Chop off TEST Cold Steel Vs. Busse PICTURES

Cliff you are one advanced dude:D
Tell me like I am a 5 year old:confused:
You want me to chop maximum strenght with the two knives and I can do this all day long;) I am that kind of man:grumpy:
I just wanted to see and test what knife I worked the best with. I think that if I used maximum strenght the Busse would do better due to the weight.

Cheers,

André
 
500jefferyDK said:
You want me to ...

I don't want you to do anything besides what you have fun doing. There are things that I would be curious to see but I would never tell someone who is freely providing me with information what they should or should not do, I would just appreciate what I was given. It would be absurd to do otherwise.

Have you used the "E" handled Busse knives, if so do you feel the Fusion is an improvement, both in terms of grip and general blade design? Interesting comments on the grip, does that have the dual checkering pattern, rougher towards the choil and smoother in the back? Nice pictures by the way, what did you take them with?

-Cliff
 
Cliff its all cool:D
I would like to do another test with some input from other knife aficionados.
Your input is apreciated. Help me make this test better;)

The handle is like you described.
I only have tree Busse knives, another HOFSH LE and a Satin Jack LE (6" knife with convex blade .220" thick) Not a chopper.
I just sold a Swamp rat battle guard, the knife was not to my liking. and also sold a Mr. MOJO that might had dome well in the test but was not my style.

My camera is Minolta 3.2 mega Pix. Wife got me that :)

Cheers,

André

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Thanks for the review Cliff. Its good to see some of those big knives in action. :thumbup:
 
barrabas74 said:
Thanks for the review Cliff. Its good to see some of those big knives in action. :thumbup:
Hahaha, sorry, André, but it looks like Cliff stole your review from you.
 
André,

Well done comparison. I am surprised that the greater mass of the Busse did not make more difference. The design of the Kurki for chopping applications is very effective as you stated. Very interesting to see it demonstrated.

Thanks a million!

Dave
 
It is OK he sems like a nice man:)
Maybe if he comes up with some imput for tomorows test he can be credited.

Cheers,

André
 
500jefferyDK said:
I just sold a Swamp rat battle guard, the knife was not to my liking.

I don't like that style of guard but do like the general blade pattern. What were your issues? In regards for comparisons, there are many things you can address in general for wood working :

- soft woods vs hard woods
- springy woods vs rigid
- fluidity in wood
- versatility of the sweet spot
- high precision and lighter chopping, clear a notch for wood joints
- felling vs bucking vs limbing
- use of the spine to break off dead limbs, gather pine knots
- splitting both with the blade and plus with a baton
- use for carving, fine shavings, general shaping
- use as a draw knife
- using the point for carving a hollow and drilling a hole
- breaking apart a stump for pitch wood
- breaking apart dead fall to burn (or eat the tasty bits inside if inclined)
-gathering bark, thin and thin and working with it

You could spent a long time on any of these aspects in detail. For splitting for example you have open vs tight wood, clear vs knotty, and straight vs twisted grain. Then you have working rounds vs logs and making rough splits vs fine shingles. Then there is splitting for construction where you are doing multiple splits on very thin wood for lamination, weaving, etc. . In general it is impossible for any knife to be optimal for all of this so the knives will tend to be strong on some things and weak on others.

Really nice pictures, I need a new camera.

-Cliff
 
GarageBoy said:
So..which one was most comfortable after those chops?
He stated that the Busse would become a discomfort over time because of the hard Micarta scales, and that he's very comfortable with his Trailmaster.
 
Jeffery - Thanks for taking the time to do the outstanding pics. I've done little tests of my own but am usually so caught up in the moment that I neglect to document it. Nice job!

I'm curious... have you had any experience with a traditional khukuri? I wonder how you would find it compares to the LTC.

Way to go, taking that HO out and actually using it! Jerry would be proud! My new Heavy Heart has become my "go to" for camping the last couple of trips.
 
I am going out again today and will perform some of the tests surgested by Cliff Stamp

- soft woods vs hard woods
- springy woods vs rigid
- fluidity in wood
- versatility of the sweet spot
- high precision and lighter chopping, clear a notch for wood joints
- felling vs bucking vs limbing
- use of the spine to break off dead limbs, gather pine knots
- splitting both with the blade and plus with a baton
- use for carving, fine shavings, general shaping
- use as a draw knife
- using the point for carving a hollow and drilling a hole
- breaking apart a stump for pitch wood
- breaking apart dead fall to burn (or eat the tasty bits inside if inclined)
-gathering bark, thin and thin and working with it

Paddeling man

I'm curious... have you had any experience with a traditional khukuri? I wonder how you would find it compares to the LTC.
My khukri is not the LTC but the larger Khukri. I do not think they make this anymore. The tree best knives from Cold Steel is no longer in production - Strange- They are: Satin Trail master in Carbon V satin recon Scout also in carbon V and the satin Khukri all knives where made from 5/16" stock. I have a newer recon scout but the "new" school carbon V is not of same quality then the old ones:grumpy:
I have no experience with the traditional khukris are the steel any good?

