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Chef Knives To Go, Chosera Stones, and Edge Pro. I need some Advice.

I don't think Ken cuts all the EP items for Mr. Richmond. So I'd make sure who cut what, where and when before purchasing. Ken's stuff is first rate. Go direct to Ken if you want to know for sure where your aftermarket EP stones are coming from so you get the best product available.

I have an Apex but I really haven't used it much. I will in the future but its really for experimentation. Your biggest enemy with the EP is using to much downward pressure. Easy to do. Gravity and the weight of the arm and stone are more than enough to get good results.

Thanks for the info. What is your primary sharpening method?
 
It depend on the item. Belt sanders for most common kitchen knives and folders. Its all about the media used and technique. Water stones for finer items. It depends on the knife, customers intended use of the knife and what level of sharp they want.
 
It depend on the item. Belt sanders for most common kitchen knives and folders. Its all about the media used and technique. Water stones for finer items. It depends on the knife, customers intended use of the knife and what level of sharp they want.

That makes sense. From your experience with the EP, what do you think compared to other methods?
 
Does anyone have any experience with the "ADAEE" stones? they're extremely cheap. As in 8 stones, grit 120-3000, for $20. Also, is that something I want to put on my knives? Is it one of those things that will give me cancer in like 5 years? haha.

I use them quite often with pretty dang good results.

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Did you seriously get that edge using the Chinese ADAEE stone? That is very impressive! I might pick me up set of those. How long do they hold up?

Those stones and three strops loaded with 3,000 8,000 and 14,000 grit diapaste. I bought the basic set of like 4 stones back in October 2013. Used them all year. The lower grits finally got dished enough to need to flatten them and figured it'd be easier and probably cheaper just to buy a new set so I did probably November 2014. I reprofiled Elmax, S30V, S110V, PSF27, D2, and some 1095 damascus among others. The Elmax and S110V were both on ZT 0560s and with blades that thick it's not easy but the stones held up fine. I use the hell out of my PSF27 and S30V blades so I sharpen them every other week or so. I also sharpen two 6" kitchen knives with 8CR13MOV steel at about the same frequency. So on average I sharpen on a regular and recurring basis 2 knives a week. I've reprofiled probably 7 or 8 blades down to about 10 to 15 degrees per side, lopping off about 5 degrees per side on selected knives, depending on the knife. That's not including the other knives I sharpen for coworkers on occasion. All that was done with the basic set plus strops before "needing" to replace them.

Full disclosure, when I got the second set one of the stones was separating from the backing. A little gorilla glue easily solved that problem. From what I've seen the stones are cut at about the same accuracy as the Congress stones I've had. If I had to compare I'd say the congress stones give a more uniform scratch pattern while leaving the surface far cloudier at the same relative grits as the ADAEE stones. I rarely pull out the congress stones anymore because I end up with better finishes with the ADAEE stones. That and my 600 grit moldmaster sheds like crazy.
 
Those stones and three strops loaded with 3,000 8,000 and 14,000 grit diapaste. I bought the basic set of like 4 stones back in October 2013. Used them all year. The lower grits finally got dished enough to need to flatten them and figured it'd be easier and probably cheaper just to buy a new set so I did probably November 2014. I reprofiled Elmax, S30V, S110V, PSF27, D2, and some 1095 damascus among others. The Elmax and S110V were both on ZT 0560s and with blades that thick it's not easy but the stones held up fine. I use the hell out of my PSF27 and S30V blades so I sharpen them every other week or so. I also sharpen two 6" kitchen knives with 8CR13MOV steel at about the same frequency. So on average I sharpen on a regular and recurring basis 2 knives a week. I've reprofiled probably 7 or 8 blades down to about 10 to 15 degrees per side, lopping off about 5 degrees per side on selected knives, depending on the knife. That's not including the other knives I sharpen for coworkers on occasion. All that was done with the basic set plus strops before "needing" to replace them.

Full disclosure, when I got the second set one of the stones was separating from the backing. A little gorilla glue easily solved that problem. From what I've seen the stones are cut at about the same accuracy as the Congress stones I've had. If I had to compare I'd say the congress stones give a more uniform scratch pattern while leaving the surface far cloudier at the same relative grits as the ADAEE stones. I rarely pull out the congress stones anymore because I end up with better finishes with the ADAEE stones. That and my 600 grit moldmaster sheds like crazy.

That was very informative. I'm glad to hear that they are good stones and up to the challenge. I'm not scared by the fact that it was separating; I have no issue gluing it back on if needed. Ebay is offering a very good deal. Grits 120-3000, are going for like $23 (It's only for the EP).

Thanks again!
 
