largest knife I'd be willing to carry in town if I want to have any sense of concealment or not drawing attention to it.
The 1311 would be great but it's to big to carry in town. The choiless Tank Buster is another alternative to the BOSS jack in the same length, but it's so bulky with such a thick edge that I don't feel like enough is gained to warrant it. Because the handle is so much larger it keeps the balance the same, if not a little more neutral than the BOSS jack and it has a much larger, and therefor noticable, footprint on your belt.
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The war boar is a nice concept but it's thick behind the edge the blade is offset to the handle at a very high angle. If your well trained in the use of a karambit it might be up your alley, but it's going to be hard to explain if your on the wrong end of the cops interrogation. It is hard to argue for it being a 'utility' knife.
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As far as I'm concerned there aren't any other viable options from the busse line up that I'd be willing to carry for potential weapons use. I am adamantly against choils in any knife designed as a 'fighter' because it's a safety risk on something that should be as near to fail safe as possible. I've personally had choils hang up on bunched fabric, bunched plastic sheeting, netting, and paracord. No such thing should ever even be a potential in a fight. I'm not crazy in saying that choils hang up on things, not just because others have experienced it, Jerry himself has given an example:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...ic-10-Choil-or-No-Choil?p=9999681#post9999681

Jerry Busse said:

I, obviously, love choils. They make it much easier to sharpen all the way to the back of the edge and they allow for choking up further onto the blade. This in turn offers better blade control when doing finer whittling or up close cutting with your blade. So, in that way they make a large blade much more versatile for a variety of applications.

On the other hand, when I was making the video for the original SHBM and attempting to cut 12 pieces of free hanging 1" diameter hemp rope, the bundle was so wide and my aim was off by just enough, that the choil hung up on the last 1/4' inch of the bundle and I ended up ripping my shoulder completely out of the socket. Hurt like a mofo. . . On the upside, I had to drink for 3 months straight to get past the pain, so it did have its benefits!

In the end, there really is no definitive answer to which is better. It really just comes down to which is better for you and your intended application.

Let's Drink!

Jerry

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Whatever you have on you is going to be the best weapon because it's the only weapon, so get good with whatever you always carry regardless of what it is. But if your intent is to carry it primarily for potential weapons use there is no reason to throw risk into the equation.
 
CHOILS....in a big knife(7"+ blade length) the benefits outweigh the drawbacks for a non fighting knife. In a small knife 4" or less, I don't see the point of a choil.

A Choil has kept me from slicing my hand up as it provided an extra section for the hand to slide over before it slid onto the blade in a stabbing motion. The finger choil allows you to choke up on the blade and be able to do work right next to the edge of the blade, which in a non-choil knife you can't do as easily, in addition to making the balance of the blade for fine work much more neutral. Also aesthetically, I like the looks of a choil on a large knife. Besides, how could both Jerry Busse and Ron Hood be wrong ;) Again, talking big knives.
 
When I was a kid, I considered knives as weapons...that until I saw a knife fight. I have had the disgrace of seing knife fights 3 times in my life, and let me tell you brother...THERE ARE NO WINNERS IN KNIFE FIGHTS...just degrees of loosers...and by loosers I mean...loosing bodyparts or the habitility to use them.

Ask the guys in service who have being in Asia, Central or South America...they´ll tell you about it.

That being said, if you insist in such a risky enterprise GET A BIG ONE...AND MAKE SURE IS A FAST ONE.

GET THE ONLY FIGHTING BUSSES I´VE SEEN...THE SWORDS...WICH ONE YOU SAY?...THE LONGEST!!...but for crying out loud...get a handgun.

...I forgot... in case you are planning to use it in a trench...in that case get the Argone Assault....


Good luck...you´ll need it.
 
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Cobalt said:
Besides, how could both Jerry Busse and Ron Hood be wrong ;) Again, talking big knives.
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That's why I quote Jerry in the above, who threw out his shoulder using a SHBM when it snagged on hemp rope. That was due entirely to the choil, because that's what hung up on the rope. On any other task I'd say opinions differ and it depends on how it's used, on a fighting knife there shouldn't be dangers presented by a feature. If your likely to have your hand slip forward onto the blade you should have a more substantial guard. If you find the edge is too far away from your hand and want better tactile control by having it closer - make your guard slimmer, shorten the ricasso. If your choking up on a 9" knife to get better control of fine work against another human - chances are it's not actually a fight anymore.
 
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so, Bill Bagwell designed the fighting bowie. How many would love to see a Busse designed like that?
 
+1 have even gone as big as a batac, a pork shank is making the next tripin this exact set up.
Cobalt said:
a meaner or leaner meaner in a kydex belt sheath canted forward about 45 degrees, mounted reverse grip on weak side. you grab handle and draw forward and up so that knife comes out of sheath edge away from you and in your fist like if you are going to strike, punch forward. That is how I carry a small fixed blade, when I carry one.
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Local laws prevent me from carrying a firearm. I edc a skelly warden or swamp rat tail, but when walking the dog i want a little more, since one of the neighbors and her dog were mauled by a pit bull. Lately i've been carrying a skinny ash-1 or the clipped version of the same (they fit the same sheath as a bonus). In the summertime in shorts it's a clip point badger or a mean street.
 
