Chipped Fallkniven

Well, color me impressed. Glad to hear that its being made right :). Out of curiosity, are you dealing with Fallkniven directly, or the place where your brother purchased the blade?

And maybe its just me, but I might try the saw or a hatchet for the bone next time :p.
 
Mikael just said what I said ... Great minds think alike. How is your Idun holding up?

My Idun has always held up perfectly!
The Frey needed a few sharpenings, before it started to perform as the Idun and my other NL's.

Regards
Mikael
 
After all of yall's suggestions I decided to return my A-1 to a Fallkniven retailer. The guy could not have been more accomadating. Returned to Fallkniven for no charge. When I get my A-1 back I will be purchasing an H-1 from them for not making me jump through a @&$? Load of hoops. Thank you for helping me decide what to do.
1239161-Chipped-Fallkniven.jpg

well now. I am impressed. Congrats on getting it taken care of. But I might avoid the bones next time around. Just sayin, lol.
 
Good to see OP is getting everything worked out:thumbup:

But again,

I have no clue why everyone is so surprised that Vg10 with a thin bevel chipped out when chopping into bone..... OP clearly states that he was being a "dumbass" and "hacking" away. Isn't it possible he might have been going at an angle that put too much lateral stress on the thin edge? Add to that the fact that VG 10 is already known to be chippy in general, and for falkniven it's a well known fact that it will be chippy before sharpening, and well...... there ya go

Bottom line: Use the right tool for the job. Don't chop bones with a thin vg10 edge. Go thicker and use a nice carbon steel to minimize the damage.
 
Bone is surprisingly hard. I once severely chipped my Iltis Oxhead double-bit trying to chop antlers off a moose (it worked fine for splitting the breastbone, though). A fine file will take those chips out if you don't want to send the blade to someone for regrinding. Just remember: an ax for chopping (but not antlers:o); knife for cutting and skinning.
 
Good to see OP is getting everything worked out:thumbup:

But again,

I have no clue why everyone is so surprised that Vg10 with a thin bevel chipped out when chopping into bone..... OP clearly states that he was being a "dumbass" and "hacking" away. Isn't it possible he might have been going at an angle that put too much lateral stress on the thin edge? Add to that the fact that VG 10 is already known to be chippy in general, and for falkniven it's a well known fact that it will be chippy before sharpening, and well...... there ya go

Bottom line: Use the right tool for the job. Don't chop bones with a thin vg10 edge. Go thicker and use a nice carbon steel to minimize the damage.

VG-10 hold up just as well or better, than 1095 with the same geometry and same impact!


Regards
Mikael
 
VG-10 hold up just as well or better, than 1095 with the same geometry and same impact!


Regards
Mikael

I find that hard to believe......

With the right heat treat, something like 1095, 5160, or 3v is definately not going to chip as easily as vg10. No way in hell

But regardless, notice that I said thicken up the bevel AND use a nice carbon steel. Even carbon steel with a thin edge is likely going to chip when hacking at bone.
 
I find that hard to believe......

With the right heat treat, something like 1095, 5160, or 3v is definately not going to chip as easily as vg10. No way in hell

.

Use big knives in various steels and compare with VG-10 and You will probably notice that VG-10 isn't as chippy as You think!


Regards
Mikael
 
I chipped my Fallkniven F1 doing something I should not have been doing with it as well. I LOVE That knife. Fortunately I just broke a piece of the tip off and was able to profile a new tip on it. It's a great steel but it is hard. I would recommend what others have and find a different tool for chopping bone. Maybe a cheap hatchet or nice hatchet, whichever you own.
 
Use big knives in various steels and compare with VG-10 and You will probably notice that VG-10 isn't as chippy as You think!

