Cobalt AK Prototype and More....

Munk,
That's where I change up and put on a stick tang with a pommel and a double guard of stainless!

Or I have a good piece of Crown stag I been saving...

Or I could go Commando and put on some Micarta...or G10 and sandblast the whole mother!

He He He !

I get carried away sometimes!

Shane
 
munk said:
Steely;

the rentention 'rib' on the scabbard that stops the frog? (that's what's on my Sher Attitude. Good idea for Bowie.

munk

Yep:) That's what I was trying to spit out. Sorry, last day before a 4 day weekend. I'm on verbal autopilot. I like that rib. They put it on the Attitude as well as the kats. I can't see how it would make it any more difficult or expensive to manufacture it into the scabbard for this heavy bowie. If they can't, then there is always my old stand by. Wrap the top of the scabbard in duct tape, wedge it into the frog, and color the silver parts with a black sharpie.

Jake
 
That rib is on my old AK Bowie sheath I got from Rusty's estate. Steely, my own English is too damn ponderous.

Shane, you could always just lob off part of the knob at the end of the handle.

I'm still whittling on this knife. There is one faint high spot on the edge I might tackle, and the metal to the rear of the cho needs smoothing after my removal of metal. It's funny- it just doesn't look quite right.


munk
 
Just in: I had a chance to further 'proof' the blade edge. Carter threw a mess of wood into the pile by the stove. I was moving around a little better since the back strain- so- there was a hard old stump that needed trimming. It had busted in the cold and there were spires of jagged wood that wouldn't clear the stove opening.

The Cleaver did great. It cut the wood with no deformations of any kind. In fact, the 18" X 28" WWll was outclassed for a few tasks; the Cleaver actually did better in controlled cuts with certain limbs. No, it is not as good as a khuk, but it is well above the old AK Bowie in wood chopping.


munk
 
munk said:
OK. This is what I've learned:

knife is 15.5" long
handle is 5 3/4
blades is about 9 1/2"

Weight is 2lbs
The blade is much more striking than some take away from the photo. It is large but not unwieldy or too much.

It outcuts the old AK Bowie. I think it outcuts some lesser weighted khuks as well, though not a khuk of similar weight. I believe it may outcut the new FF and Sher "Attitude" Special. Both of those blades are a half pound lighter at least.

Limbs that are old but still resiliant have a terrible toll on edges. They bend, trap the edge, and give it twisting and multi-directional pushes and pulls. This edge maintained. There is a sweet spot on the blade, I can tell by how the hones slip a little.

Question for you knife experts: would it be advantagious to have a hardened edge nearly the entire length of the blade or not? The tip is softer, though I do not think too soft.

As I sharpened I seemed to get into harder metal beneath surface- something many of you have commented on as well.

It cuts logs. It delimbs. If I didn't like khuks better, this would be MY Knife. As it is, I like it so much it is always around.

Question for you knife Experts: Do you want a 1 1/2" edge on the top of blade at tip in the final production?

Question for Knife Experts: Would you like to see a smaller version made as well, say 12" and slightly narrower?

I am very pleased. Not all the testing is done. Though I have given it some proof bashes, I still want to try some real hard wood to see if I can't roll an edge the way Hollowdweller has said some of his AK Bowies deformed.

I do not think an AK Bowie should deform like that, but it may be a function of the sweet spot production, and may be cured by a longer hardened edge.

Kitchen results are not in yet, but initial performance on apples and other hard fruits and vegies suggest we have a winner. Oh, there are better suited cleavers, but this one will do a job and in some cases may be the best tool. The fullers seem to help. They allow a reduction in friction or pressure as you chop through. Very nice. I've been using a tip to back rocking motion, but other styles will be tried. I think bones smashing is going to be fun.

Question for Knife experts: Would you like to see the non sharp edge to the rear of the cho curved, so that one could rock forward while chopping vegies? We couldn't make it too steep an angle, as your knuckles will impact the cutting plane.

The handle. Much has been written on the AK Bowie handle. Dan Koster specialized in modification of this handle, and has published here at least one step by step instruction on this process. As he says, it is one of the simplest and most productive mods one can make to a HI product. The slabs are easily modified or replaced.