IMO, the reality of knife defense is mostly one of fantasy. In a situation where you'd want to reach for your knife, even people who are well trained at drawing ASAP would be hard pressed to get it into the fight soon enough. Most self defense situations occur in such a way that you don't have time to employ a knife and if you did have the time..... likely you would have a hard time explaining why you employed the knife as you'd likely have time to hastily leave the scene, which is obviously going to usually be your BEST move.

To further illustrate my thoughts on this matter, here's a link to an article with 10 Lies about Knife Fighting......

http://www.nononsenseselfdefense.com/knifelies.html

In the scenario above - being attacked by a pit bull - your best move would be to simply grab the front paws and rip outwards like you're breaking a wishbone. This was taught to me by a fellow who raised wolves, this move should instantly kill and or incapacitate ANY canine you may encounter. If I remember correctly, it only takes about 8 pounds of force to break this structure so most anybody can use this with outstanding results. In most cases, dogs will jump at you to go for your arms OR throat which would be the most opportune moment to employ such defense. The most important thing however, is to see the attack coming and remaining calm so you can be relaxed enough to make the right action.
 
aaaa_cccc said:
IMO, the reality of knife defense is mostly one of fantasy. In a situation where you'd want to reach for your knife, even people who are well trained at drawing ASAP would be hard pressed to get it into the fight soon enough. Most self defense situations occur in such a way that you don't have time to employ a knife and if you did have the time..... likely you would have a hard time explaining why you employed the knife as you'd likely have time to hastily leave the scene, which is obviously going to usually be your BEST move.

To further illustrate my thoughts on this matter, here's a link to an article with 10 Lies about Knife Fighting......

http://www.nononsenseselfdefense.com/knifelies.html

In the scenario above - being attacked by a pit bull - your best move would be to simply grab the front paws and rip outwards like you're breaking a wishbone. This was taught to me by a fellow who raised wolves, this move should instantly kill and or incapacitate ANY canine you may encounter. If I remember correctly, it only takes about 8 pounds of force to break this structure so most anybody can use this with outstanding results. In most cases, dogs will jump at you to go for your arms OR throat which would be the most opportune moment to employ such defense. The most important thing however, is to see the attack coming and remaining calm so you can be relaxed enough to make the right action.
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have you ever tried this on a pit or any large powerful breed. My guess is that the dogs jaw will clamp on you before you can complete this maneuver and when it does, you will be fighting just to get it off. Also, if you have ever seen how fast a pit or certain other breeds can attack, the likelihood of grabbing the legs is small. Best defense against dogs is almost always pepper spray. It takes the fight out of them before the fight starts. I have worn the sleeve and been hit by shepherds and even through the sleeve you can feel the power. Shepherds jaw strength is minimal when compared to a pit, rott, or other large powerful mastiff breeds. If one of those hits the sleeve, it hurts. Imagine when they hit you without a sleeve.
 
Cobalt said:
have you ever tried this on a pit or any large powerful breed. My guess is that the dogs jaw will clamp on you before you can complete this maneuver and when it does, you will be fighting just to get it off. Also, if you have ever seen how fast a pit or certain other breeds can attack, the likelihood of grabbing the legs is small. Best defense against dogs is almost always pepper spray. It takes the fight out of them before the fight starts. I have worn the sleeve and been hit by shepherds and even through the sleeve you can feel the power. Shepherds jaw strength is minimal when compared to a pit, rott, or other large powerful mastiff breeds. If one of those hits the sleeve, it hurts. Imagine when they hit you without a sleeve.
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Agreed. At least pepper spray is effective and lets you keep distance. If anyone lets a large breed dog within biting distance then, at best, that person going to have a VERY bad day. Expecting ninja moves to work on something that powerful and fast sounds like wishful thinking. Anyone who doubts that should watch some K9 training videos and note the many of the shepherds aren't as powerful as a mastiff or as fast as many pits.
 
While I have not used this tactic myself in a real encounter, I have turned around to a large breed dog which was within striking distance if they chose. In a situation like this you WILL NOT likely have time to pull your pepper spray and would be stuck using open handed defense.

I would agree that pepper spray is the best defense against four legged critters like canines AT A DISTANCE, but you may not have time to employ it. While the "ninja move" I described may or may not be your best move, it may be your ONLY MOVE depending on how the scenario is unfolding. Like defending against knife attacks, you will likely have some sort of wound after employing this tactic but you will hopefully leave with your life. I'll just have to use my Boss Jack to pry their jaws apart after I've delivered a lethal move.....:eek:;)
 
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You want a fixed blade? I second Jody on the Rat Tail. Check out the Killer B and the Public Defender too.
 
The rat rail is excellent but it's fairly small (and has a choil). The edge needs to be thinned out to really let the design shine.

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