Regards
Mikael


That may be so, but it's still not tougher than the carbon steels I listed. Hacking at bones is unwise regardless of the steel, but that doesn't mean that vg10 is just as tough as carbon steels
 
That may be so, but it's still not tougher than the carbon steels I listed. Hacking at bones is unwise regardless of the steel, but that doesn't mean that vg10 is just as tough as carbon steels

There are a lot of steels with greater toughness than VG-10!
When comparing 1095 with VG-10 in larger knives for chopping, I have seen the VG-10 as the better steel.

The knives have the same geometry and by mistake I lightly hit a rock with both knives.
The 1095 took more damage than the VG-10.

By using my knives side by side, I have noticed a slight advantage for the VG-10 knives.
I have used these knives for more than 5 years now and I can't agree with VG-10 being chippy!


Regards
Mikael
 
I have no clue why everyone is so surprised that Vg10 with a thin bevel chipped out when chopping into bone...

Where does it say how "thin" the edge was??
According to an old thread, the Fallkniven A1 is ~0.060" behind the edge, ~20-dps (approximate, I know it's convex which should be stronger). http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/132281-What-s-the-blade-angle-on-the-A1

That is not a "thin bevel", that is a chopping edge and thicker than an ESEE Junglas, more like a Busse. Ever seen that happen to a Junglas chopping anything? What about a Busse? At 0.06", that should not have happened.
 
I've had fallkniven and spyderco vg-10 chip and I won't own either anymore. Both had extremely different designs and bevels but they both chipped. I hate chippy steel almost as much as I hate choils.
 
It surprised me a bit to see that much damage, even from bone. I have a lot of faith in Fallknivens VG10, it is some pretty tough stuff.
 
There are a lot of steels with greater toughness than VG-10!
When comparing 1095 with VG-10 in larger knives for chopping, I have seen the VG-10 as the better steel.

The knives have the same geometry and by mistake I lightly hit a rock with both knives.
The 1095 took more damage than the VG-10.


By using my knives side by side, I have noticed a slight advantage for the VG-10 knives.
I have used these knives for more than 5 years now and I can't agree with VG-10 being chippy!


Regards
Mikael

So did you scientifically replicate the contact with this rock?

There are WAY to many variables in play for you to draw any kind of conclusions from this experience. And who made the knives? What were their hardnesses? How well were they heat treated?
As for the rest of your experience with the two.... Once again, was EVERYTHING the same between them besides the steel?
I'm not saying vg10 CANT POSSIBLY be made to be better than 1095. I'm just saying that all things being the same, 1095 is the tougher steel.
 
I have quite a few Fallknivens. I always sharpen the factory edge away when they are new as I think the very apex is too thin and I'd rather reprofile right off the bat instead of risking having to sharpen chips out later. I haven't had any problems so far with my F1's , A1's and S1's since I've done that. The 3 main Fallknivens ( F1,S1 and A1) are actually pretty thick knives , but come with what I think is a very thin primary edge.

Those chips look pretty serious though , and would need a lot of bench/belt sander time to sort it out. But , it could be done.
 
Where does it say how "thin" the edge was??
According to an old thread, the Fallkniven A1 is ~0.060" behind the edge, ~20-dps (approximate, I know it's convex which should be stronger). http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/132281-What-s-the-blade-angle-on-the-A1

That is not a "thin bevel", that is a chopping edge and thicker than an ESEE Junglas, more like a Busse. Ever seen that happen to a Junglas chopping anything? What about a Busse? At 0.06", that should not have happened.

ESEEs and Busses don't use vg10........;)


But you're right, I don't know how thick the edge was. Maybe OP should measure and let us all know:thumbup:

However, IMO it doesn't matter that the bevel wasn't especialy thin.... Even 20 per side on vg10 is thin enough to chip when CHOPPING BONES. OP was also likely hitting it at weird angles, and fallknives factory edges are known to chip even under light use. Do the math

Factor edge is already likely to chip + VG10 is not very tough + thinISH edge + hard impact on bone + weird angles that add extra stress==== bigs honkin chips in your edge
 
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