For the Canoe with the light back side, clean up the knife real well (maybe use some alcohol on the bone on that side) to get rid of any grease. Then use a fine-tip black Sharpie marker to fill in the individual jigging marks on the back. Don't go all over with it but get it in the depressions pretty well. Let it dry on there, maybe even give it a second coat. Once it is fully dry, do your best to remove it. Polish with a cloth with a little alcohol or other cleaner (I use Renaissance Wax). Most will come off but some of it will have soaked in and darkened the knife, which is not much different than what they do at the factory.
I have had a couple of the Amber Bone knives that came like that, and after my Sharpie touch-up work they look better than new. I bought several colors of fine tip Sharpies at my local office supply house (they sell separates) and have black, dark brown, orange, and yellow, so I can sort of combine them to achieve the varying colors of the original Amber Bone, or at least close enough for me. On one of mine (Amber Bone Sod Buster Jr) I think my "doctored" side looks better than the factory side that didn't need touching up.
Sounds goofy but once it soaks in and you polish off the excess, it is a permanent dye job. I learned this trick after I bought a knife from a dealer who had put a couple of small sharpie marks on bone of a knife to mark where to attach it to the display, and discovered that they were permanent dots I couldn't remove. So that's how I learned to do my own custom "makeovers" when one comes with some cosmetic defects like that.
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