Dan asked me about the handle. I've cut more now and I'll say this; for really chopping the wood, I need to take down the sharp lines between the slab fronts and the sides. This sharp 'edge' hurts a little. I like the idea of the wide slabs because this is a large heavy knife and that amount of flat surface area will help me to maintain the grip and not let the knife twist in my hand.
Some of the grips I've seen for these AK Bowies are smaller diameter and would be fine for this Cleaver in the Kitchen, but not for wood chopping.

This knife represents a dream I've had since first coming to HI forum and I'm grateful to Yangdu for fullfilling it.

I think it's a winner and I like it more than the old AK Bowie because it can do more. It chops better and the flat edge gives you cleaver use. The old AK Bowie was critized as a fighter because of it's weight primarily. IT was and still is competant as many woods jobs. I think this one is better. However, this new AK Cleaver is heavier, and that will change it's carryability for some folks. For me, 2lbs is just the limit, and it's shorter OAL than say an 18" khuk of similar weight makes it easier on the thighs- less leg slap. (though leg slap is not really a problem for me with khuks of 18" or less length)

One final Question for you Knife Experts: would you like to see three fullers instead of two? The left side of this prototype has a flat of metal on the blade hollowed out some, and this has created a partial fuller that is most becoming. Another fuller would add to beauty and lessen the weight of this behemoth, though not enough to lessen it's chopping uses I'd guess. Would raise the price some, though, right?
I will get some picts up- I've got a neighbor who will do the deed.

thank you guys for listening,

munk
Is that all?

GeeeeZ!

iBear
 
MERRY CHRISTMAS KEMO SABE!

WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS..... BE GOOD FOR GOODNESS SAKE!

Ho, Ho, HO!

iBear
 
munk said:
The handle. Much has been written on the AK Bowie handle. Dan Koster specialized in modification of this handle, and has published here at least one step by step instruction on this process. As he says, it is one of the simplest and most productive mods one can make to a HI product. The slabs are easily modified or replaced. munk


Got a link?? I would really like to rehandle my baby Chitlangi
 
Try a search of handles. If your baby chit is not slabbed but one unit, it requires more steps to rehandle. I'll try that one day but you might consider engaging the services of a real knife guy like Dan Koster. To rehandle a chiruwa AK or a AK bowie, drill out the pins holding the slabs. The Chiruwa tang has a shape you will have to follow, the AK Bowie less so. It should be noted you could file the steel to whatver shape suited you. Most people 'decorner' the AK Bowie handle, and shrink it's diameter. I don't like doing that because you need the surface area of a large handle to hold a large knife without it turning in your hand under use. At least, turning in my hand. Maybe some of you are so strong no blade would dare deflect and turn the handle in your palm.
I always thought a hex head or allen head screw with a nut would work good on the AK Bowie, because you could remove the handle and clean underneath. If the AK Cleaver is to be used in the kitchen, this would be a good improvement.

I used to make revolver grips. All I had was sandpaper, steel wool, a jig saw and a drill. If I can do a relatively simple task, so should you all. The AK Bowie would be a great learner job. You can't go wrong. You could substitute whatever handle material you liked; plastic, fine wood, antler.

Dan published a step by step on the AK Bowie at least once. I don't know where it is, try the search.


munk
 
munk said:
Try a search of handles. If your baby chit is not slabbed but one unit, it requires more steps to rehandle. I'll try that one day but you might consider engaging the services of a real knife guy like Dan Koster. To rehandle a chiruwa AK or a AK bowie, drill out the pins holding the slabs. The Chiruwa tang has a shape you will have to follow, the AK Bowie less so. It should be noted you could file the steel to whatver shape suited you. Most people 'decorner' the AK Bowie handle, and shrink it's diameter. I don't like doing that because you need the surface area of a large handle to hold a large knife without it turning in your hand under use. At least, turning in my hand. Maybe some of you are so strong no blade would dare deflect and turn the handle in your palm.
I always thought a hex head or allen head screw with a nut would work good on the AK Bowie, because you could remove the handle and clean underneath. If the AK Cleaver is to be used in the kitchen, this would be a good improvement.

I used to make revolver grips. All I had was sandpaper, steel wool, a jig saw and a drill. If I can do a relatively simple task, so should you all. The AK Bowie would be a great learner job. You can't go wrong. You could substitute whatever handle material you liked; plastic, fine wood, antler.

Dan published a step by step on the AK Bowie at least once. I don't know where it is, try the search.


munk
Deseert Ironwood is good, cheap, and kills chainsaws!

YEAH, I CUT SOME OF IT ONCE.... HARD STUFF!

iBear
 
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