Case Peanut - Major sharpening issues

If OWE is right (and he generally is IME) and the stones are glazed or clogged, you might try scrubbing them with Comet and either a scotch brite pad or old tooth brush.

That'll clean them if they're clogged with swarf. Glazing would require lapping/resurfacing of the hone, as it's basically a dulling or polishing of the abrasive grit's cutting edges; it leaves the surface of the stone looking 'shiny' in the excessively glazed areas, having been literally polished by the carbides in wear-resistant steels. If so, it's generally simpler to just replace the Lansky hones instead of lapping them, as they're relatively inexpensive anyway; and lapping doesn't always get them back to 'new' performance, if it's not done properly. When glazing & dishing happened with mine, I replaced the worn regular hones with a new Lansky diamond kit, at the time. ;)


David
 
UPDATE: Alright ladies and gentleman - so I gave the peanut another 40 minutes on the Lansky tonight going through the three stones at 20 degrees. Still a horrible unusable edge..

10 minutes later I got a razor edge on my SAK pioneer using the exact same technique.

I'm going to have to learn freehand when I get some half decent stones and the time (more than I already used up on this blade lol..)

Plan now is to track down some DMT credit card stones in Maine (any suggestions? I'm thinking ll bean) and send the knife off somewhere in Canada while I'm gone.

- Ryan


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Well I wish it were this easy but here's the problem with that!

By the time you bolt it in with the Lansky and get the blade in there all snug, your only left with maybe a cm and 1/2 of edge to work with. The stone hits the clamp.


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Yep, happened to me.
If you're really desperate to get an edge, clamp it in with as much blade sticking out as possible and set your stones at the 3rd angle. It'll give it an edge, but definitely not a super slicer.


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The very small blade might be moving in the clamp. Getting it clamped as far forward as possible in the clamp, so there's some access to the edge, might not give it enough hold at the rear of the blade to keep it from pivoting up/down or perhaps slipping/turning in the clamp. If it is moving at all, that'd definitely leave the edge a mess. That's often a problem with difficult-to-clamp blades that are too small or or don't have much flat clamping surface, as part of that issue means the clamp can't grip the blade securely. With an extremely thin & tapered tip, such as the tip on the Peanut's clip blade, the thinner tip may not be supported at all between the clamp's jaws, and it can bend/flex up down, if so.

If looking for the DMT credit card hones in the states, I'd just order them online (knifecenter, Amazon, etc). I've often found it difficult to find brick & mortar stores locally that carry much of the sharpening gear I'd prefer to have. I'd originally found a couple of my DMT credit cards (Fine & EF) at a local Woodcraft store in my area, and I bought my two 6" x 2" Dia-Sharp hones there as well; they've since shut that store down. Had to order the Coarse credit card hone online, eventually.


David

UPDATE: Alright ladies and gentleman - so I gave the peanut another 40 minutes on the Lansky tonight going through the three stones at 20 degrees. Still a horrible unusable edge..

10 minutes later I got a razor edge on my SAK pioneer using the exact same technique.

I'm going to have to learn freehand when I get some half decent stones and the time (more than I already used up on this blade lol..)

Plan now is to track down some DMT credit card stones in Maine (any suggestions? I'm thinking ll bean) and send the knife off somewhere in Canada while I'm gone.

- Ryan


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UPDATE: Alright ladies and gentleman - so I gave the peanut another 40 minutes on the Lansky tonight going through the three stones at 20 degrees. Still a horrible unusable edge..

10 minutes later I got a razor edge on my SAK pioneer using the exact same technique.

I'm going to have to learn freehand when I get some half decent stones and the time (more than I already used up on this blade lol..)

Plan now is to track down some DMT credit card stones in Maine (any suggestions? I'm thinking ll bean) and send the knife off somewhere in Canada while I'm gone.

- Ryan


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I was an islander but you can't get there from here. ;) Where in Maine? Questions about where to buy stuff aren't allowed in this section. But if I understand correctly, it's okay to mention Bladeforums members with dealer accounts. http://www.baryonyxknife.com/ is a Bladeforums dealer member located in Frankfort, ME.
 
Ding ding! We have a winner! :thumbup::thumbup:

Lute is correct, use the small circle method on a little peanut size knife. The setups and gizmo's are not going to work as the knife is too small. Hold the knife in your right hand, if you are right handed, and the stone in your left. Start all the way back by the kick, and start honing in a small circle at about the angle you want. Work your way up to the point of the blade, all the while honing in a small overlapping circle pattern. Do not break contact with the stone because this will cage the angle. Take at least a full minute to get to the point of the blade. Repeat on the other side. Do this until shape. It may help to use a dry erase marker to darken the edges so you can see how your doing.

As far as angle, do not get obsessive over it, it won't make any difference that you can see in real world use. For about the right angle, hold the knife like you're going to saw the stone in half. This is 90 degrees. Lower this angle about half by eyeball. This will put you at about 45 degrees. Now lower that again by half and this is about where your pocket knife blade will be. Start honing there in the small overlapping circles. Don't obsess over a few degrees. It won't matter if it's 22 degrees or 25 degrees, the egg will b sharp if you learn to be consistent.

Free hand sharpening is not rocket science, and it's easy to do once you get the feel for it. The object of the small circle methods it holds a more consistent angle while sharpening because the blade is in constant contact with the sharpening medium no matter if its an Arkansas stone, diamond, or silica stone. No matter. This is actually better with small knives like peanuts and 58mm SAK's.



I will add, don't get in a hurry or do this while fatigued. It will prevent you from goofing the angles too much. The sharpening should be a "I actually feel like sharpening this knife."

