First, a repeat of the specs:
15N20 steel, .095 thick. Blade tops out right at 2 inches broad. Blade is 7 inches long with an overall length of 12.25 inches. Normalized, quenched, baked at 375 and differentially tempered.
The edge grind is a 'scandi convex' where the convex edge is formed by the whole bevel- some people call this a convex zero saber grind. This type of grind is easy to keep up with a firm strop and sharpenable easily with stones or with sandpaper on top of leather - a mousepad may be a bit too soft for the shallow angles near the top of the grind.
I mentioned the generous handle, which is a slightly ovalized "Big Fat Round" handle. Theres some drop at the rear to help with retention while chopping. All the pins are 1/4 inch lanyard tubing, allowing variations in lanyard mounting.
I like straight spines for scraping, better batoning performance, and draw cutting. With this knife I wanted to center the tip more, so I angle the spine and still kept it dead straight
The broad blade and dropped edge obviously help with camp kitchen performance and fine chopping chores. It also provides a secure method of choking WAAAAAY up on the blade.
This is a technique I don't think is common, but which I learned in a commercial kitchen and have taken out into the field with great success.
The finish is vinegar soaked and sanded with crocus cloth. Then the differential temper is done and the blade is hit with crocus cloth again. Spine and tang are lightly blued to match the overall finish.
Filework was put in before I hit the spine with 400 grit, so I broke the really nasty corners that filework can have:
I wanted a strong drilling point and a tip that was easy to sharpen, so I did my traditional 1/4 inch spearpoint: