Chris Reeve's no-flick policy

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Ankerson said:
Developing any kind of play, lock travel etc.

I have pushed enough framelocks over the years to know how easy it really is to get them to that point, even to the point of having them rattle.
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This may be the wrong thread, but I have a question.


When it come to rattle, the knife may still be "safe".

I mean, a zero-degree lock-tang will be "fail-safe" yet it will have rattle, and a 10-degree lock-tang will be without play but may fail under abuse.
(I hope I'm getting my point across.)

You got any thoughts along these lines?

Play does not equal potential for failure, but it may or may not mean other negative things.
 
Nullity said:
This may be the wrong thread, but I have a question.


When it come to rattle, the knife may still be "safe".

I mean, a zero-degree lock-tang will be "fail-safe" yet it will have rattle, and a 10-degree lock-tang will be without play but may fail under abuse.
(I hope I'm getting my point across.)

You got any thoughts along these lines?

Play does not equal potential for failure, but it may or may not mean other negative things.
Click to expand...


It's well known over on the green forum that years ago I trashed my SmF RW-1 to the point that it sounded like an old Military .45 it rattled so bad....

No, it never failed and I tested it by spine whacking it about 50 times, overhead strikes as hard as I could on a hard table just to see, that was part of it.

Mick and Duane knew about it, what I was going to do...

Bottom line is it never failed, they fixed it and I still have that knife today and it has zero play in any direction.
 
Ankerson said:
In the end if one treats and uses a CRK with care and respect it will last them their lifetime and likely their kids lifetimes.
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This is the precisely correct answer. I'm not a flicker but if I was I'd still respect the manufacturer's warranty and not whine about it. You knew the rules when you bought it, or should have if you've spent more than one month on this board.
 
chrisfa said:
interesting
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Not really, framelocks are really no stronger than linerlocks are so they require the same care, they both work well though as long as they are properly designed and in spec.
 
Ankerson said:
Not really, framelocks are really no stronger than linerlocks are so they require the same care, they both work well though as long as they are properly designed and in spec.
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I like frame locks better because for me they are easier to disengage
 
Ankerson said:
Not really, framelocks are really no stronger than linerlocks are so they require the same care, they both work well though as long as they are properly designed and in spec.
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My working theory has been that the only real functional advantage of framelocks over linerlocks is that they're less likely to have issues caused by grit/dirt/"stuff" building up between the locking leaf and the scale. I'm open to education on that point...
 
Disclaimer: I do not own any CRK knives and never have. I have no experience with their warranty or service. :o

I can't imagine Mr.Reeve begruding anyone warranty work on any of his knives where the blade-wear matches the pivot wear. But I can see him getting irritated by fixing worn-out pivots when the blade looks brand new, year after year (keep in mind that he's been in the game a long time now.) I seem to recall reading a quote from him:

Chris Reeve Knives said:
(...)I have no wish to cast aspersions as to any one person’s obsessive behavior that keeps them opening and closing a knife compulsively to the detriment of the knife (...) Our knives are not designed as rapid deploy weapons or as worry beads but as cutting instruments.(...)
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That's my 2¢ anyway...
 
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