Stay tuned there will be more pictures:D

Cheers,

André
 
I have an old "local" Kukri, and blade is Carbon steel, it cuts quite well, but i never perform such test !:D
 
Great rewiev 500jefferyDK!

Plain wood can damage the edge of a Busse? I'm stunned! :eek:
 
Great post and pictures! Real knives doing real work.

What I'd like to know was what was the cost per stroke to cut completely through the pine. That would be the knife's cost divided by the number of strokes.

As much as I like good fixed blades I still favor a portable bow saw for cutting wood when camping (unless I can bring my 20" Husqvarna along).

Thanks for posting it.
 
Andre,

Thanks for the awesome review.
Those pictures are simply amazing!

Allen.
 
Sportsfans I am back:D
Wake up Amerika - country of many knife aficionados.

I performed some more chopping testing of the knives.

Are you ready? Lets go....

Cheers,

André

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500jefferyDK said:
I have no experience with the traditional khukris are the steel any good?

There is a lot of variation in where you buy them from. Himalayan Imports has a good reputation.

-Cliff
 
Gentlemen

This time I wanted to chop with maximum strength to see if the knives worked better with that technique.
This time I used leather gloves.
I also wanted to do some limbing.
The wood is pine and not fresh.

I found tree small trees that where pretty much the same. The thickest one where for the Kukri, he had it coming after doing so well in the last test.

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The limbing took about 3-4 minutes all depending on how many limbs where on the tree.
The kukri felt a little heavy for this type of work but it was no problem working with it. On a 1-10 I rated the performance 7.

The Trail Master felt allot lighter and worker very well for this task. It was the fastest of the lot. I rated its performance 9.

The HOFSH LE is the heaviest knife of the lot but for this job it did not matter. Sliding the knife along the log worked well and the weight was working for the knife not against it. It is however a little more bulkier then the Trailmaster and its performance is rated 8 but a high 8.

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The logs where ready for some POWER chopping and my muscles where warm.
The knives was inspected and no blade damage was observed on any of the knives.

I chopped the same piece of wood with all the knives and used the thickest one. (the one that was limbed by the kukri)

The Kukri was first. Please note that the log gets a little thinner after a piece is chopped of. The first tree chops where not effected by this IMO.

The Kukri used 44 power strokes to split the log in half. And yes I did have a BIG smile on my face while doing this.

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After chopping with the Kukri on an old stump I decided to get a higher stump and a better working platform for the testing of the knives. I wanted the log to be up where I could put the most power into it. The kukri is longer and working low with it is no problem.

Choptesttwo7.jpg


The HOFSH LE was up. I did not want to use the heaviest knife last and being confronted with questions like " you used the heavy knife last and maybe you where tired" LOL I DO NOT GET TIRED but anyway The Busse was up.

The HOFSH LE used 45 strokes to split the log in half, almost the same as the Kukri. For a short blade (8") it cuts deep. Note that I chop with the centre of the blade and not the front part.!!! The front part did not go as deep as the centre of the blade!!! I tested this theory many times. I chop very relaxed and maybe the weight from the handle can explain this.

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The Trail Master was up.
Only 43 strokes to split the log!!! The precision of this knife is amazing it is very well balanced and even felt a bit to light but cuts deep enough. Not as deep as the Busse but almost. Check out the precession work clean cuts.

Choptesttwo11.jpg


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After this I was a bit puzzled!! And gave the HOFSH LE another go 49 strokes dam - the log got thinner after this point but I gave it another try 34 strokes. Then I used the Trailmaster again 23 strokes. The log was a bit thinner but not much thinner then the part that the HOFSH LE used 34 strokes to split.
The Kukri was up on the work bench 19 strokes what a chopping machine and what great hour in the forest.

The most impressive part of the test was that after limbing and chopping with the Trail Master It could still shave hair !!!! not so that they popped of like before I started but it could still shave!!! WOW that is crazy after such hard strokes.

Non of the knives had any damage on the edges. Remember the HOFSH LE that got small deformations on the factory edge? I sharpened the HOFSH LE before the test with a Translucent Arkansas stone and polished the edge with an even finer stone. Seems like a finer edge on the INFI steel is the way to go. I might even make it a bit thinner and see how that turns out.

Cheers,

André

PS I will go out again tomorrow, what tests should I perform?

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