If you look up "image professional knife sharpener" on the south American river website, I can attest that that's not a piece of junk either. So if you get that you'll have enough money left over for some good strop paste and a new knife too.
 
That makes sense. From your experience with the EP, what do you think compared to other methods?

The best "methods" are what the individual is comfortable with and gives them good results for that particular task. The EP gives one a good base for repeatable results without a clamp system. I'm not big on clamps for knife sharpening personally. Although I'm sure lots of folks get good results with them. Just not my thing. I get the best results freehand sharpening. But I've been at it awhile.
 
If you look up "image professional knife sharpener" on the south American river website, I can attest that that's not a piece of junk either. So if you get that you'll have enough money left over for some good strop paste and a new knife too.

I tried to look it up. I couldn't find a website named South American River. If you don't mind, could you post a link to the website?
 
@Meast58 >> If, as you say in your first post, you are not interested in reprofile work, I would recommend staying away from a jigged sharpening system (like the EP).

I use a modified EP system and a number of other types of sharpeners. EP is a great system for putting controlled bevels (especially double & triple bevels including transitional bevels).

If your simply looking to sharpen knives that have factory bevels, I would say you want to look at something like freehanding on stones or something like CrockSticks/Sharpmaker. The reason I say this if that most factory bevels are pretty uneven both from ricasso to tip & side to side (for that matter many also have left/right primary bevels that also vary), and are more easily matched without a jigged sharpener.

Following uneven factory grinds is not what jigged sharpening is designed for (at least not in my mind). Jigged sharpening, to me, is about establishing a consistent & repeatable initial initial sharpening.

It is my guess that much of what is posted related to EP system stones not lasting relates to short-stroking (wearing the middle by not stroking the entire stone along the edge), too much pressure, etc. Watch a few vid's on Youtube and you'll see many folks using EP & WickedEdge with short fast strokes ...

I typically start a reprofile (initial bevel sharpening) with diamond stones, then progress up through grits depending on purpose of particular blade.

A simple ceramic stone or rod & a strop can typically satisfactorily maintenance any factory edge.

Regards
 
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The best "methods" are what the individual is comfortable with and gives them good results for that particular task. The EP gives one a good base for repeatable results without a clamp system. I'm not big on clamps for knife sharpening personally. Although I'm sure lots of folks get good results with them. Just not my thing. I get the best results freehand sharpening. But I've been at it awhile.

I will probably get into free handing at some point. I'm a little intimidated by it right now. There is so much to learn, I feel overwhelmed. It also seems to be more expensive than just getting a sharpening system, such as the EP. I think it's a very good skill to learn (freehand). I have been using the DMT F and XXF, 4'' stones. I can get a pretty decent edge with those two stones (It will pop hair). I feel like there is significant room for improvement though. The thing that I find appealing about the EP, is that you can keep an exact angle. I also like the fact that you could know exactly what angle has been set. I guess those two things only come with experience.
 
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Experience! The tool using the tool is the most important factor ;-) Sounds like you are doing well with what you have. Consider just expanding what you have a little. Coarser stones for roughing in edges and maybe a strop on the refinement side. And if you're not yet, start marking your edges with a sharpie to more easily see how the stones are making contact as you progress.
 
@Meast58 >> If, as you say in your first post, you are not interested in reprofile work, I would recommend staying away from a jigged sharpening system (like the EP).
I use a modified EP system and a number of other types of sharpeners. EP is a great system for putting controlled bevels (especially double & triple bevels including transitional bevels).
If your simply looking to sharpen knives that have factory bevels, I would say you want to look at something like freehanding on stones or something like CrockSticks/Sharpmaker. The reason I say this if that mist factory bevels are pretty uneven both from ricasso to tip & side to side (for that matter many also have left/right primary bevels that also vary).
Following uneven factory grinds is not what jigged sharpening is designed for (at least not in my mind). Jigged sharpening, to me, is about establishing a consistent & repeatable initial initial sharpening.
It is my guess that much of what is posted related to EP system stones not lasting relates to short-stroking (wearing the middle), too much pressure, etc.
I typically start a reprofile (initial bevel sharpening) with diamond stones, then progress up through grits depending on purpose of particular blade.
A simple ceramic stone or rod & a strop can typically maintenance any factory edge.
Regards

If I were to get into freehand; where should I start? What stones would you recommend for a newbie?

Does what I've been doing count as "freehand"? I've never used a full sized stone, just the little 4" DMTs.
 
Experience! The tool using the tool is the most important factor ;-) Sounds like you are doing well with what you have. Consider just expanding what you have a little. Coarser stones for roughing in edges and maybe a strop on the refinement side.

Yes, you're right!

I forgot to add, I do use a strop. I have it loaded with green compound.
 
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