Chipped Fallkniven

I think if you want to chop with it the bevel will need to be thicker and, at the end of the day, probably the wrong tool for the job... or at the very least the wrong steel for the tool.
 
I have read a very few complaints of Fallkniven chipping, but it has been a couple of years. This does not look normal. I have hacked through deer bones (and larger) with 420, 425, D2, 440C (which is known for small chips), 12C27, ATS-34, and 154CM and have never had this happen. I know these are not VG10 but the last two are close. I think something went wrong with the heat treat. I would send it back to Fallkniven.
 
Vayu said:
Send it back to Fallkniven. Alternately, send it to Albert at Seattle Edge to reprofile. That is significant damage. A tool steel might be more appropriate for that sort of use. Watch out for those chips in your meat...
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That's why we "debone" everything we process. If you just go through joints you don't get the marrow taste in the meat.
 
To me this is significant damage that I would consider defective bone or no bone. Most makers worth their salt test the edges of their knives by cutting through solid brass rod. I could see small chips in the actual edge but having them extend that far back to me something went wrong with the HT. Another question are we sure this is a genuine fallkniven? There are a lot of fakes out there and if this was picked up at a good price at a gunshow or a swap meet then it may be the real deal.
 
That's very disturbing. And I have always admired Fallkniven.

1) Fallknivens are known to chip before you sharpen them. Which is disturbing in its own right, but fixable. Though I'm becoming less and less tolerant of new knives that have to be fixed first. That "normal" chipping is, from what I gather, nowhere near as drastic as yours.

2) Fallkniven says on their website:

"Model A1 is a semi-large all-purpose knife for heavy duty use. The powerful blade is made of extremely hard yet tough laminated VG10 steel and will withstand the stress of hard use. The knife is superb to chop with, but also works very well with daily tasks, thanks to the ergonomic grip. "

So it should be able to handle that one would hope.

I don't know what to think. Scary.

At least if it was a Bark River we could just blame "user error." :D
 
marcinek said:
That's very disturbing. And I have always admired Fallkniven.

1) Fallknivens are known to chip before you sharpen them. Which is disturbing in its own right, but fixable. Though I'm becoming less and less tolerant of new knives that have to be fixed first. That "normal" chipping is, from what I gather, nowhere near as drastic as yours.

2) Fallkniven says on their website:

"Model A1 is a semi-large all-purpose knife for heavy duty use. The powerful blade is made of extremely hard yet tough laminated VG10 steel and will withstand the stress of hard use. The knife is superb to chop with, but also works very well with daily tasks, thanks to the ergonomic grip. "

So it should be able to handle that one would hope.

I don't know what to think. Scary.

At least if it was a Bark River we could just blame "user error." :D
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I'm Starting to like you :D
 
The owner of fallkniven is reachable on knifeforums. Pose the question to him in their thread. I find them to be very accommodating. Good luck
 
there is no need to fix it , i think leave those wounds here , use your knife as before.
 
I agree with Dingy. You are half-way to having a serrated A1, all you need now is to fully butcher a hog with the thing.

I had a Western Bowie back in the 80's and chipped the blade butchering a hog. I didn't want to fully regrind the blade - which I thought would be necessary to remove the 1/8" deep chip. Since I used it exclusively for chopping and splitting, I just eased the edges and sharpened the whole edge again, including the rounded chip. Odd, and probably misguided approach, I know, but it never bothered me and never hindered the use of the knife for the tasks I used it for.

I wouldn't do that with an A1, though, and I don't hack thru bone with a knife anymore. Estwing Camp Axe does that sort of task very well and they cost less than $50. I've found chopping thru bone is pretty stressful on a very sharp blade. Even if you do it often and get away with it, you are rolling the dice each time and sooner or later the odds will catch up with you. An Esee, or Busse would be a better choice if you want to carry one tool for the whole butchering process, but I don't like skinning out a critter with a big, thick knife.

Good luck with the A1. I'm very interested in how contacting Fallkniven goes. I love Fallkniven knives and if they will replace or repair the knife in spite of the event that caused the damage, I will love them even more.

Tombo 65
 
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Something isn't right. I have seen micro chips on a Fallkniven but nothing like that.
 
8thgentxn said:
hTfNupW


Ok, here goes. I just bought this A1 from my brother totally unused. I killed a buck this last weekend and used the A1 to clean it. It went through skin, muscle, and cartilage like warm butter. When it came to bone I figured "like a Dumbass" to hack away. It did the job but after I was done I noticed the chips. I was so bummed it took away the excitement from the kill. The buck was hanging so the only thing I hit was bone. After seeing all the YouTube videos of people trying to destroy the A1 I thought I was in the clear. After my brother saw what I had done he laughed and said I should have used an H1 for skinning and a saw for bones.
My question now is can I fix this and if so how?
Thanks
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Ouch!
That's ugly but possible to fix!

Fällkniven HQ offers sharpening service on watercooled beltsanders.
That is what I would recommend in this case.

Regards
Mikael
 
Mikael W said:
Ouch!
That's ugly but possible to fix!

Fällkniven HQ offers sharpening service on watercooled beltsanders.
That is what I would recommend in this case.

Regards
Mikael
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There's the person I wanted to hear from! My Fallkniven guru! Do have a guess as to the cause Mikael? If you would rather not do that...that's understandable. :thumbup:
 
marcinek said:
There's the person I wanted to hear from! My Fallkniven guru! Do have a guess as to the cause Mikael? If you would rather not do that...that's understandable. :thumbup:
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No worrie's John!
This has happened to some of my larger knives as well, but never to my Fällkniven models.

I'm not guessing here, I'm pretty convinced that for chopping into bones, the OP's A1 need a thicker bevel.
These kind of halfmoon chips occur when the edge is too thin for the material being cut and/or the factory edge has gone too hot in the final sharpening.

The cure for this particular A1 will be to get a new, thicker edge on a beltsander.
To not burn the edge again, there need to be a lot of cooling with water during the regrind.


Regards
Mikael
 
After all of yall's suggestions I decided to return my A-1 to a Fallkniven retailer. The guy could not have been more accomadating. Returned to Fallkniven for no charge. When I get my A-1 back I will be purchasing an H-1 from them for not making me jump through a @&$? Load of hoops. Thank you for helping me decide what to do.
1239161-Chipped-Fallkniven.jpg
 
8thgentxn said:
After all of yall's suggestions I decided to return my A-1 to a Fallkniven retailer. The guy could not have been more accomadating. Returned to Fallkniven for no charge. When I get my A-1 back I will be purchasing an H-1 from them for not making me jump through a @&$? Load of hoops. Thank you for helping me decide what to do.
1239161-Chipped-Fallkniven.jpg
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Sounds like a serious dealer indeed!


Regards
Mikael
 
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