I just find when I don't feel like sharpening a knife, I don't sharpen it well.
 
UPDATE: Alright ladies and gentleman - so I gave the peanut another 40 minutes on the Lansky tonight going through the three stones at 20 degrees. Still a horrible unusable edge..

10 minutes later I got a razor edge on my SAK pioneer using the exact same technique.

I'm going to have to learn freehand when I get some half decent stones and the time (more than I already used up on this blade lol..)

Plan now is to track down some DMT credit card stones in Maine (any suggestions? I'm thinking ll bean) and send the knife off somewhere in Canada while I'm gone.

- Ryan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get a stone that you can comfortably hold in your hand. Re-profiling an edge is a bunch of work and you should be comfortable doing it. I recently acquired a Norton IB6 and it was really a joy to sharpen with..... even though it's not quite the "correct stone" to use as it's meant for tools. But the size in the hand is nice.
 
I will add, don't get in a hurry or do this while fatigued. It will prevent you from goofing the angles too much. The sharpening should be a "I actually feel like sharpening this knife."

I just find when I don't feel like sharpening a knife, I don't sharpen it well.

:thumbup:
There's a lot to be said for that.

I've done my best sharpening almost out of a spur of the moment 'compulsion' to do so. There are times when it just sort of hits me that I'm ready for it, both in mind and in the hands, and I'll just grab a particular knife and stone and go for it. At other times, if it feels a little too much like 'work' in considering it, I'll just let it ride for another day, or a week or more, until that compulsion hits me again. Not as big a deal for occasional touchups on knives, which I'll usually do as needed and only take maybe 5 minutes of easy work. But for more ambitious rebevelling jobs, I don't like to force myself into it, and I just wait until it 'feels right' to tackle it.


David
 
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Spyderco sharpmaker will do the trick. Just use almost no pressure and let the stone do the work.

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Chizzholm I to had trouble with my Case knives especially the SS ones. The members here are a great group and wonderful help and what I learned was that I was pushing too hard. One of the members (thank you) replied and explained to me due to the softer RC of the Case knives I needed to use less pressure and sure enough I now can get my Case Old Red Pocket Worn real sharp freehand.
Good Luck keep it up.
Bob
 
Any updates?
Curious situation.

Hey guys, sorry about the lack of posts.. Currently on my last day of my mini-vacation at Old Orchard Beach here.

Picked up a Sharpmaker and DMT credit card 'fine' stone at LL bean. I'm armed and ready now... will post an update within the next two days. Thanks all for the continued tips.

- Ryan


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Hey guys, sorry about the lack of posts.. Currently on my last day of my mini-vacation at Old Orchard Beach here.

Picked up a Sharpmaker and DMT credit card 'fine' stone at LL bean. I'm armed and ready now... will post an update within the next two days. Thanks all for the continued tips.

- Ryan


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Those should do the trick for you. For Case's steels, a Sharpmaker is all you really need. It is actually a form of guided free-handing, and the ceramic stones are quite sufficient for Tru Sharp and CV. The fine diamond card is useful for quick field touch-ups.

Stay on the medium (brown) stones until you get the edge apexed. I know the video shows alternating strokes, but I work one side only until I get the burr, then the other, before going to alternating strokes to remove the burr. For burr removal, use lighter pressure. Especially with the Tru Sharp, Case steels will keep creating a fresh burr if you use too much pressure with the ceramic stones, so instead of removing it, you are constantly flipping it back and forth and making a fresh one.

I wouldn't move to the fine (white) sticks until I had a good edge off the mediums, and then use the fines for refinement and polishing.
 
Perhaps you're overthinking things here. Take that peanut, lay it nearly flat on your Norton India (or whatever stone you prefer), and go to town. It's a very small blade, it shouldn't take long at all.
 
I admit to being somewhat a voyeur on this thread. Been following it and hoping to hear things got squared away.

It's tough to hear someone struggling to get their new companion put in order. You just want to take a seat beside them and work thru the issue with them. Of course that's impossible over the net but you've got some talent helping you out and I think you'll get there soon.

I'll keep rooting for you. Good luck.

Will
 
Honestly, when i first got my peanut i had the same problem. I learned to sharpen freehand at the ripe old age of 5, (im 26 now)but it was with stainless. I had the hrdest time with carbon steel until i realized i only needed very light pressure, slightly more than the weight of the knife. Once i figured that out, everything elese fell into place. Hope that helps a bit
 
UPDATE:

Alright guys. The peanut is officially............ SHARP! The Sharpmaker worked fantastically, the stones feel much higher quality than the lanskys stones. I picked up a schrade old timer "Pal" for 12.99 and used this to learn the Sharpmaker as I felt starting out with the peanut in the shape I had left it in would be truly punishing myself...

After I spent about 20 minutes with the brown stones recreating the mangled edge from me using the Lansky it was a breeze. For all of you that said "light touches" - thank you. This was my biggest issue as I keep creating a burr on either side and never eliminating it (thank you for the explanation on that one jc57). I found with a steel like Case's CV, I needed to use less and less pressure progressively.

Lastly, I'd like to mention that getting frustrated did not help me at all and it seemed so much easier to blame the steel rather than my technique. Sharpening is truly an art and I foresee myself sinking a good amount of time and money into it in the near future, as if knife collecting wasn't enough (queue the displeased girlfriend lol)

Big thank you to all of the blade forum members, this was incredibly educational for a newbie sharpener like myself and there was a ton of great tips.. I hope this will help some people like it did myself.

Cheers.

- Ryan


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